How do these other IFS Toyotas like Tundras, Tacomas and FJC's get more front travel? Isn't it with this type of UCA?
Total Chaos vs Slee UCA's
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Nope, they get more travel from longer arms. You can get a bit more on the 100 with a longer shock but you soon run out of CV angle. Shock fit is also an issue. The long arm kits use longer CV's so even with stock shock placement they can pick up a lot of travel without over flexing the CV due to the change in geometry. For more on that check out Total Chaos or similar, they have some seriously drool worthy parts for the desert racer.
The big deal with the Slee UCA is the expected durability improvement from an open ball (TBD but sealed can't hurt), but more important is the additional adjustment available at the ball joint that adds range to the factory adjustments located at the frame allowing for better geometry while lifted. This adjustability gives more control over how the wheel is located and should provide more caster. I still need a closer look but the Slee arms appeared to have a better inboard bushing design than the other aftermarket UCA's as well.
The big deal with the Slee UCA is the expected durability improvement from an open ball (TBD but sealed can't hurt), but more important is the additional adjustment available at the ball joint that adds range to the factory adjustments located at the frame allowing for better geometry while lifted. This adjustability gives more control over how the wheel is located and should provide more caster. I still need a closer look but the Slee arms appeared to have a better inboard bushing design than the other aftermarket UCA's as well.
Yup. Those aren't cheap $3000. Seems like something like that would work on ours since a lot of people are running 1.5" spacers already. The 2" Tacoma kits add 4" to the front rack width. I guess there just isn't demand for it here.
^^^ K-V-W, I sent you a PM reply to help keep this thread on topic. Started it here and as usual I got long winded...
The shock is the limit, not the UCA. Get extended travel Radflos and you'll get about that.
That's what I thought. The Total Chaos UCAs advertise additional droop.
Klaus I actually misread your post. You'll pick up about 1" or so of droop with the long Radflos, not lift. IMO 1-1/2" in suspension lift (compensated by a Slee Diff Drop) is about all that she can handle before it negatively impacts handling. Body lift if additional height is desired for tire clearance.
hoser
SILVER Star
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r2m
Richard
I have the Uniball UCA's from Just Diff's with a diff drop, 2" suspension lift and 1.75" body lift.
No problems here except a little squeaking if I don't stay on top of the urethane mounts with some lube.
No problems here except a little squeaking if I don't stay on top of the urethane mounts with some lube.
The inner bushings appear to be of the same suffering design which certainly keeps the price point to what most will tolerate. However if there is enough caster correction designed into the arm geometry maybe the arm bushings will end up, on average, more 'right angled' to the retention/adjuster bolts and not pinch the urethane bushings that typically result in accelerated wear of same.
And hopefully the mfg has provided a solid interface, arm to ball joint mount, along with correct and exact taper. A friend had similar issues with his 4R UCAs...albeit a few years ago.
Wonder what the range/angle of articulation is for the ball? And I don't see a grease zirk. With essentially a non-sealed ball joint keeping it greased will be inconvenient...without a zirk fitting.
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Lets hope the caster design does keep them better centered in the factory adjustment slots. When I first saw them on the green 100 it appeared they may have had a hard shell of steel over the inboards to interface with the slotted mounts but in the current product pictures it does not appear that way. I guess I was wrong about that. That is still a big factor in my book, I like the uniballs just fine, my issues are with the inboard designs on the market.
Hopefully as experience is gained, there will be some guidelines for the alignment shops. I assume most of these will NOT be adjusted to optimum by most of the shops out there without a lot of suggestions from the customers or some guidelines from Slee.
hoser
SILVER Star
Yes, I think I would try and keep the inner bushings as undistorted as possible, making initial caster and camber adjustments via the ball joint. Could be a PITA. Then test for range of motion.
Would most 100's with say a 2" lift, all have a similar balljoint orientation for the optimum caster /camber?
or is there significant variation from vehicle to vehicle?
If thats the case, we could set the balljoint at install, and tell the shop to only touch the internals?
It says they use OE style balljoints. The OEM ones do not have a grease zerk either. The $25 ebay replacement ones do. Also, it looks like the ball joint bolts into the arm. So instead of pressing in a new joint or replacing the entire arm, you could just bolt in a new $25 ball joint.
^ my bet: its not a $25 balljoint
edit: went to the source...add $100 and you're almost there; each.
edit: went to the source...add $100 and you're almost there; each.
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I bet your right, in time it may be simple knowledge to set the ball joints close and have the shop simply fine tune the inner joints. However, I bet we'll find different ideals for different heights, tire sizes, and usage.
For ref. a pair of 1" uni-balls is in the neighborhood of $140
I just checked the SPC website and although they don't have the 100-Series arms listed yet they do state the balljoints are sealed for their 200-Series and Toyota light truck sets. I would assume the 100-Series arms get the sealed balljoint.
AimCOtaco: Unfortunately I am all too familiar with the cost of spherical bearings for the aftermarket front UCAs.
AimCOtaco: Unfortunately I am all too familiar with the cost of spherical bearings for the aftermarket front UCAs.
Well, at least they're shinny right?
I imagine the sealed steel on steel BJ's on the SPC's will outlast the teflon lined uni-balls and will therefore be cheaper to keep up in the long run but that is just a guess (but factory type steel on steel do often last a long long time). Time will tell.
Are the type of bushes you were expecting/hoping for like these ?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-L..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item46153c79a8&_uhb=1
http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro-parts/SPF2142K
They are $400 AU per set which is part of the reason i was looking at aftermarket arms.
I wonder if these would suit these SPC arms aswell?
^^^ Yup, along those lines, I think those are to fit OE upper arms and probably don't fit the aftermarket UCA's but who knows.
