To Smog or Not to Smog? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Sep 20, 2005
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149
Location
Monticello, UT
 
 
I am the proud new owner of a 1978 all original, except for the rust, 44,000 original miles Fj-40. I live in an area where we have no emission tests and will not, unless they come up for some type of emmisions equipment for livestock? My previous cruiser 74 was de-smoged and ran very well and very strong. My questions is, what are some of the benifits and drawbacks of removing the smog equipment? The cruiser seems very underpowered and maybe a tune up and a few adjustments that way would fix that. Thank you!
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2002
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15,133
Location
OC, CA
 
 
 
 
If it is original, I would leave it as original cruisers are worth more. My personal opinion is that it doesn't have much of an effect on performance (compared to removing it) and it may run worse without it, especially popping in the exhaust manifold under deceleration.
 

PabloCruise

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Jun 3, 2004
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19,596
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Northern Colorado
 
 
 
Welcome to MUD!!!

Sounds like beaut! Pics?

Does it have all the original emissions equipment?

I live in area that does have to test for emissions. My buddy has been looking for a Cruiser for months (he just found one yesterday!), and he passed on ones that didn't have emissions components. I know you are not thinking of selling now, but I think if you de-smog, you have effectively removed people in air quality areas as potential customers. You have lowered the value of your Cruiser.

I have 1978 that I do have to test to license. I could test it and get collector plates and never test it again, but I really don't see why people get so tweaked about testing. I keep mine tuned and it passes just fine.

If I were you, I would get the emisions manual and tune it. The only deviation from the manual I would make is running ignition more advanced than the 7 degrees before TDC.

It may be running poorly because vac hoses are not hooked up, or hooked up improperly, or are leaking. If the system is hooked up as it should be, and it is tuned, I am guessing it will run better...

You can also send the carb and dizzy out for a rebuild. Jim C. or Mark will do you right, set your timing curve, build carb for your altitude specs... They can also advice as to what mods you can make that are reversible...

I don't really know what you want to do with this '78, but unmolested Cruisers are getting more rare. If you may sell it in the future, I'd keep the mods mild...

Good Luck!
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2005
Messages
149
Location
Monticello, UT
 
 
Thanks for the info Pablo and Pin Head. Pablo what degree advance are you running on your cruiser? That is the first thing I am going to check, after that points, and hoses. Any info on updating the distributor to a more efficient model? Thanks. I will get pics in a few days!
 

PabloCruise

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Jun 3, 2004
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19,596
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Northern Colorado
 
 
 
Can't wait for the pics.

I don't have a fancy light so I advanced until the BB was at the bottom of the window - I think that is about 14 degrees? I believe the span between the pointer and the bottom of the window is ~ 7 degrees.

I also live at ~5000 feet above sea level, so I can run more advance. What is your elevation?

The '78 is actually a pretty cool dizzy - fully electronic - no points! The only upgrade would be going to the big cap dizzy out of a FJ60. But that requires swapping out your side cover off the block. I'd keep her stock. Jim Chenoweth (FJ40Jim) can re-curve the advance for you and rebuild the bushings.

What is the build date on yours? You may have the fine spline pinions, even more sought after...

The 1978 FJ40 is a desireable model year - take good care of it!
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
4,495
I don't have a 40, but I'll chime in on the smog/desmog stuff. I had the good intention of fixing the smog system on my 2f. bought many new vsv's and other expensive crap, before I took a long hard look at the existing smog system. well long story short when I dove in a started to disassemble the part circled in red, it crumbled like a dusty skeleton in an Indiana Jones movie. It was almost a domino effect, every part connected to that crumbled.... and so on and so on....

take a long look at your existing parts before you make a decision. take it apart clean the parts off and see exactly how much crap will need to be replaced.
 
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PabloCruise

SILVER Star
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Jun 3, 2004
Messages
19,596
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Northern Colorado
 
 
 
Oh man! You touched the 25710 Valve?!?

You should never touch the 25710 Valve! They are booby-trapped. You can touch anything else on your Cruiser EXCEPT the 25710 Valve...
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2005
Messages
149
Location
Monticello, UT
 
 
The build date is May 1978, and that 25710 valve looks pretty nasty! I think that thing will be a paper wait before I try screwing with that! I am at 7,200 feet so I am quite high, literally! I am glad to hear the it does not have points, pain in the butt! What is the best way to contact Jim, he seams like a good man to know? What do you mean by fine spline pinions? I am trying to learn all I can, thank you!
 

PabloCruise

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
19,596
Location
Northern Colorado
 
 
 
Fine spline pinions...

If you were built in May, I bet you have them.

My 1978 40 was built in Sept 1977, and I do not have them.

Big pic is my pinion - coarse. Little pic is fine spline.

Fine spline is much stronger pinion, bigger cross section, harder to break...

7200 feet, you should be good for a little more initial advance. One rule of thumb I have is 1 degree of advance for each 1000 feet above sea level (an addition to the 7 degrees initial)
coarse.jpg
fine spline.jpg
 

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