tired of spending $ for a front-end alignment, when all they do is adjust the toe? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 10, 2004
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Location
san pancho, ca
I was at the local Wednesday-night cruiser gathering, when a fellow cruiser indicated that my front MTs were not wearing evenly. I recently upgraded my tie-rod (bud build), and set the toe as close to what I thought it was previously (with the stock tie-rod).

He told me about utilizing some small angle iron, a pair of jack-stands and a tape measure to verify/set the toe of my cruiser. He recommended that I drill a hole into the angle and mount it via a lug nut (or two).

I performed the following procedure, and am now enjoying the benefits of a properly aligned cruiser.

1)
Jack up (secure w/jack-stands) the front of the cruiser and remove the front tires.

2)
using some vise-clamps/sea-clamps, clamp the angle directly onto the outside edge of each front brake rotor (above the hub)...due to the front brake calipers, It may be at a slight angle.

3)
along the angle iron (from the center of the rotor), measure 10" forward and 10" behind the rotor on both sides and mark the angle iron (I used masking tape).

4)
Using a tape measure, measure the froward marks from one side to the other, and do the same for the marks behind the rotors. For a Toe value of Zero, both measurements are equal.
(.I believe the factory is 2-3mm of Toe IN)

5)
I found that I had approx. 3/4" toe-out, I loosened the lock nuts on the tie-rod and set the toe by turning the tie-rod. I now have 1/16th toe-in, and the cruiser rides much better

front 52 9/16th
back 52 5/8th

A very easy procedure and a way to save some $ for other stuff :D

thanks Brian,
manny
wheel.jpg
wheel2.jpg
 
lol, my local goodyear wants to like 600 for some s*** so they can adjust my camber caster or something, i was like NO.
 
been doing it for a long time, I've got 1/4" in, but want to go a little less... but my rod is rusted solid :frown:
 
sounds like a good time to replace the stock tie-rod w/a budbuilt :D
http://www.budbuilt.com/new/tierods.html

curious, are there any other vendors that make .250 wall, 1.250" OD DOM tie-rods for fj40s (stock fj40 tie-rod ends)?

manny
 
mr_manny said:
curious, are there any other vendors that make .250 wall, 1.250" OD DOM tie-rods for fj40s (stock fj40 tie-rod ends)?

manny

don't remember what the dimensions were on my all pro tie rod, but jack rice made my drag link...exellent work and a much better price than the vendors...i had him match my d.l. to my t.r., so i could eliminate extra spares...just need 80 series ends for both.
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66fj40x2 said:
Manny - You should have bad_religion_au post this in the sticky up top so it doesn't get lost. I'm doing this in the morning....perfect timing Sir!

done
 
Manny,

Thanks for the post. Any time I can do something myself I feel more confident in the results.......and saving money ain't bad teitha!

Thanks again,

John
 
Here are my results;

I checked my toe-in a few days ago just measuring off the tires and I was about 1/8 inch toe-in.
Checked it this morning off the angle clamped to the rotor and found I was actually about 1/8 inch toe-out. Got it set now and hopefully can drive in a couple hours to see how it feels. I'm fighting a serious death wobble issue so I HOPE it helps!!!

Thanks again!
 
You don't have to go to the trouble of taking the wheels off and fiddling with the angle iron to get a good toe in measurement. You just jack up each wheel, spin it and chalk a line around the circumference of the wheel while it is spinning. Then you measure the distance between the two lines at the front and back of the tires half way up the diameter of the tire and you are done.

It is also pretty easy to spot bad toe in just by eyeball. Put the wheels straight ahead and sight along the inside of the front tires to the inside of the back tires. Fronts and rears should be exactly in line with the the front slightly toed in by maybe 1 inch visually at the back tire. If it is toed out or way toed in it will be obvious. I used to do this with every car I put up on the alignment rack and you could tell right away if the toe in was off and you could confirm how much with the rack.
 
Pin:

Help me understand that toe in tip. Not following you on that
 
Jukelemon said:
Pin:

Help me understand that toe in tip. Not following you on that

Umm OK,

You jack up the wheel and spin it by hand. While it is turning, put a piece of chalk (or a pencil) up against the tread to draw a chalk line all the way around the tire. Do the other side as well. Use the lines to measure the distance between the lines at the front and back of the tire. The back distance minus the front is the toe in.
 
Before I installed my replacement tie-rod, I paid $60 for an alightment...
Feels great to be able to perform this on my schedule, and save some $ at the same time :D

manny


Mike,
Hows the death wobble?
 
mr_manny said:
Mike,
Hows the death wobble?
Still there :mad: Set the toe-in at 3/8" and it feels a little better up to 34 mph when it starts to wobble. I noticed it pulling to the right tonight so I'm gonna check the spindle nuts and bearing. Next will be the steering box ... it started leaking a couple days ago.

Think I'll have some beer and ice cream now :D

Mike
 
Mike

I have the same wobble at the same speed. Let me know what you find and I will do the same.
You still planning on Razorback. I am and can not wait.
I am the guy in the Green 40 that ran some with you at the round up.

Mike
 
Great Tech! Thanks..
Mike.. YOu tried other tires yet? See you later in the week.
 
tornadoalleycruiser said:
Great Tech! Thanks..
Mike.. YOu tried other tires yet? See you later in the week.
I'm shopping now....looking for 37" MT/R's. These SuX's CAN NOT be balanced. Took Pin's idea above and held a chalk line to the thread while they were on the heavy truck tire balancing machine....over half an inch wobble side to side on the tire. Maybe selling them or just keep them for hard-core trails and run the MT/R's for the lighter stuff and highway.

Hats off to Becker Tire in Wichita, 3800 block of west 30th S., for all their help and time figuring out how far off the tires are.
 
My check is even more bush league...

Park the truck with the wheels facing straight ahead. Have a buddy walk with you about ten paces away from the rig. You eyeball down the side of one tire while he eyeballs the other. You can easily see when you have exactly lined up both the front and back of the sidewall. Turn and look at your buddy and if he's about 6' away from you (or whatever your trackwidth is) you have about 0 degrees of tow in. If he's much nearer or further your tow in is out to lunch. Even one degree will be easily discernable from about 10 yards.

You can do an alignment check for the whole club in about 15 minutes if you do it before a meeting. Accuracy can be a bit off after a club meeeting :)
 

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