Todays wrenching (2 Viewers)

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New ARB rear bumper

The stock rear bumper on my FJC has taken a beating over the past year. We were rear ended a little over a year ago, then Carnage took a whack at one of the side pieces in 2008 and some idiot at work backed under the other side piece. It was finally time to replace it after the insurance company caved in on the accident. I had Tedd at Cruiser Solutions order the ARB rear bumper so that I had a matching set and Ernie had him paint the side pieces to match my front bumper and make look it almost stock.

Sheri
ARB Bumper.jpg
 
Sporin said:
nice! so those side pieces are beefy metal now? very stock looking, I like it
Click to expand...

Yep, the bumper is all one piece. In the ARB catalog they have it painted the same color as my bumper but I didn't want to stress all the time that the paint would get scratched so we decided to just go with having the corner pieces done. Tedd does a fantastic job and it came out great. He has a video on the website showing the before and after of the paint job.
 
Thanks Johnny!! If we make it to CMCC this year we will be bringing the FJC.

Happy Thanksgiving!!

Sheri
 
Redid the oil seals on the output shafts on my xfer case. put new brake shoes on the parking brake, cleaned it up, regreased moving parts, and of course the drum won't slide back on the brake set up. I adjusted everything, pulled the cable, removed the cable, all sorts of combinations and it won't slide on.

Anyone local I could use a hand in figuring out what I'm missing cuz I'm stumped.
 
Just a couple of thoughts, did you check the seal to make sure it fit on the drum before installing it?
Is the speedo drive gear seated all the way on the output shaft? You may need to pull the cable housing out of the output housing to verify this one.
 
Issue is that the brake shoes are spread too wide for the drum to slide on. Even with the adjuster at it's lowest setting they hit the drum and won't allow it to slide on fully.they are the correct shoes and I have them on the right way. It seems like the whole mechanism isn't centered, that the distance from bottom edge of the mechanism to the edge of the drums is lower than the top edge.
 
there may be a little rusted ridge on the outside of the drum that keeps it from going on. If there is take a file or die grinder to it.
 
The shoes are out past the edge of the drum so even if I somehow got it on then the parking brake would be permanently on
 
Had the same problem, can't remember what I did. Your welcome!
 
Was wondering if you guys could help me with this:

I have a 1974 fj40 with a GM HEI distributor, I purchased it that way, I am having issues with it, This is the second time I was on the road going about 45mph, I get a big backfire and it dies.
The first time I replaced the coil and that did it, This time I replaced the coil, condenser, rotor etc. But this time nothing.
I have no spark, there is power to the coil.

Both times this happened on a 45min ride to the wheelin spot, about a 2 hour woods run, then on the ride home it happens.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Tom
 
IIRC, there are only four parts in the HEI. The coil, condenser, rotor, and...
the ignition module. If there is power and you've replaced the other 3,....Assuming that it's actually in the ignition, I'm going to guess bad ignition module.

However, before you do that...have you checked the fuel filter? It is the most common cause of cars dying suddenly at high speed.
 
A friend suggested replacing the pick up, it's under the rotor, Have to remove the distributor to get it out, Everything else is new so I guess this will do it ,,,,,,,,,right?
 
wetsanded the new paint on saturday did the whole truck (or so i thought took me a couple hours next morning when the truck had dried from it's post wetsanding bath I saw that I really had just started lots of orange peel :)
so I have been able to get out to the garage all week sanding Ihave another 8-9 hours of sanding in and have one fender and side 90% with 1000 and 1500 with some spots here and there that need some more 1000. I see this as a long project :) fun though learning lots and it is starting to look smooth.
I got the liquid ice finish polish/compound system from Eastwoodco once the sanding is done. I thought my grinder sander was variable speed and its not so now I am in the market for a buffer. everyone recommends the dewalt unit but It being christmass time I can't really justify 200 bucks I have air do people like air buffers over electric ones ?? if so any recommendations on an air buffer?
Jaosn
 
I used an electric one which worked fine until the motor started to smoke
 
Krazyfj said:
Was wondering if you guys could help me with this:

I have a 1974 fj40 with a GM HEI distributor, I purchased it that way, I am having issues with it, This is the second time I was on the road going about 45mph, I get a big backfire and it dies.
The first time I replaced the coil and that did it, This time I replaced the coil, condenser, rotor etc. But this time nothing.
I have no spark, there is power to the coil.

Both times this happened on a 45min ride to the wheelin spot, about a 2 hour woods run, then on the ride home it happens.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Tom
Click to expand...

Just a note on this....my GM HEI dizzy in my 55 died out on the highway because of the gear on the end of it. The teeth at the bottom shaft of the dizzy isn't exactly the same as a toyota one (standard vs metric.) The teeth on mine ground down until it completely sheared off while going 70 mph on Rte 95. I bought a new one with a toyota specific gear on the end. Not sure if this is your problem but the gear on the end might be slipping. I had a nice pile of shaved metal in my oil pan when I checked inside.
 
Ya it looks like there is some wear on the gear, probably the GM gear, Will call Toyota Monday and try to order a new one.
 
Does anyone have an opinion on this:

I replaced my corroded oil cooler with a used one from $OR that seemed to be in great shape. It went in fine and the whole thing was as painless as wrenching in the cold/dirt can be.

Now however, the oil pressure gauge is running between the top of the range and the "H". Do I need to worry about this? Did I get sent a clogged cooler?

Thanks,

Harry
 
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