Towing with a 62

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Joined
Dec 30, 2007
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Location
N.Las Vegas
Was wondering how many of you out there tow regularly with your 62's. I have a 18ft bass boat approx 2600#, will the 62 tow this comfortably. I have another rig to tow with but blew second gear out and will have to use the 62 until more funding comes in. Also long term should I put lower gearing in the 62 it is stock with 31" tires. Thanks for any input
 
Interested in hearing suggestions too. I'll share what I do know.

I'm pretty sure the 62 is rated to tow 3500 lbs.

The tranny is going to be the big concern. Keeping it cool is paramount for the A440F auto, if the ATF temp light comes on, pull over and let it cool (the manual gets into this). Switching to synthetic ATF is supposed to drop the operating temp (not sure, but think on order of 10-20 degrees F). If you do overheat it, you are going to want to do a full flush ASAP to keep things from going downhill from there.

The first step to prepping the truck to tow is to add an aux. cooler infront of your rad, downstream (by ATF flow) of the stock cooler in the radiator. The torque convertor generates a lot of heat when it is not locked up (i.e. any time it is in 1-3, and below ~50 mph in OD), so if towing requires slower speeds and significant downshifting for power, you NEED an aux. cooler. From what I have heard, the circulation through the cooling loop cuts down dramatically when the convertor locks up (or maybe just when in OD?), but since it will also produce less heat then, it may balance out.

There is an outfit in Australia (Wholesale Automatics) that offers an upgraded valvebody (and torque convertor, and full rebuilt tranny too) that improves performance, cooler loop flow, and optionally, convertor lock-up in 3rd (giving better performance and less heat generation on hill climbs etc.). If you are looking at using the truck as a tow rig regularly, this might be a good idea.

If you curious about gearing for towing, swapping on smaller tires will give the same effect as a gearing change. 31"s may not be bad, I've got 235/75s on mine (I think that's a 29" or 30"). That said, some of the 80 series guys have raved about the towing performance they get out of the 3FE, A440F combo after a gear change. If you are curious just because of the larger tires and how it will behave generally, 31"s aren't a big change, lots run 33"s with the stock gearing.

Hope this helps a bit.
 
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I am planning on running synthetic atf as far as a tranny cooler I was wondering how a cooler set up under the body with an electric fan might do. I don't want to block the radiator any more than absolutely necessary since I live in Las Vegas where the temp soars. This will not be my tow everything vehicle but i do like the low gearing for coming up the boat ramp. As far as highway speed how much would 4.56 gears change my current RPMs at 65 (bout as fast as I take her)
 
Current RPM @ 65 x 4.56/4.11 (or 4.10, I can never remember) = new RPM at 65

Should raise RPMs about 11% (about 250 RPM at highway speed)

A cooler underneath would be interesting, and might work fine (I don't know if you would even need a fan, or if you would get enough air circulation ambiently), but it would be an exposed weakness if you take your truck off-road, or run over trash on the highway for that matter. I think you would be better off with it in front of the rad for all it would do. My 2 cents.
 
Yea carnage would be an issue. I don't wheel it hard but stock it does sit low. Guess I could build an open style skid plate off the side of frame and then will have an excuse to break out the welder more often (I scare the wife with it)
 
Yea carnage would be an issue. I don't wheel it hard but stock it does sit low. Guess I could build an open style skid plate off the side of frame and then will have an excuse to break out the welder more often (I scare the wife with it)

Sounds kind of cool, I would enjoy seeing a thread on that :)
 
I think I will try it but you guys will have to give me some time I have to go out of town for a few weeks and then get settle in our new house (will have garage space now). But I will see what I can do and try to post the pics. Thanks for the info earlier RockDoc
 
It will tow that boat. I pull the neighbors 16' deep v boat. It isn't quick, but handles the weight fine when stopping and in side windy conditions on the freeway.

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It is really easy to put the cooler in front where the others are. I used a Flex-a-lite one from summit. Not the most efficient design, but it works and I haven't ever had the light come on.
 
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I think I will try it but you guys will have to give me some time I have to go out of town for a few weeks and then get settle in our new house (will have garage space now). But I will see what I can do and try to post the pics. Thanks for the info earlier RockDoc

If speedy progress on projects is a necessity on mud, I would have been banned already. ;) I am not very quick on the follow through most of the time.

I am currently looking into the feasibility of a project that will require the transport of something BIG from the SW states, and 2 parking spaces, one of which needs to be in a garage. I live in an apartment right now :doh: This isn't going to happen very fast, if at all.
 
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My next project is going to be the installation of a aux cooler so I've been paying a lot of attention to that subject and doing a little extra reading on it. Seems like I read that the cooler ought to be upstream from the radiator to prevent over-cooling the transmission fluid especially in cold weather.
 
If possible rig your fj62 to go into 2low. That would be the ramp gear. It seems I read that 62s can do this, I've got my 60 rigged for 2low and use it for creeping around when 4low would cause problems ie: high traction areas where I need to go very slow...
 
Seems like I read that the cooler ought to be upstream from the radiator to prevent over-cooling the transmission fluid especially in cold weather.

Thinking about it, I suspect you are right. I assumed that you would want to maximize the cooling, but I suppose if you put the new cooler upstream, the stock cooler will act as a temp stabilizer. Hmm, wonder what an "optimum" temp for the ATF is?
 
By putting the cooler upstream you are talking about going into the aux cooler and then into the radiator portion correct? Just trying to make sure I get it right. And yes coming up the boat ramp I will lock into 4Low to get up the steep ramps since I don't have to turn just straight up, but most I will just drop the tranny in low and take it easy. I know the manual tells us to turn on the 4wd but was wondering if i could just keep the hubs unlocked and ez up the ramp?
 
By putting the cooler upstream you are talking about going into the aux cooler and then into the radiator portion correct? Just trying to make sure I get it right. And yes coming up the boat ramp I will lock into 4Low to get up the steep ramps since I don't have to turn just straight up, but most I will just drop the tranny in low and take it easy. I know the manual tells us to turn on the 4wd but was wondering if i could just keep the hubs unlocked and ez up the ramp?

The transmission fluid should flow from the transmission to the stock radiator cooler (left side of rad) and out of the rad on the right side, then to the aux cooler and back to the transmission.

I don't see a problem with running the transfer case with the hubs unlocked. Your front diff will turn, but the hubs won't be locked over the splines, and won't transfer any power to the front wheel. I usually do this when backing a trailer for any sort of long distance.

You will be good to go.
 
I don't think you can over cool the ATF. My transmission shifts fine when its zero degrees and I know that it doesn't instantly warm up.

Mine shifts pretty stiff at first when it is -30 C. ;) Mind you, when it is that cold, there isn't much coolant flow through the rad anyway...
 
Mine shifts pretty stiff at first when it is -30 C. ;) Mind you, when it is that cold, there isn't much coolant flow through the rad anyway...



One thing you can do to eliminate some of that and get the tranny fluid up to temp is while you are warming up the rig in the morning, shift tranny into neutral or drive for a couple of min and that will circulate the fluid and get it up to temp
 
One thing you can do to eliminate some of that and get the tranny fluid up to temp is while you are warming up the rig in the morning, shift tranny into neutral or drive for a couple of min and that will circulate the fluid and get it up to temp

I usually don't "warm up" for more than 30 secs, waste of fuel, and more fuel will seep past the rings. I just take it light for the first couple minutes driving. The tranny isn't a problem, I was just being sarcastic. It shifts stiff for a couple blocks, then it is fine.
 

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