I have a 77 FJ-40 that has a JTO header and new exhaust all the way back. The problem is it has an exhaust leak near the motor. The previous owner had receipts for the exhaust, but had not driven it much before I bought it. What is the best way to find the exact culprit ie. header gasket, doughnut gasket, cracked header, etc????
Tracking down an exhaust leak?
- Thread starter blemarr
- Start date
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Soap, water, spray bottle.
Downey
SILVER Star
Really does not matter what the brand name is, all Landcruiser Headers leak at the top flange if not sealed properly (biggest problem), or if sealed properly too many years ago!!! Here's how you do it right: Use one of Downey's 30% thicker gaskets, get a can of paint-on Copper Coat gasket adhesive, paint all four surfaces (head, header, both sides of gasket). Make sure no portion of Header is contacting/ rubbing aluminum intake manifold (binding), then tighten nuts until you think your wrench is going to break!!! the reason this aggressive method is needed is because Toyota got a little timid on supplying enough mounting studs (i.e. distance between studs is too far apart).
still not following you.... engine needs to run to create exhaust, to move air, to create air bubbles, to find leak.. but heck, those pipes, headers, block, heat up in like seconds.. especially if you are moving around spraying and watching, spraying and watching.... no way
Yes way!
Spray on cold exhaust where you think the leak is with engine stopped. Run motor for 5-10 seconds. Stop motor. Look for big bubble. Worked for me many times to both find leaks and verify that I did not have a leak. I agree this technique works best further down the exhaust but it should work on the headers if you dont run the motor for very long.
Yes way!
Spray on cold exhaust where you think the leak is with engine stopped. Run motor for 5-10 seconds. Stop motor. Look for big bubble. Worked for me many times to both find leaks and verify that I did not have a leak. I agree this technique works best further down the exhaust but it should work on the headers if you dont run the motor for very long.
okay.. I suppose if you are going do the spray some water, run and start the engine, run back and look, and run back and shut off, and run back and spray again, and repeat 17 more times.... yeah, maybe then it would work - but damn, that is a lot of moving and shaking
I say, simply burn some incense and take it all around the suspected areas.... exiting exhaust will blow the slow burning incense smoke the moment it hits some leak. this technique requires no running.
Maybe if you take off your birkenstocks and put on some proper work boots it would be easier, Hippie!!!
Maybe if you take off your birkenstocks and put on some proper work boots it would be easier, Hippie!!!
funny you say that... if you knew who you were talking to... you would eat those words.....
(just ask the guys I ran and raced against in Gyor Hungary this year at the Duathlon World Championships...)
That'd be tough with the engine fan blowing your incense everywhere.
You should be able to tell where the leak is by listening to it enough. Is there 2 gaskets between the head and header? If not, that's probably where your leak is. Most straight 6 headers are pretty long and you should be able to determine by ear if it is coming from the header or the collector gasket...
Use a piece of tube about 1/2" round one end in your ear and run the other end around all areas where you think the leak is, you will be able to hear it very clear. You wouldn't miss it once you get the tube on the leaking spot. Actually It will get clearer as you move the tube closer to the leak. Some people also use big scrrewdrivers, but that will be hard in this case.
vic
vic
Should be able to see black soot type signs where the leak is... All those cheap headers from JTO need to be resurfaced as soon as you remove them from the box, before install.... very poor workman ship.......
You can also pull the plug wires a cylinder at a time and run the engine. The exhaust leak will change in intensity when you kill the offending cylinder.
