Too many ring terminals on battery - already have a switch - suggestions?

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Hey Y’all,

I’ve got 4 ring terminals on my positive terminal on my battery. Aside from looking terrible, I know this is not the best way to wire stuff, but I’m not sure what the better alternatives are.

I have the following 4 devices connected directly to the battery:
- auxbeam switch panel: 1 ring terminal
- midland radio: 1 ring terminal
- HID ballasts: 2 ring terminals (1 per headlight)

My other devices are cleanly wired to the switch, and I love it. The radio recommends installing directly to the battery, and I like this because it also gives me the option to use the radio with the car off.

Is there a device I can get and mount elsewhere that I could run 1 terminal to the battery, and then these other devices to it?

I’m at a loss - I can’t find any options from Google for the lights other than wiring them direct to the battery.

Thanks! Really appreciate any input. I’m not even sure what to search for on Google, and I think that’s why I’m having trouble finding good results.
 

e9999

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Search for "busbar" or "terminal block" or -better- "fuse block", something like that?
 
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Search for "busbar" or "terminal block" or -better- "fuse block", something like that?
Stupid question incoming: that is different than the fuse block I have for my switch panel, yeah? It would be a separate device that installs in the engine bay, but would wire direct to the battery?

Also, thank you for chiming in!
 
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Ok, so I’m reading about installing a busbar, and want to make sure that I’ve got things fused properly.

The winch I have (badlands 12000 lb) says it will pull 448 amps at max draw.

Is it better to put a fuse, say 450 - 500 amps, between the battery and busbar, or should I fuse each line between busbar and accessory?

I think the latter, but not sure. Basically I want to avoid having sketchy wire and maximize safety over convenient install.
 

sdnative

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Browse the BlueSea website for fuse blocks and busbars (there are other manufacturers, but BlueSea is top notch)


You want to minimize the length of unfused wire, and protect from accidental short circuit (i.e. dropping a wrench).

The fuse is there to protect the wire. So a large fuse between the battery and busbar will not protect the small wire typically used for accessories. Best to fuse the individual circuits.
 
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Browse the BlueSea website for fuse blocks and busbars (there are other manufacturers, but BlueSea is top notch)


You want to minimize the length of unfused wire, and protect from accidental short circuit (i.e. dropping a wrench).

The fuse is there to protect the wire. So a large fuse between the battery and busbar will not protect the small wire typically used for accessories. Best to fuse the individual circuits.

Dope, TY! Figure I’ll find a spot on the engine bay wall right near the battery to keep the line from battery to busbar under 8” if possible.

The switch fuse box has a great circuit break that will run between it and the busbar. The HID ballast cables and GMRS cable have in-line fuses. So I’ll just get a beefy fuse for the winch cable.

Appreciate the advice!
 
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Another thing to make sure of is that your heavy cable running to your busbar is of sufficient gauge to run all the things you plan to with a comfortable bit of extra for the future. I would recommend running everything but the winch off your busbar, then connecting the winch directly to the battery through a 500 amp ANL fuse. That way you can use a busbar and cabling that would be more appropriately sized to the other accessories you are running without having to get some monster in there. (Like a 100A-150A rather than a 600+A)
 
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Another thing to make sure of is that your heavy cable running to your busbar is of sufficient gauge to run all the things you plan to with a comfortable bit of extra for the future. I would recommend running everything but the winch off your busbar, then connecting the winch directly to the battery through a 500 amp ANL fuse. That way you can use a busbar and cabling that would be more appropriately sized to the other accessories you are running without having to get some monster in there. (Like a 100A-150A rather than a 600+A)
Thank you for the suggestion! The more I read online about this last night, the more that seems to be the recommended setup.

It seems like a lot of folks don’t even leave the winch hooked up to the battery. They only connect it when it’s time to winch, and that doesn’t seem like a bad idea. I can probably make some sort of clip to hold the wire in place out of the way when not in use.
 

sdnative

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It seems like a lot of folks don’t even leave the winch hooked up to the battery. They only connect it when it’s time to winch, and that doesn’t seem like a bad idea. I can probably make some sort of clip to hold the wire in place out of the way when not in use.

I don't have a winch and don't know how most people do it, but you may consider a battery disconnect switch. Just be aware of the continuous and intermittent current limitations.

 
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I have the same issue. I installed military style battery terminals that have a large bolt for attaching cables. Now I can use large ring terminals and have a solid connection.


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e9999

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I also have my winch disconnected from the battery when not actively used. Main reason is "Roof Taco" preemption. Yes, highly unlikely. Yes, highly disturbing notion... :)
 
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A high continuous current rated battery switch would work for the winch, or you could just remove the ANL fuse from its holder and store it in a safe place when not using the winch.

Factory Toyota winches use a large solenoid/relay to provide power to the solenoid pack on the winch when the controller is plugged in.
 

John McVicker

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For my 8274 winch disconnect, I use & recommend Anderson Power Poles. I use PP180.

Open the hood & 30 seconds later you are connected. When you’re finished winching pull it apart & you are disconnected again.

953218BB-4F65-46F1-A93F-AC50024D6383.jpeg
 
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Seems like a PP180 wouldn't be rated for the kind of current a normal 8-12k winch could pull. Even an SB350 is on the small side for a hard pull.
 

John McVicker

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^^^

I sometimes have felt the same way. However, I have never had an issue and I’ve done many, many, many pulls. Long hard ones. Using 2.0 gauge wire from the battery to the winch. Have also upgraded to Albright contactors in place of the old style solenoids. Have this set up on both my 60 & 40…both with 8274’s.
 

e9999

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yes, the PP180 tops up at 350A per specs, I believe, at typical ambient temperatures. Of course, it's all a matter of how long and hard the pull is. Well, easy enough to see if it got too warm.
 

John McVicker

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My last pull was a tough one. Snatch block, double line. Ruined a USA made 20k strap. My WAG is I was easily pulling 16k. Had no issues and nothing overheated.
 

on the rocks

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If not too late and you don't want to adjust your wiring, SLEE offers this: Not a fan here but I have seen it and it looks better than stacking a bunch of lugs on the battery post connections. If you want to have the option to control electronics from inside the cab look at SwitchPro, ARB and a few others, these tend to limit the feeds to 30 amps so you would need a disconnect or breaker for the winch if not hardwired. These will be step up from a terminal post and also possible use some of the same posts for connectivity. all about how deep the pockets are and where you want to ultimately get to in the long run.
 
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Wow! This thread got way more traffic than I anticipated, and I have a lot of options to explore and research this weekend.

Love the wealth of knowledge this forum offers.

Will look into the different connector options for the winch and report back with the route I take.

Thank you to everyone for weighing in and getting me pointed in good directions!
 

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