Im no mechanic but id be amazed if your diff got blown that easily. Also, how the F would they be able to tell that particular wheel is turning 1/2 mph faster than the other 3?
Traction control is locking front left wheel (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LCAdvocate
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Yes, the diff is shot. I locked the diff on the third wheel braking/locking occasion. The diff was not binding or jamming prior to my locking the diff during the third wheel brake/lock episode. I'm thinking that the atrac/vsc or recent Toyota service had something to do with it. I just can't prove it yet. I have never had a single problem or heard a noise out of the front diff until prior to the Toyota service and until the front left wheel started locking.
I don't drive the rig all that often, but I noticed a clanking noise after the Toyota service when I hit washboard type bumps, but I could never find it. Maybe, it is the loose sensor or plug you are talking about. I'll find out soon.
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #23
They get the readings through the computer on the speed of each wheel. Again, I think the atrac/vsc or Toyota service might have caused the diff failure. I'm waiting for the new diagnosis.
All, to who this might help, I recently replaced my ABS/Trac computer from 4 lights on (no buzzer). This issue of wheel lock came not too long after a fresh dealer ABS/Trac and here is what I found
My friend (and yes good real friend) is a service manager at the dealer.. they have a good master mechanic that always services my 100 when in need of major repair, he treats me like family when my 100 comes in as well... I do most service myself and have worked on my 100 a lot (plus many other cars) but take it to them for major issues I can't handle without time to spare
So I checked the wheel speed sensors myself, they looked OK and got the idea from this thread. My 100 was beeping ABS at me with no reaction a few times, and a few times in left turns did the 3 brake slam on front right.. thought maybe yaw sensor also and had it inspected as well with wheel speed sensors (thank you all for posts). It is not my ABS/Trac computer because it is brand new and they checked that as well. Didn't have time to go further that month
2 months of driving before I finally took it in for good the problem would go away for about 500 miles, then all of a sudden try to throw me into a wall.. then it got worse (again didn't have time to take it in or do more work myself).. now it started on right turns, twice in one day after a month no problems, then left turns twice in one day at higher speeds 50-70mph really scary!!
Had it towed to friend at dealer cause I would not drive it after that "my 100 tried to kill me" experience.. but I will never part with my 100 so..
Talked to Christo @ Slee for an opinion via e-mail, did not say a word to my friend at the dealer, turned out both came up with "0 point alignment"
Master mechanic told me 0 point was off by 11. This alignment controls where the wheels are and also handles the adjustments necessary for the speed sensors to correct in the computer when going around corners, traction, etc, please try this before spending a lot of money on replacing expensive parts, or getting a second opinion from another dealer before replacing your diff.. I have 197k on my 100 and this is the first time I've had this done, according to the master mechanic being off by 11 is A LOT
One more side note my steering rack was actually loose as well, I had it on the lift 30k ago and problem did not exist.. I was told front wheels could be shaken by hand and either was a result of the stress from lockups by ABS ripping the rest of life from that part at 197k or it could have possibly contributed to the issue or both, we will never know.
Bottom line from what I can provide, try 0 point alignment and have your steering rack inspected, driving 150% better after and no more issues since! (I will post if I have any issue since then and wanted to put some miles on it before this recommendation) I have now driven at least 5,000 more miles an no more problem
Cheers and minor bump in the road for 197k
My friend (and yes good real friend) is a service manager at the dealer.. they have a good master mechanic that always services my 100 when in need of major repair, he treats me like family when my 100 comes in as well... I do most service myself and have worked on my 100 a lot (plus many other cars) but take it to them for major issues I can't handle without time to spare
So I checked the wheel speed sensors myself, they looked OK and got the idea from this thread. My 100 was beeping ABS at me with no reaction a few times, and a few times in left turns did the 3 brake slam on front right.. thought maybe yaw sensor also and had it inspected as well with wheel speed sensors (thank you all for posts). It is not my ABS/Trac computer because it is brand new and they checked that as well. Didn't have time to go further that month
2 months of driving before I finally took it in for good the problem would go away for about 500 miles, then all of a sudden try to throw me into a wall.. then it got worse (again didn't have time to take it in or do more work myself).. now it started on right turns, twice in one day after a month no problems, then left turns twice in one day at higher speeds 50-70mph really scary!!
Had it towed to friend at dealer cause I would not drive it after that "my 100 tried to kill me" experience.. but I will never part with my 100 so..
Talked to Christo @ Slee for an opinion via e-mail, did not say a word to my friend at the dealer, turned out both came up with "0 point alignment"
Master mechanic told me 0 point was off by 11. This alignment controls where the wheels are and also handles the adjustments necessary for the speed sensors to correct in the computer when going around corners, traction, etc, please try this before spending a lot of money on replacing expensive parts, or getting a second opinion from another dealer before replacing your diff.. I have 197k on my 100 and this is the first time I've had this done, according to the master mechanic being off by 11 is A LOT
One more side note my steering rack was actually loose as well, I had it on the lift 30k ago and problem did not exist.. I was told front wheels could be shaken by hand and either was a result of the stress from lockups by ABS ripping the rest of life from that part at 197k or it could have possibly contributed to the issue or both, we will never know.
Bottom line from what I can provide, try 0 point alignment and have your steering rack inspected, driving 150% better after and no more issues since! (I will post if I have any issue since then and wanted to put some miles on it before this recommendation) I have now driven at least 5,000 more miles an no more problem
Cheers and minor bump in the road for 197k
^ Zero toe?
Well it's happened to ME twice now.
2004 @122,000 miles. Fresh lift. New tires. New alignment. First time it happened on a twisty road on Maui. I thought "maybe I actually did slide?" I was driving rather spirited testing out my new suspension. Either way, my truck was due at the dock for shipping the next day so off she went. Now I'm on the mainland. This time it happened on a twisty road again. Left turn. No where near fast enough to slide. Right front wheel gets brakes. Then frees up. Then brakes. All the while my dash is beeping at me with a picture of a car sliding. I suspected sensor. But after reading this thread, maybe it's my new alignment? I plan to take her in for a new alignment next week anyway because my steering wheel is slightly to left of center and it drives me nuts. I plan to have them check sensors too. Anything else I should tell em to look at??
About 1000 miles ago:
865's, spc ucas, fox 2.0, torsion bar adjust, duratracs 295/65/18 mounted and balanced, alignment.
...via IH8MUD app
2004 @122,000 miles. Fresh lift. New tires. New alignment. First time it happened on a twisty road on Maui. I thought "maybe I actually did slide?" I was driving rather spirited testing out my new suspension. Either way, my truck was due at the dock for shipping the next day so off she went. Now I'm on the mainland. This time it happened on a twisty road again. Left turn. No where near fast enough to slide. Right front wheel gets brakes. Then frees up. Then brakes. All the while my dash is beeping at me with a picture of a car sliding. I suspected sensor. But after reading this thread, maybe it's my new alignment? I plan to take her in for a new alignment next week anyway because my steering wheel is slightly to left of center and it drives me nuts. I plan to have them check sensors too. Anything else I should tell em to look at??
About 1000 miles ago:
865's, spc ucas, fox 2.0, torsion bar adjust, duratracs 295/65/18 mounted and balanced, alignment.
...via IH8MUD app
I am dealing with this issue right now. The rig is at the dealership for diagnostics. First they could not replicate the issue, so I had them drive it on a cloverleaf interchange at 30+mph. The vsc kicked in, alarmed and grabbed, so they saw it in action. They showed the yaw sensor tripping at -18 degrees which is triggering the VSC. Their explanation was that all the mods have made the vehicle too heavy and that this may not be solveable by sensor replacement as the sensors are not throwing fault codes... I am now searching for help here to find a better answer.
I am also dealing with this issue currently. Stock 2000 LC with 175k miles Camelback Toyota has replaced all 4 wheel bearings, new cv boots. They checked steering rack, ball joints, etc and everything else up front and have done an alignment and the issue persists. I’m not getting much from the dealer because there aren’t any error codes. They reached out to Toyota and came up with nothing which is super annoying since this isn’t an isolated issue. Anyway I was just trying to kick start these old threads and see how people’s rigs have faired the last few years and hopefully get some advice before I walk away from this truck or start throwing dart$ and praying it works. For me it happens when climbing up mountain paved highways in curves.
Go with a zero point calibration as your first step, and read Techstream data to really dig in. If you're not throwing codes, then the system is operating as designed (but possibly on a bad data set, like @DarkPharf above).
Same symptoms a few months back. The diagnosis was loose wheel bearings, so I replaced those, ball joints upper and lower, replaced a loose steering rack, etc.—rebuilt the whole front end. Net result: same problems, especially in mountain curves. So I took it in to a really good indie shop here, and sensor resets were all they needed to do. I'm relatively sure they also reset the yaw sensor. They did not need to replace anything (but there was nothing left to replace, hah). It's been perfect since, even when going a little too fast through curves.
Zero point calibration
Anyone know what 2 pins are used on the OBDII to do this reset?
forum.ih8mud.com
Last edited:
Guys please please please get under you rigs and have someone turn your steering left to right and check for the free play in your steering rack (bushings.)
(I believe you’ll need to remove the front skid also)
The bushings are different on each side of the steering rack but they are rubber, a lot of us put polyurethane back in unless you want to buy a new steering rack.
I purchased my truck at 432K, within a couple months of driving it on the freeway I would get vehicle stability control lights or ATRAC beeps every once in a while but this was in a straight line at freeway speeds, After reading online here I got into the truck and the wife helped and turns out the two separate bushings on the driver side of the steering rack were almost completely free to move within their perspective holes due to the oil cooler gasket having been cracked and needed to be replaced after reading online here I got into the truck and the wife helped and turns out the two separate bushings on the driver side of the steering rack were almost completely free to move within their perspective holes due to the oil cooler gasket having been cracked and needed to be replaced.
I did the oil cooler gasket and was able to get a polyurethane bushing kit in my steering rack and all has been well.
Good luck with these, sounds terrible and scary.
Makes me want to hunt for the cleanest low mileage 98-99 I can find.
(I believe you’ll need to remove the front skid also)
The bushings are different on each side of the steering rack but they are rubber, a lot of us put polyurethane back in unless you want to buy a new steering rack.
I purchased my truck at 432K, within a couple months of driving it on the freeway I would get vehicle stability control lights or ATRAC beeps every once in a while but this was in a straight line at freeway speeds, After reading online here I got into the truck and the wife helped and turns out the two separate bushings on the driver side of the steering rack were almost completely free to move within their perspective holes due to the oil cooler gasket having been cracked and needed to be replaced after reading online here I got into the truck and the wife helped and turns out the two separate bushings on the driver side of the steering rack were almost completely free to move within their perspective holes due to the oil cooler gasket having been cracked and needed to be replaced.
I did the oil cooler gasket and was able to get a polyurethane bushing kit in my steering rack and all has been well.
Good luck with these, sounds terrible and scary.
Makes me want to hunt for the cleanest low mileage 98-99 I can find.
