Toyota 1-ton rearends

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Mar 4, 2011
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I recently bought a beautiful 86 turbo 4x4 from a guy who had gone through the truck and almost completed his original intention for the project. He selected the 6 lug Toyota 1-ton rear axle, I'm guessing because of the full float design, for building the truck into a trail rig. Unfortunately at this point the truck just has duals on it, but I desperately want a single rear tire/wheel on the truck. I'm probably not going big, maybe 35's or something like that. I've been searching all over the internet for solutions to the unique lug pattern of these axles ( 6 x 7.25 ) and it leaves me with almost no options that I can find for wheel selection. Is there an easier way here? Is having the 1-ton rearend on the truck more hassle than it's worth?
 
Yes, it's more hassle than it's worth... If you are only going to 35's then you have nothing to worry about with a standard 8 inch rear end. Makre sure the gears are set up properly, and run with it. It's not uncommon for people to run 42's and bigger on stock rear axles... :cheers:

Welcome to Mud! :flipoff2: We want pics!
 
That's what I thought. I guess I need to start hunting for a good replacement axle then. Will get pics up soon!
 
exactly.
i been runnin welded diffs on all my trucks and guys i work and wheel with are locked or spooled. what im sayin is they are tough, aint never gonna hurt a yota rear axle. unless your a crazy mofo an slap a V8 in front of it.
 
Only thing you have to worry about with the standard stock axles is overloading them. Otherwise they are very tough. The standard axle is actually a 1 ton axle, just don't overload it, and it wasn't designed for dual wheels or wheel spacers. They came out with the 6 lug full floating dually axle to address the problems that happened when RV makers overloaded the standard axles. Note: Using wheel spacers or shallower back spacing on the wheels also creates the same issues that were causing the axle breaking problems encountered by the RV makers.
 
One possible solution is to cut the center section out of the one ton wheel and weld it into the outersection of a regular wheel. You need to be good with a torch/plasma cutter and have a method of getting that center section welded "true" into the new outer wheel section. I will be moving the center sections on my buddys crawler to change the back spacing. Not rocket science. You just need patience and a way to make that new set up completely "true". It can be less "true" if it is a dedicated trail rig.
 
Much better to just get a standard axle from a junk yard. That way he has the same lug pattern in front and rear.
 
Please pardon the dumb question, but I am very new to this...but what trucks would I be able to find a good compatible axle off of? I'm assuming any 2nd gen truck's axle would work, but how about a Tacoma axle? Are there specific axles I should avoid?
 
"Early" (79-85) rear axles were 55" wide, in '86 with the IFS they made the axle 58" it stayed that way till '96 with the change to the Tacoma not sure on width, but it's wider still.

So any truck/4Runner 79-89 or Truck 90-95 (90+ 4Runners had coil sprung rear axles..) should bolt in. I think the Tacoma axle requires moving spring perches.

Ideally you will want an axle to match your front end, so 86+. :cheers:
 
I have 2 early rear mini truck axles sitting in my yard...They will probably get scrapped sometime...

I've seen a few full floating Cruiser axles.... most were overpaid for and shipped from Australia... While it is a valid solution, it's not cost effective for running 35's....
 
Thanks guys; I think I'm gonna pursue a solution in the direction of different full float hubs. It'd be a real shame to change out a perfectly good axle...
 
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