Tire Bleeders

[TeCKis300]

This little gadget was a tool I was unaware of until recently. Perhaps you all already use this. They are worth their weight in gold when it comes to airing down.

Was out with some guys for a run recently, and funny chorus of bleed air caught my attention. And what is this, you can screw on a device in place of the cap, that will let out air to a pre-set PSI? I don't have to hurt my fingernails, or use a pen, or deal with the slow bleed feature on my pressure gauge? Let along squatting next to the tire waiting for water to boil.

Discuss and enlighten me more!

 

[TonyP]

Handy and easy.
That said, pulling the schrader core is significantly faster at airing down.

 

[steve578]

I’ve used them on my Jeeps for years. It makes airing down very simple, but it does take some time getting them set to your desired psi before the first use.

 

[tominboise]

I just today ordered one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQGCDC8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[TonyP]

I just today ordered one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQGCDC8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should have went to LCDC last year, we got one from Slee in the goodie bag.

Keep in mind, if you have Rock Warriors, they don't work as the ring gets in the way.

 

[mcgaskins]

I’ve had a set of Stauns for about 15 years, and I have the Teraflex version and ARB quick deflator too. They each have their applications, but I prefer Staun above them all.

 

[abuck99]

Makes airing down a snap. By the time youve screwed the 4th bleeder on the first tire is aired down.

 

[TeCKis300]

Handy and easy.
That said, pulling the schrader core is significantly faster at airing down.

Didn't know you can do that? I assume it requires a tool? And is it hard to put back as air is still coming out?

 

[TonyP]

Easy peasy. Especially if you have the ARB (or generic brand that tominboise posted) where you can measure the PSI with a push of the toggle.

Otherwise, one of these types of tools is all you need to remove the core and put it back in.

 

[gungriffin]

I wouldn't use a core puller. Ha ha I would be trying to find the one that shot away every time I aired down. I have a quick deflator that I use and that is relatively quick and works well. I also have a set of brass preset deflators to try this spring.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I’ve used the same Straun deflator for about 12 years now. They are pretty handy. They have their limitations with getting to the same pressure when traveling. Example would be setting them in Florida for 17 psi, then trying to deflate in Colorado, they sure won’t be at 17.

I also like all my tires exactly the same psi when off-road, which is pretty impossible with any deflator like this. So I have them set for 22 psi, then I unscrew the Staun and flip it over. The little stem on the Staun makes a great manual deflator to fine tune my pressure down to 17-20 psi (varies based on the terrain I’m in)

I think they are worth it, screwing them on one at a time, by the time you make your way around the truck and back to first tire you started at, it is only a minute or so before they are pretty much done. Then you can fine tune if you care to do that.

Don’t pull the valve core like mentioned earlier. It’s a great way to get the o-ring inside to loose its ability to seal, and also make it much easier to loose the core itself. And then you might end up fully crushing the tire on the ground because you are trying to find a new core. And it’s not really that much faster.

 

[TonyP]

I wouldn't use a core puller. Ha ha I would be trying to find the one that shot away every time I aired down. I have a quick deflator that I use and that is relatively quick and works well. I also have a set of brass preset deflators to try this spring.

For less than $17 you can have 100 tries at it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KEO7K6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

[TonyP]

Don’t pull the valve core like mentioned earlier. It’s a great way to get the o-ring inside to loose its ability to seal, and also make it much easier to loose the core itself. And then you might end up fully crushing the tire on the ground because you are trying to find a new core. And it’s not really that much faster.

The sealing ring is part of the core. (ignore the circle)

It's definitely faster to air down pulling the core.

But different strokes...

 

[gungriffin]

For less than $17 you can have 100 tries at it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KEO7K6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Ha ha plenty of backups, I like it!

 

[gungriffin]

I’ve used the same Straun deflator for about 12 years now. They are pretty handy. They have their limitations with getting to the same pressure when traveling. Example would be setting them in Florida for 17 psi, then trying to deflate in Colorado, they sure won’t be at 17.

I also like all my tires exactly the same psi when off-road, which is pretty impossible with any deflator like this. So I have them set for 22 psi, then I unscrew the Staun and flip it over. The little stem on the Staun makes a great manual deflator to fine tune my pressure down to 17-20 psi (varies based on the terrain I’m in)

I think they are worth it, screwing them on one at a time, by the time you make your way around the truck and back to first tire you started at, it is only a minute or so before they are pretty much done. Then you can fine tune if you care to do that.

Don’t pull the valve core like mentioned earlier. It’s a great way to get the o-ring inside to loose its ability to seal, and also make it much easier to loose the core itself. And then you might end up fully crushing the tire on the ground because you are trying to find a new core. And it’s not really that much faster.

This is what I plan to do with my brass deflators. Set them high and then just manually finish for fine tuning. I have a Joes Racing tire pressure guage that I keep in the Cruiser to quickly check the tire pressures. It has a pressure release valve on it and is accurate to about a half PSI.

 

[Markuson]

To OP-
If you’re not familiar, you adjust each individually in advance. It basically operated via a spring that you preload to varying degrees via a threaded adjustment ring. So you set one tire to your desired air-down pressure (say 18-22 or whatever you like to run). Then you tighten another ring to hold the spring pressure so that it stops releasing air once your preferred OSI is reached.

Even if not perfectly adjusted and you have to check, it’s still a time & annoyance saver. I put them all on and by the time I get back to the first tire, it’s getting close to the target PSI.

Like Tony said, a stem puller is faster, but the Stauns are fast enough for me.

My only complaint is that it is too easy to accidentally loosen the adjustment ring. But even if they stay adjusted, I always check pressures. I go pretty low, and a few pounds lower could be very iffy so worth checking before hitting trail.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

The sealing ring is part of the core. (ignore the circle)

It's definitely faster to air down pulling the core.

But different strokes...

I think we are saying the same thing, my grammar was probably poor on my post. The o-ring is part of the core. But a Staun will always be faster than pulling the core in the grand scheme of things.

A Staun can be put on, and keep driving while deflating, nothing faster than that. But like you said, different strokes...

 

[OregonLC]

They work, but I never trust them to hit a specific pressure. This is how I use mine: Put one on the front. Wait about a minute. Put one on the back. Monitor the front with a guage as the flow rate starts to taper. Pull the stem to accelerate flow until at the desired pressure. Replace cap. Monitor and adjust rear. Repeat on other side of vehicle. I usually set the stopwatch on the first one as a guide to the other three.

I often travel with a guy who uses the ARB valve core tool. He and I get done at about the same time so there's no real benefit in time to either method but it is easier to monitor with the ARB and I would go that way if I were starting from scratch. Just remember to carry spare valve cores.

 

[RET2]

Didn't know you can do that? I assume it requires a tool? And is it hard to put back as air is still coming out?

No but it is very hard if you don't catch the Schrader valve it's self and it flies off like a Space-X rocket. Not a bad idea to carry a couple of spares, they are cheap and easy to store.