To bodylift or not?

[Phil]

G'day all. I'm after all the info. I can get on bodylifting a auto., live axle 100(105). I've been quoted $1400(aus) installed but my truck budget is a bit low at the moment. Currently I have the rear towbar and bumper off as I'm about to start fabricating a rear tyre carrier and slider setup but have come to point where I need to decide if I should put a bodylift in first so I don't have to modify the barwork later. All info and advice would be appreciated. Cheers Phil.

 

[calamaridog]

Suspension lift is always better than body lift. I don't think anyone makes a BL kit here in the states for the 100 series vehicles and I don't know anyone who runs a BL on their 100 series.

If you are going to do it, then you would certainly wan't to do it before the fabrication - you have that right.

Do you already have suspension lift? If so, what size tires are you trying to clear?

As far as the install goes, it seem like you would be able to do it yourself if you can fabricate stuff? The BL should be relatively easy.

 

[NMuzj100]

The Greenlanders were using body lifts to clear their huge glacier tires but I haven't heard of anybody else doing it. Body lift is cheap if you just need a little lift but you'll do much better with a suspension lift.

 

[Phil]

Thanks for the thoughts. I have already installed a 6 inch suspension lift and am running 33s at the moment. Ultimately I would like 38s without having to cut fenders(hopefully my budget might permit this when these tyres are up for renewal). Its hard to prioritize the mods that I have to do to get to the final product without wasting money and time and not redoing mods. I know this delema is one that we all face once we start to modify(unless your loaded) but I'm hoping that the more money I can save on mistakes will mean that I can get to the finished product quicker.

 

[calamaridog]

Well, from my perspective you need to consider how high the center of gravity will end up if you do the body lift and 6" of lift. I assume you can clear 35's as is with no rubbing? And you can't get around regearing with those 38's.

So what does a 105 with 6" of lift look like (hint hint)

 

[Phil]

It probably is time to say "this is high enough" but I've got the bug.

The 33s were rubbing on the inner guard on the rear so I made some bumpstop extensions but these have reduced my up travel by 4 inches.(looks like offset rims are now on the shopping list)

On regearing; thats why I've only gone to 33s at the moment as I thought any bigger would need regearing but the fund limit took a bit of a whack with the suspension lift. Would I be able to get away with 35s without regearing and what would be the best ratios for bigger tyres (the fuel consumption is bad enough now)

I'm fairly new to the cyber world so I'll try to borrow a mates digital camera in the next few days and get some shots to post.

Keep the ideas coming boys. Its good to hear other peoples opinions. I just wish that I had the money to try them all out.

 

[UltraFJ40]

Phil,

I like the idea of going with a bodylift. I don't think I'd go any higher than 2-3" though. Cheap easy and with this IFS, you're limited with the suspension. I'd like to run 36- 38's on my 100, but I have to finish my other project first.

CDog:
That cut up 100(AP's) was running 38's with the original gearing. The truck was plenty responsive for me. But then again I'm never in a hurry to get to my destination. This truck had weld in spacers and it reacted very close to a non BL Cruiser. Of course it pitched and rolled more when cornering, but it didn't even have the sway bar connected.

He drove that truck from SW Fla to Colorado (2200 miles) on 36x14's at above normal highway driving.

Doug

 

[calamaridog]

Doug,

I'm planning on moving up to 35's at some point and regearing to 4.88. I have 4.30's now and can't see the benefit to going to 4.56. The 4.30's do fine with the 33's.

Automatic transmissions and torquey V8's help offset the problems of having too high of gears. I find this changes for the worst off road in the hills and sand though.

Phil,

Do you know if the kit relocates the radiator? Steering extension? Any other lines? Hey, if you need to clear bigger tires then a BL is certainly an option.

 

[Phil]

CDog,
They were a bit tight lipped about exactly what had to be done. They mentioned auto and transfer levers needed lengthening, lowering the radiator and some wires neede lengthening but they didn't tell me much else. Radiator and shifters I can do but I'm not a fan of mucking around on the electrics. There sounds like there might be some tricky parts as they won't sell me the parts for the kit, they will only supply and install it.

I have the 4.5ltr auto so it sounds to me like I should maybe try larger tyres first before regearing.

If high range gearing is sufficient around town with larger meats, would the Marks Adaptors Cruiser Crawler box be the best option as the truck is my daily rig and weekend warrior tool instead of changing the gears through the whole range?

Cheers Phil.

 

[calamaridog]

Phil,

We can't use the Crawler on our 100's, it only fits the 105

With that being said, I'd install a crawler before regearing the axles, as long as you are satisfied with the high range performance turning the larger tires.

Do you have a friend with 35"+ tires you can mount and try out?

 

[Phil]

No one with them on rims to fit our stud pattern, but I might be able to get some tyres for awhile.

Any idea as to what sort of rev range would be advisable at 110km/h (69m/h for you) for extended periods without causing damage?

Phil.

 

[calamaridog]

Phil, I have no idea with your drivetrain. Maybe one of the 80 guys will know, since they have the same basic drivetrain.

 

[Phil]

Good call. Thanks for the ideas.

Phil.