toyota e locker

[the truck doctor]

My freind is selling me a rearend from a 95 tacoma witch is elock equip. $40 got the hook up, what I need to know is will the thrid member fit right in or will I have to mod mine for the locker? 89 hilux. also is there a web site with wiring schem?

 

[tntoyota]

I would go Downey to lock it


they have a pull & twist-2-lock cable



You could always go light switch for it that would be cool and easyer

 

[Marc P]

I will be installing one in the front of my axle swapped 95 4runner. You need to modify the housing....Here are some really good links-


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229719
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=357137
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212065
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=288708

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Here's another write up.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

 

[the truck doctor]

e locker

thanks this is exactly what i was looking for

 

[KLF]

My advice, based on many installs (I have one in both axles of my truck, and I took all the photos in the above link):

* Screw that Downey crap. In fact, screw Downey. Their stuff is mostly junk. I've ordered from them before, never again.

* There are TONS of threads and websites out on the net that tell you how to do it. Yes, you will have to mod your axle housing to get the locker to install.

* There are wiring diagrams out there too. Some use relays, some don't. I prefer the relay method, but I ain't skeered of no electrics.

* DON'T use the gasket as a template to drill the stud holes. It's not reliable, too flimsy. Cut the notch, drop the diff in, then use an oversized drillbit to mark the hole locations. Then pull the diff, drill the holes to the proper tap size, and tap them.

* Don't bother with the longer studs for the actuator. I always use long bolts. Much easier.

 

[Cube Dweller]

My advice, based on many installs (I have one in both axles of my truck, and I took all the photos in the above link):

* Screw that Downey crap. In fact, screw Downey. Their stuff is mostly junk. I've ordered from them before, never again.

* There are TONS of threads and websites out on the net that tell you how to do it. Yes, you will have to mod your axle housing to get the locker to install.

* There are wiring diagrams out there too. Some use relays, some don't. I prefer the relay method, but I ain't skeered of no electrics.

* DON'T use the gasket as a template to drill the stud holes. It's not reliable, too flimsy. Cut the notch, drop the diff in, then use an oversized drillbit to mark the hole locations. Then pull the diff, drill the holes to the proper tap size, and tap them.

* Don't bother with the longer studs for the actuator. I always use long bolts. Much easier.

Use relays. Instead of an oversized drillbit, go to harbor freight or Enco on the web and buy a set of transfer punches to transfer the hole.

Not a difficult mod, especially if you've got mad skills with a bastard file.

 

[tntoyota]

My advice, based on many installs (I have one in both axles of my truck, and I took all the photos in the above link):

* Screw that Downey ****. In fact, screw Downey. Their stuff is mostly junk. I've ordered from them before, never again

Not beeing a smarty here but do you have experience with the cable locker, I need to know, I like the cave man technology stuff. S.A's and such...


I think it's easyer to find the problem when you only got 3 moving parts.


I think everyone on here has said some thing bad about EVERY after market supplyer.

 

[swamprunner]

2nd the **** downey. Their cable sucks. Its a pain in the ass. I've seen it on a buddy's truck and don't like it. The elec motor is very reliable and very simple once you take the time to study it. I also have elockers front and rear and 2nd the relay set up. You can build the electric setup to control them for under $20. Some of the schematics I've seen on the electronics are way overboard...to many bells and whistles. All you need is a relay, switch, and indicator light.

 

[KLF]

2nd the **** downey. Their cable sucks. Its a pain in the ass.

There ya go. I saw one once too, I wished I had taken a picture of that flimsy POS. What a joke.

Ya, I went overboard on the electrics part, but it came out really nice.

Relay box lives under the shelf in the back, behind the pass seat.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Art!:

Yeah, maybe a little over done.....

 

[green40]

Art!:

Yeah, maybe a little over done.....

Yea, everything Ken does is like that!
Wish I had 1/4 of his skills when it comes to fabbing things!

 

[toyrunner]

A friend had the Downey cable for his locker thinking it would be more reliable.
It really made things worse trying to get it to lock/unlock with all the binding it did.
I have the carterlock setup and it is flawless!
Helps when Mike is a friend, too!!

 

[hobiesbestfriend]

Nice Box!
Is Downey the only company that makes a cable kit? I too want to eventually get e-lockers, but prefer the cable set-up. (I suppose this would negate the "e" part of e-locker). I have, ever since I heard of "Ox-Lockers", Just wish they came for toys. Does anyone have a booty-fab method of installing a cable setup? Maybe install a couple of extra E-Brake levers where the armrest is? That's what I was thinking anyway.

 

[tntoyota]

Nice Box!
Is Downey the only company that makes a cable kit? I too want to eventually get e-lockers, but prefer the cable set-up. (I suppose this would negate the "e" part of e-locker). I have, ever since I heard of "Ox-Lockers", Just wish they came for toys. Does anyone have a booty-fab method of installing a cable setup? Maybe install a couple of extra E-Brake levers where the armrest is? That's what I was thinking anyway.

I know you know that the "ox-locker's" lock mechinism is in the diff cover and thus Toyota cannot.


Were in the same boat, systems can fail and definitly, the way I see it the # of systems does not help.


So I guess this is gonna be a thread to watch.

 

[foxfab]

Showoff!!!

Those that arent as anal would have it look like this:

There ya go. I saw one once too, I wished I had taken a picture of that flimsy POS. What a joke.

Ya, I went overboard on the electrics part, but it came out really nice.

Relay box lives under the shelf in the back, behind the pass seat.

 

[extremetoy1]

* Don't bother with the longer studs for the actuator. I always use long bolts. Much easier.

the studs are used for a reason, much better clamping/holding power. it isnt that hard to put studs in... peace of mind if anything but they use studs in the rear end for a reason, your not smarter than toyota engineers

 

[foxfab]

Ha, I cut off IFS all the time because some dumbass Toyota engineer thinks that IFS is better than a solid axle. I use studs, but grade 8 bolts will work fine too.

your not smarter than toyota engineers

 

[KLF]

the studs are used for a reason, much better clamping/holding power. it isnt that hard to put studs in... peace of mind if anything but they use studs in the rear end for a reason, your not smarter than toyota engineers

Oh that's just pure BS.

You're gonna try to tell me that a stud with X ft-lbs on it can provide more "clamping power" than a standard bolt with the same X ft-lbs on it? That just doesn't make sense to me.

Besides, the studs that hold the diff in just don't see a lot of load. A standard diff has 10 of them, the e-locker has 11. The difference between 9 studs and 2 bolts, and 11 studs is insignificant. The most common failure here is the threads pull out of the axle housing from getting smacked on rocks or being over-torqued.

The real reason I prefer bolts is for installing and removing the diff. I started with the studs when I did my first one (front diff). It was a pain to put the long studs in, then have to slide the diff over them and get everything lined up, that thing is heavy. I prefer to just have the short studs in place, stab the diff into the housing without the actuator installed. I stuff the axles in, check that the locker is working OK manually, then I install the actuator motor. Much easier to put the actuator on without the studs in the way, you can "feel" the gear teeth better, get it aligned on that little dowel, etc.

Toyota engineers are pretty smart, but they've also done some REALLY STUPID things on their vehicles. Ever seen the 4WD engagement system in an FJ62? WTF were they thinking?

 

[extremetoy1]

Oh that's just pure BS.

You're gonna try to tell me that a stud with X ft-lbs on it can provide more "clamping power" than a standard bolt with the same X ft-lbs on it? That just doesn't make sense to me.

their is no "BS" about it


here I will use an example to show you in easy terms- why do race car builders use studs in the head instead of bolts? why dont you bolt your hubs on instead of using studs with cone washers?

studs do provide more clamping power, you think this was a "mistake" made by Toyota?
search the internet for stud/bolt comparisons (I dont need to do this to prove a point) studs do provide more clamping/holding force period. just because it is a "little harder" or a "pain" doesnt mean that the extra effort is a bad thing- many things on Toyotas are "a pain"

I dont beleive for the application that it would hurt to use a bolt or 2 in place of a stud (my clearanced diffs use a bolt in place of lowest stud, so I can take it out to drain the gear lube) just saying that the extra effort to put a stud in isnt all that bad to do once or twice.