toyota fipg

[jeremy56]

Just pulled my bottom oilpan 20 miles after fresh rebuild to find the fipg didn't harden in several places and had a leaky oil pan.
I used the toyota black. Now I'm very nervous about the other places it's applied like the rear main seal, timing cover etc.
Is there something I could have done wrong aside from not cleaning properly?
Several places on the oil pan seal were still like black grease not sticky or hard.
Not using Toyota when I put it back on that's for damn sure.

 

[White Stripe]

Use ultra Grey, awesome stuff. I've noticed that about the Toyota silicone, kinda weird but I've never had any leaks as a result of using it.

 

[93yotasr5]

Yeah the grey stuff is the way to go. Costs a lot less as well!!!

 

[shadowless]

I use fipg every day at work. Never had this problem. Did you leave the drain plug out for ventilation as it sets? And how long did you wait for it to dry before filling with oil? Fipg will immediately start drying as long as it's not freezing out unless there is no air circulation. If possible I like to wait atleast a couple hours before filling with oil when it comes to pans. Preferably over night.

Fipg is my first choice when it comes to sealant on engine stuff. Next choice would be honda bond gray stuff.

 

[malteserunner]

Permatex 85144. The Right Stuff, is what I use with good results.

 

[dirtrick]

FIPG is a super good product. It's all in the application, this stuff is used by toyo mechs around the world and that's because it works. If it's used right I guess.

 

[bajaphile]

Get the Right Stuff 1 minute grey by Permatex. Super easy to use and have had great results with it.

 

[jeremy56]

I did wait overnight and I did it on the stand during rebuild. I did not leave the plug out but I was in the middle of rebuild so there was air until head was on and I added oil several days later actually. It's was probably two weeks and it was still greasy in spots.

 

[CRSHR]

Might have got a bad tube. Properly applied FIPG will never leak. It really is some of the best stuff out there IMO. Toyota techs use this stuff to do water pumps on 2.4 engines. From the time they pop the hood till they are filling the coolant back up can be as little as 30 minutes. And that is a pressurized system. What you do need is a clean oil free surface. Any contaminates can cause it not to adhere properly.

 

[jeremy56]

I hope I had some contaminants in a spot or too and it wasn't a bad tube. Time will tell if other areas leak after rebuild.
I just finished replacing the pan what a pita.
I read about the bottlejack trick with a search. Sure wish I read that sooner, worked like a charm. I used the Aisin fipg from Napa also black, probably the same toyota labeled stuff. Here's to hoping.

 

[shadowless]

I hope I had some contaminants in a spot or too and it wasn't a bad tube. Time will tell if other areas leak after rebuild.
I just finished replacing the pan what a pita.
I read about the bottlejack trick with a search. Sure wish I read that sooner, worked like a charm. I used the Aisin fipg from Napa also black, probably the same toyota labeled stuff. Here's to hoping.

If you still got the tube. Squirt some out and see if it dries. Or if the tip hasn't already dried on the tube. If it did, chances are it was the application and not the fipg. The only bad tubes of actual toyota fipg I have seen were extremely old ones and they had hardened in the tube.

Like the previous poster said. I have done many waterpumps, front covers etc and when your on a time budget on a waterpump that seals with fipg it still manages to seal even with coolant wanting to roll onto the sealing surface. And then buttoned everything back up. And by the time its ready to fill and bleed out its good to go.

 

[jeremy56]

You can see the shiny black in numerous spots didn't Harden

 

[120mm]

I really cannot see the pic you posted, due to glare.

IME, Toyota FIPG flows out extremely well and tacks up almost immediately.

It "dries" to an elastic state very well, and doesn't "harden" per se, as hardening leads to failure.

I switched from Permatex to FIPG due to a side by side comparison last year.

 

[shadowless]

So are the shiney spots by your hand uncured? And by uncured I mean did it track black everywhere on your hands and on anything else you didnt want it to? You said greasey? Not usually a choice of word to describe FIPG. If it's only what is in the recessed groove of the pan, then it is possible to stay wet for a while as it gets sealed in by both pressure from bolting down the pan and sealant around it sealing, kinda like how only the tip of the tube will dry everything inside sealed from air stays wet and it takes quite a bit of time for even what is in the applicator tip to dry before it gets to the metal tube.

Honestly if I had to guess, chances are it was leaking due to contamination/poor application or a pan that was not flat which is a common thing on toyota FIPG sealed oil pans that had to be pryed off for removal and not hammered back to being flat, seen this a lot with cheap 22re rebuilds where care was not taken during removal or reassembly

 

[120mm]

Honestly if I had to guess, chances are it was leaking due to contamination/poor application or a pan that was not flat which is a common thing on toyota FIPG sealed oil pans that had to be pryed off for removal and not hammered back to being flat, seen this a lot with cheap 22re rebuilds where care was not taken during removal or reassembly

Provided that Toyota helpfully installed two pry points to help remove the oil pan, there is no excuse for ruining them, imo.

 

[jeremy56]

Shiny spots were not as bad as "track black everywhere" but we're tacky wet and definitely not cured after a couple weeks. I guess I will chalk it up to air issue as stated.
I did take the pan off on the stand where it was easy and didn't pry or bang it up.
I did find a few tool marks and hit it with 220 grit. If it leaks again maybe that's the case but definitely is not too bad.
There were pry points on the #1 pan but not this one. Pretty uniform all around....