Tools for blown CV or front diff?

[mechanixhorseman]

So it doesn't seem to be any secret that the 100's weakness (esp. 98 - 99s) is the front diff and CV's. I'm going to be taking a trip thats going to take me about 50 miles from the nearest road and I want to make sure I'm not forgetting anything.

What tools are necessary to drop the front drive shaft and/or pull the front drive flanges. I've pulled the flanges before and as far as I remember, all that was required was a BFH, lug wrench, and sockets for the flange itself. I don't recall if I needed the snap-ring pliers or not.

I've never removed the drive shaft before and I'll be bringing the service manual, but as we all know, sometimes the service manual suggests tools that always realistically get the job done.

If something breaks and I'm not able to get myself out of there, it would be a hell of a tow truck bill.

 

[pfran42]

Here is what I carry for this:

• duck-billed snap-ring pliers Craftsman Item# 00947386000 Mfr. Model# 47386
• torque wrench
• 7mm nut driver (for securing CV boot clamps)
• FSM on USB
• FSM (critical sections on paper)
• metric socket set
• metric box-end wrenches
• brass drift (3/4")
• nitrate rubber gloves (wear them during repair then use them as a dust cover over flange)
• long zip-ties (secure rubber gloves to hub flange)
• hammer
• bearing grease (replace lost grease around flange and for securing inboard snap-ring right before you jam it into the diff)
• pitman arm pullers (for top and bottom knuckles)
• roll of wire (in case I have to tie up damaged axle till I can get to a spot to pull it)
• duct tape (in case I have to tie up damaged axle till I can get to a spot to pull it)
• ratchet straps (to hold things like brake calipers out of the way while pulling axle. Also for ensuring that lower control arm does not snap downward with too much force when using arm pullers)
• wheel chocks
• McMaster-Carr CV bands (one small, one large for trail repair of snapped OEM clamp)
• OEM CV boots (one small, one large. Can also be cut to be used as a makeshift "patch" on a small tear to the CV boot)
• Bicycle tube patch kit (for securing makeshift patch to boot with small tear)
• Rags
• pre-packaged alcohol swabs (for cleaning up area to be "patched" on a small tear to CV boot)
• OEM snap rings (one of every size to ensure proper snugness after putting flange back on)
• OEM axle-to-diff oil seal
• OEM crush washer for front diff (in the event that I have to add diff fluid after making the repair)
• diff oil (in case repair is required in such a fashion that causes a substantial amount of diff fluid to leak from diff opening)
• OEM front axle (spare)
• OEM CV grease (2 tubes) Toyota CV boot kit is Part #0443860021
• plastic syringe (for injecting grease into the CV boot in the event I snap a CV band and the boot pops out of it's channel)
• OEM hub flange gasket - Part #4342260070
• OEM hub flange studs
• cotter pins (2) (for steering knuckles since they are a non-reusable part)
• Blue Lock-Tite
• Hi-Lift
• paint pen - white (for making matchmarks on the front propeller shaft in case it has to be pulled in order to limp home with the center diff engaged)
• bored out hub flange Part #4342160030 (can be used in trail-side repair allowing axle to freely rotate in flange but still acting in a manner as to keep dirt and particles out)
• LED head lamp
• large lawn bags (great for stowing drive shafts and other mucky parts that must ride back in-cabin)
• rubber mallet (getting OEM dust cover back on with out denting it all up)
• PB Blaster (in the event that the hub flange nuts are seized)

The motto here is "Carry on" rather than "Limp home".

 

[rusty_tlc]

All you need is a basic set of metric sockets, and wrenches. Actually only two sizes but I don't recall what they are. It would take about three minutes to figure it out. You also need a set of snap ring pliers and a medium size hammer and a brass drift.

That's it.

If you want to get fancy you could wrap the open hub in duct tape, but since you just blew your differential you will have the whole front end out anyway and why not replace the bearings and seals while you have it apart to repair the diff?

The procedure is simple.
Drop the belly and and remove the front drive line.

The picture below shows how to remove the drive flange.

• Take off the grease cap and snap ring.
• loosen the six nuts until they are almost off but still protect the threads on the studs.
• Use the brass drift and hammer to tap the studs until the cone washers pop out.
• Remove the nuts, washers, flange and gasket.

Lock the center diff and drive home.

We did this in central Nevada and drove home over 200 miles in 2WD.

 

[pfran42]

Rusty's version is for the minimalist. I guess it is all about how much crap you really want to carry!

My list is the OCD version, but it will be very nice to have the next time I snap an axle miles from anywhere and need 4WD to get back out again after the repair.

 

[mechanixhorseman]

Thanks guys.

Thats a hell of a list pfran, but I'm sure it doesn't look like that much in a tool box.

 

[2000UZJ]

Thats a hell of a list pfran, but I'm sure it doesn't look like that much in a tool box.

Here is one of Paul's "pfran recovery kits"

 

[wildsmith]

Here is what I carry for this:

I don't see OEM hub flange nuts, washers and cone washers? A real OCD would have some of those

 

[plirky]

Here is one of Paul's "pfran recovery kits"

too funny!

 

[mechanixhorseman]

Maybe I'll just tow one of these behind me.

 

[pfran42]

Stop it guys....You are ruining my FAQ-worthy list...I guess now I'll have to create a 93 step tire changing thread.

 

[rusty_tlc]

...
What tools are necessary to drop the front drive shaft and/or pull the front drive flanges. .....

Rusty's version is for the minimalist. I guess it is all about how much crap you really want to carry!

My list is the OCD version, but it will be very nice to have the next time I snap an axle miles from anywhere and need 4WD to get back out again after the repair.

I just answered the question. Your list is very nice, I'm sure your Mom is proud of you.


Actually I carry considerably more stuff than I listed, but the OP wanted to know what was necessary. I was thinking about an extra set of CV axles but I just don't wheel the 100 that hard. And now that I've already grenaded the front diff and up graded to an ARB there isn't that much I would break doing what I do with that truck.


Saying that means I just cursed myself and I will break something bad next time I drive HWY 50 and am alone out in the middle of BFE.

 

[pfran42]

I just answered the question. Your list is very nice, I'm sure your Mom is proud of you.


Actually I carry considerably more stuff than I listed, but the OP wanted to know what was necessary. I was thinking about an extra set of CV axles but I just don't wheel the 100 that hard. And now that I've already grenaded the front diff and up graded to an ARB there isn't that much I would break doing what I do with that truck.


Saying that means I just cursed myself and I will break something bad next time I drive HWY 50 and am alone out in the middle of BFE.

I think the value here is that most will make their own list somewhere in between mine and yours.

...Now I gotta get back to ordering OEM cone washers....

 

[rusty_tlc]

I think the value here is that most will make their own list somewhere in between mine and yours.

...Now I gotta get back to ordering OEM cone washers....

Agreed.

BTW spare cone washers are good parts to get from Pick and Pull, I think every Toyota 4WD ever made uses the same size for the hubs/drive flanges. It's not like they wear out.

 

[mechanixhorseman]

I definitely appreciate both lists. One shows the bare minimum of what you need to get the job done and the other is very comprehensive and contains some great ideas. Thanks again guys.

 

[RobRed]

Here is one of Paul's "pfran recovery kits"

Find the picture of the large kit.