toyota e locker

[KLF]

Well, I don't want to take this thread too far off track, maybe when I get some time I'll do some reading.

I DO have ARP head studs in my 22RE. They DO provide more clamping force on the HG, some of that is because they are torqued a little higher than the stock bolts, and part of it is because the E of the steel they use is MUCH higher (stiffer materials). So, with more torque and a stiffer material = more clamping force. At least that's how I see it.

Of course I don't think the studs are a "mistake". They are very useful, in this case they are used to precisely index the diff housing into the axle housing, so it is perfectly aligned and stays that way. You also couldn't use the infamous cone washers on the front hubs with bolts, they need a stud to work correctly. A lot of people curse those cone washers, but they are one of the reasons why AISIN hubs are the best, far better than Warns.

Now, one of the places where I have always wondered about is where the front spindle bolts to the knuckle. Why didn't they use studs here? Surely this is a high-load application, so why aren't there studs here? And, not having studs makes it a pain to re-assemble everything when you service the knuckle. Trail-Mart sells a stud kit, so it's not like they didn't have room for them to be used. Odd...

I also have both of my axles shaved, no drain plugs. I tried using bolts for the bottom 2 holes, but the rocks bashed them too much, couldn't get a wrench on them. I took some spare studs and welded the nuts on, the weld material is much more durable, no troubles yet.

 

[bkg]

Well, I don't want to take this thread too far off track, maybe when I get some time I'll do some reading.

I DO have ARP head studs in my 22RE. They DO provide more clamping force on the HG, some of that is because they are torqued a little higher than the stock bolts, and part of it is because the E of the steel they use is MUCH higher (stiffer materials). So, with more torque and a stiffer material = more clamping force. At least that's how I see it.

Of course I don't think the studs are a "mistake". They are very useful, in this case they are used to precisely index the diff housing into the axle housing, so it is perfectly aligned and stays that way. You also couldn't use the infamous cone washers on the front hubs with bolts, they need a stud to work correctly. A lot of people curse those cone washers, but they are one of the reasons why AISIN hubs are the best, far better than Warns.

Now, one of the places where I have always wondered about is where the front spindle bolts to the knuckle. Why didn't they use studs here? Surely this is a high-load application, so why aren't there studs here? And, not having studs makes it a pain to re-assemble everything when you service the knuckle. Trail-Mart sells a stud kit, so it's not like they didn't have room for them to be used. Odd...

I also have both of my axles shaved, no drain plugs. I tried using bolts for the bottom 2 holes, but the rocks bashed them too much, couldn't get a wrench on them. I took some spare studs and welded the nuts on, the weld material is much more durable, no troubles yet.

In this case, KLF is correct re: studs.

 

[swamprunner]

Bottom line is you guys arguing over and insignifigant point. Its two studs...it won't make difference. Most people will never wheel there truck hard enough for the rear diff to fail. The easist way to get the diff to go in with studs is to drill the holes out a 1/16 bigger or so on the 3rd. Usually slides on much easiser...unless you really botched your housing up when drilliing tapping the holes.

So back to the topic. KLF's setup is one of the cleanest I've seen. Unless you work in an electonics story theres some money and time involved in his setup.

I simply use two cheap bosch relays and a spdt momentary switch. I managed to score 100ft of marine grade 7 conductor cable for $20...So I'll have enough wire for the rest of my elocker setups. I even splurged on the heat shrink connectors and came out under $20...but I also pirated my nice sealed switches from a boat I was working on.

 

[KLF]

Oh, I believe we agree on the "insignificant" part. I'm just not too keen on opening up the holes any larger than the factory made them, but sometimes ya just gotta.

And thanks for the positive comments. Yes, I put a lot of time and a few $$ into that relay box. I used relays from McMaster-Carr that have little LEDs in them so I can actually see when each is energized as they do their thing. It's actually pretty cool.

Since I'm showing off, here's some more pics:

Cables exiting the back of the cab:

Those are waterproof compression fittings that I found in the electrical section at Lowes. Had to use a conduit punch to make the holes in the back of the cab, then these slipped right on, tighten down and seal up nicely. No leaks! I used 7-conductor trailer cable to run out to the lockers.

My switches and lights:

Kinda hard to see them, but I have both "Locked" and "Unlocked" lights. Plus I have a main power switch on the side of the relay box that lets me kill power to the entire system. I try to exercise them every few weeks.

 

[swamprunner]

I've only had to open up the holes on one 3rd. Got in a big hurry and didn't missed the mark on 2 of the holes. My switches on both my trucks reside in the factory knocks outs for the clutch cancel switch and rear defroster. The switches I used just happend to be an exact fit. I only use a locked light b/c I don't want a light on when its unlocked. I've seen people with 3 lights the 3rd being and indicator that the motor is in transition. The coolest switch I've seen was a factory one from south africa that some guy had. It had a picture of and axle that lit up when it was locking and the changed to another color when it was locked....blah blah blah

 

[extremetoy1]

Its two studs....

Hey KLF, I think he's calling us names now!!!!




Thanks for the compliment Swamprunner!!