Tire Size Advice (1 Viewer)

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Max.Powerzz

Cruisers and Art!
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Mar 24, 2006
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I know, I know, this topic has been covered ad nauseum, and I've read lots of threads, but please indulge me. My 62 is going under the knife soon (thanks Alaska60) and I'm trying to decide if I should go with 35's. I currently run OME, 33x10.50x15 BFGs. I've loved the tires and want to put them on the 40.

Alaska60 and I are doing a 5.3 conversion (okay, Tom is doing it, I'm just continually bugging him) and I'm drooling over 35s. My axles are in great shape and I'm nervous about upgrading them as I've read about lots of failures with custom axles. This truck will be used to pull a camper, family expeditions, off-roading, and as a family hauler.

So, go bigger meats with 35s or stick with 33s? Driveability and mpg are important but if it doesn't significantly affect those factors then I wouldn't mind the extra clearance for Moab, especially with my huge overhang. That will also be addressed by Tom with a bumper and rear quarter protection :cool:.

Is it worth the trouble for 1" of clearance? Can 35s really get me more places 33s can't?
 
^^^ Wondering the same...

To add to your questions if I may:

Re-gear to 4.11 necessary with the 5.3?

Likelihood of snapping axles?
 
No first-hand experience, but from what I've read you will probably be fine with the rear axle. But broken birfields become a lot more common when you step up from 33's. Given the extra power under the hood, I would get some longfields for peace of mind. Whatever failures you've read about, they probably weren't bobby longs...

As for whether 35's will get you more places, I think lockers would be a more effective modification than larger tires. If you're already locked, then I guess bigger tires are just the next step.
 
upgrade the front axle shafts and run the 35's
 
Do you have an overdrive? To keep it closer to stock gearing with 35's, maybe think of 4:56's.
Not a big deal, until you tow something. But I am a fan of taller tires for ground clearance.
 
As far as rubbing 35s will rub like a fat kids thighs and you will hate your life with that setup. You will need massive bump stomps and trimming or You need at least a shackle reversal on top of that ome lift to even be able to turn all the way with 35s without the former.. Its really not even close to clearning 35s... with 2-3 inches of lift. I had 4 inches of lift and I hated it so much I did SOA immediately ( within 150 miles of buying 35s).

4.10s will be pretty good if your towing under 3k. If your not towing frequently its a pretty good compromise of highway mileage and enough grunt. If your towing more than that and often you defiantly want 4.56s to get some use out of that 5.3s power.


As far as 35s vs 33s it is a huge difference offroad. I went from 33 mtrs to 35 km2s and it is night and day in the soft stuff. What it helps the most in the rocks is getting over steep obstacles.
 
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As far as rubbing 35s will rub like a fat kids thighs and you will hate your life with that setup. You will need massive bump stomps and trimming or You need at least a shackle reversal on top of that ome lift to even be able to turn all the way with 35s without the former.. Its really not even close to clearning 35s... with 2-3 inches of lift. I had 4 inches of lift and I hated it so much I did SOA immediately ( within 150 miles of buying 35s).

4.10s will be pretty good if your towing under 3k. If your not towing frequently its a pretty good compromise of highway mileage and enough grunt. If your towing more than that and often you defiantly want 4.56s to get some use out of that 5.3s power.


As far as 35s vs 33s it is a huge difference offroad. I went from 33 mtrs to 35 km2s and it is night and day in the soft stuff. What it helps the most in the rocks is getting over steep obstacles.

I had rub with 35's on 15x10 wheels and a SUA old worn out lift.

I went to the Maf/4plus shackle reversal kit and new 2.5" OME leaves plus went to a 16x8 3.65" back spaced rim and have zero rub anywhere. Oh I did drop my front bumps 2" but it wasn't because of rub. It was because my front axle was smashing my exhaust Y-pipe.

I am not a huge fan of the MAF/4plus shackle reversal kit. But it does work and does net you 4" of lift SUA with the OME springs. I would like to see the shackle angles a bit better on my truck but really....it flexes very well and it rides really nice. It rides like a truck though not like a car. I don't think it is harsh or jolting or any of that like a lot of people say. It rides like a truck with brand new suspension. Ever riden in a 1-ton 1980s Chevy pickup? That is what my truck rides like.

Look to my build thread if you want to see before and after as well as flexing pictures. I can stuff a 35 front or rear and not rub with the new set up.
 
Cut more if it rubs. ;)
 
The question is - do you really need 1 more inch of effective ground clearance? (from 33-35" tires) Once you go beyond 33", the mods and $$$ go up to get the extra lift/clearance. Your breakage risk goes up to...

Something to think about...

I wheeled the hell out of my stock saggy cruiser on all kinds of stuff and only wen to 33" tires after I kept smashing the tailpipe, killed 2 bumper antenna mounts, and scraped up a bunch of stuff. With the 33s, the bottom of my truck has not hit anything... But I don't do the rubicon either...
 
Hola sir. I would vote for 35's. Imho. If I haven't talked to you by the time you read this please get a hold of me about that place timberlakes. Thank you sir.
 
Hola back sir, I hear you got a place in timber lakes. Sadly our family place ended up selling. I bow to your cruiser barn wisdom, I really really really would love to go 35s (of course anything under 44 is a toy compared to your rigs).
 
well, we splapped some 35 on the 62 and I liked it...However we could only flex it out with a floor jack. After the vortec is all buttoned up, we can take it to the flex test and see what happens....remember, your just borrowing the 35 x 16's for a test...LOL!
No thread yet on the vortec?
 

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