Rubbery Squeak in front left wheel (1 Viewer)

[lowtoe]

Hey folks,

Looking for some advice on what this squeak might be. Here's some of the characteristics of the squeak:

• Only starts after driving for 5+ miles
• Only squeaks from 0-5 mph
• Braking does not affect it
• Turning doesn't really affect it either
• It goes away probably 5 minutes after I park

It seems like a really rubbery squeak so replaced my brakes but it's still there. My wheel bearings also have like < 5k miles on them. Please see the video of the noise below.



Any guesses, diagnostic advice, etc would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[wthomp10]

Well my noise is gone since I replaced the wheel bearing that exploded. The spindle bearing looked good though. Was able to clean everything up and get fresh grease in there now.

 

[2001LC]

It's the job of a mechanic to determine why a failure occurred. So did you figure out, what went wrong and why?

Axle needle bearing is the one I have most difficult looking at it, to make the call. I find looking at axle where it ride, is my best indicator.

 

[lowtoe]

Here's what I've found so far. Anything stick out to you besides how dirty it is?

Another thing to note... my hub came off with the dust cap attached lol. Seems like my snap ring maybe wasn't set on end of the axle correctly?

 

[lowtoe]

I guess if my snap ring wasn't set properly, the axle could have not been all the way in the hub, allowing dirt to get in? Just theorizing

 

[wthomp10]

I guess if my snap ring wasn't set properly, the axle could have not been all the way in the hub, allowing dirt to get in? Just theorizing

Not having the snap ring can lead to a lot of problems. In your case it could allow the cv axle to separate from the backside of the knuckle (where the speed sensor wires are) allowing dirt in possibly. This is also where the spindle bearing is located so definitely check that closely. That requires removing the upper control arm at the ball joint and pulling out the axle to inspect.

The snap ring is supposed to be replaced each time and check with a feeler Guage to make sure you have enough space. I guess if it's too tight it could be tensioned(?) and spring off.

Attached is a picture of the axle removed to see how dirt could get in there if the snap ring is gone allowing the axle to go in and out

 

[lowtoe]

 

[2001LC]

Here's what I've found so far. Anything stick out to you besides how dirty it is?

Another thing to note... my hub came off with the dust cap attached lol. Seems like my snap ring maybe wasn't set on end of the axle correctly?

View attachment 3758615

View attachment 3758616

Reusing snap ring, result in it expanding losing it grip on axle. Loose fit around axle groove, may result in axle groove damage (rounding). We need a nice sharp right angle in groove, to secure snap ring.

"Clean groove of axle and spindle where needle bearing rides, and inspect closer."

I can't see (grease and wrong angle) groove in picture well. But does look like rounded/damaged groove.

Excessive hub flange to snap ring gap, may result in leak between FDS & knuckle seals. Which can damage needle bearing and increase wear of brass bushing. Wear of brass bushing increases snap ring to hub flange gap. Once we exceed a hub flange gap of .19mm with a 2.8mm (thick) snap ring, we need to replace either brass bushing and or axle. Note: Large wheel bearing and where it butts to spindle/knuckle, can also increase gap.
Black grease, may indicate dirty/contamination.

Axle scoring where needle bearing rides. Is best clue, needle bearing needs replacing

 

[lowtoe]

tyvm for your reply. My CV groove might be bad; I'll double check. I have replacement CV's but just haven't put them in yet.

It does seem like I have some scoring on the spindle now that you point that out. I bought the SLEE spindle greasing tool, and I'm going to use that to see if it fixes the noise first. From my understanding, the greaser will provide grease to the needle bearing, although I should probably replace it like you said.

Question though - Is the "needle bearing" you're referring to the same thing as the "spindle bearing"?

 

[2001LC]

tyvm for your reply. My CV groove might be bad; I'll double check. I have replacement CV's but just haven't put them in yet.

It does seem like I have some scoring on the spindle now that you point that out. I bought the SLEE spindle greasing tool, and I'm going to use that to see if it fixes the noise first. From my understanding, the greaser will provide grease to the needle bearing, although I should probably replace it like you said.

Question though - Is the "needle bearing" you're referring to the same thing as the "spindle bearing"?

Yes! The needle bearing (AKA: axle bearing, spindle bearing).

If needle bearing, making sound now, lubing will not likely stop sound. One issue with using the Slee spindle lube tool. Is if, any grim on axle or inside spindle, it's forced into needle bearing and brass bushing. I find very often when: grease cap reused, aftermarket FDS and or wide snap ring to hub flange gap. Water and or dirt gets in.

FWIW: I remove knuckles very often and restore them. If I am R&R (remove & replace) FDS (AKA: CV's). I also replace the frt. diff. side seals. If any ball joint or their boots, need R&R, this is the time to service then also. Also the knuckle gets a new seal. That seal, OEM FDS seal (comes with), and snap ring gap of less than .20mm along with new grease cap. Makes axle, spindle, wheel bearings, watertight again. BTW: I almost always replace hub flange and cone washers, when I R&R FDS.

 

[2001LC]

 

[lowtoe]

Thanks so much for your comprehensive reply! Given your reply, I will probably end up changing the spindle bearing/brass bushing at some point. We'll see how it does when I get the hub all put back together.

Speaking of which, I think I didn't get the c-clip set in properly last time, resulting in the CV not being fully seated, and letting in water/dust. THIS time, I tried for probably over 2 hours to get the CV in the hub far enough to get the clip set in the groove properly, and it's fighting me. I can almost get it in, but the CV needs to go into the hub about 1mm more. I just can't get it to.

I know you mentioned that the gap should be "less than .20mm", so I imagine it's OK to have 0.0mm gap? If I get my c-clip installed, it will be tight!

 

[Eyedaho]

Thanks so much for your comprehensive reply! Given your reply, I will probably end up changing the spindle bearing/brass bushing at some point. We'll see how it does when I get the hub all put back together.

Speaking of which, I think I didn't get the c-clip set in properly last time, resulting in the CV not being fully seated, and letting in water/dust. THIS time, I tried for probably over 2 hours to get the CV in the hub far enough to get the clip set in the groove properly, and it's fighting me. I can almost get it in, but the CV needs to go into the hub about 1mm more. I just can't get it to.

I know you mentioned that the gap should be "less than .20mm", so I imagine it's OK to have 0.0mm gap? If I get my c-clip installed, it will be tight!

What method are you using to pull your FDS/CV tight? There are several write-ups about it on here, but you typically need to thread a bolt into the end of the shaft and either pull on it or construct a little jacking plate to pull it out. Especially with fresh grease, it will take a bit of force.

 

[2001LC]

Do not tap in a snap ring. Doing so will make it to tight (no gap). That said: Better tight (no gap) then loose (wide gap). When hub flange to snap ring gap 0,00mm, we'd then need to tap into axle groove. In will wear down brass bushing until at least .001mm gap. Not the worst thing, but does wipe off all grease except that in the groove of brass bushing.
Here's to tight a gap, after 1K miles. It changes the color of grease as brass wear dust gets in grease.

High & tight spots on brass, wear shiny.

We can see where axle butt, butts brass bushing VVV was rubbing, and wearing brass shiny in spots ^^^.
That axle needle bearing turnout to be bad, in this one. I doubt from brass wear, just old and under services
We see scoring (scoring indicates bad bearing) on axle where needle bearing rides, in just 2K miles.

Few reason snap ring will not fit on.

• Aftermarket parts, like FDS. Sometimes have fitment issue(s).
• Wrong thickness snap ring used. Note: I almost always use 1 size larger (2.4mm) than factory install (2.2mm). Yesturday. I had one that need the thickest snap ring (2.8Mm) and still had a gap of 0.13mm. Any more gap, it would have needed parts replacing. Number one wear part, being brass bushing.
• Grease in back side on knuckle, between brass bushing and axle of FDS. This is why I pull axle of FDS out with press/puller (seen in video below). One can also drive with loose snap ring on, around the block. Which helps settle grease, than pull axle out tight with 8x1.25 bolt threaded in end of axle and install new snap ring of proper thickness. Doing with tires on the ground (no jack) and FDS is in natural stance. Rather than being pull back, when tires off ground and LCA is in full droup.

Snap ring install, with household clamp tool makeshift axle puller.

Other ways/tools to pull axle tight against brass bushing setleing grease, to install hub flange snap ring. M8x1.25 bolt with vise grips as handle to pull on axle. That snap ring would need to go up two size, and still have a gap of 0.16mm.

 

[lowtoe]

Thanks again for your response.

I have OEM parts all around, so I think my problem is the grease I pumped into there.

I put it all back together with 0.00m gap, drove it around the block, and saw your latest post. I put a bolt in the middle of the axle as shown in your video, and wrenched on it with a crowbar, but the CV didn't move at all. Guess I'll try again later after I've driven it some more?

 

[wthomp10]

I purchased an axle pulling tool here on MUD For Sale - 100 Series CV Axle Puller Tool - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-cv-axle-puller-tool.1227012/

This is a great thread too! A lot of amazing information being shared.

 

[lowtoe]

Update: The squeak that started this whole thread is gone! But I still have a chirp somewhere, and I'll be needing to replace my CV's soon (I have new OEM ones, but haven't mustered up the courage to do them yet).

So again, thanks to all that commented. You've all been a HUGE help

 

[2001LC]

Update: The squeak that started this whole thread is gone! But I still have a chirp somewhere, and I'll be needing to replace my CV's soon (I have new OEM ones, but haven't mustered up the courage to do them yet).

So again, thanks to all that commented. You've all been a HUGE help

Stop by if you like. I'll give it a lite inspection and test drive. Warning: I find more than anyone

 

[lowtoe]

Stop by if you like. I'll give it a lite inspection and test drive. Warning: I find more than anyone

honestly I would, but I probably don't live near you. I live in CO but I'm 7 hours from Denver