Whats 15 extra pounds on a 6,800 lb vehicle.......Id go for strength over trying to shed 15 extra pounds.....
maybe use titanium hardware too..that will shed a pound or two
tips on bumper building (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter burns offroad
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Whats 15 extra pounds on a 6,800 lb vehicle.......Id go for strength over trying to shed 15 extra pounds.....
maybe use titanium hardware too..that will shed a pound or two
Whats 15 extra pounds on a 6,800 lb vehicle.......Id go for strength over trying to shed 15 extra pounds.....
maybe use titanium hardware too..that will shed a pound or two
Your wagon is a fat ass!
I suppose you are right, but 15# here and there adds up pretty fast.
I already use cross drilled wires and hoses, sanded paint off in unseen places and removed several rubber grommets.
tonkota said:Your wagon is a fat ass!
I suppose you are right, but 15# here and there adds up pretty fast.
I already use cross drilled wires and hoses, sanded paint off in unseen places and removed several rubber grommets.
Whoa! I hope you realize crossdrilled hoses are for "full race" applications only. Kinda like yellow brake calipers and N.O.S stickers.
- Thread starter
- #24
No it's got a top and then the bottom goes in on the sides to support the spindle and add structure. I'm sorry this is clearly a really crappy picture I'll post a better one soon
You're not starting a fab shop are you?
Your name makes me think that you are but your experience says otherwise.
Do those recovery points go through the plate or are they welded to the surface?
- Thread starter
- #26
No they are welded on yeah I'm inexperienced and no I'm not starting a shop. This is my first bumper I'm a mechanic, just trying to get better at welding. This seemed like a good way to learn. Why how many bumpers have you built?
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I've built a few myself. Man-a-fre has detailed pics here
4+PLUS 60 Series Tow Bumper, Tire and Jerry Can Carrier
Like others have said you should box around the spindle areas. 3/16" is a good choice for the channel.
I chose to incorporate a "replacement" crossmember as the stock piece is flimsy and many are rusted badly. This also provides support for the hitch allowing a great tow capacity because we all know what great loads the 60 can handle. Nothing like a 10,000 lb trailer to keep that horsepower in check
4+PLUS 60 Series Tow Bumper, Tire and Jerry Can Carrier
Like others have said you should box around the spindle areas. 3/16" is a good choice for the channel.
I chose to incorporate a "replacement" crossmember as the stock piece is flimsy and many are rusted badly. This also provides support for the hitch allowing a great tow capacity because we all know what great loads the 60 can handle. Nothing like a 10,000 lb trailer to keep that horsepower in check
that's not a very constructive comment is it?
i don't think he ever mentioned "starting a fab shop," did he?
he's just looking for some feedback and advice, not for you to be an A$$.
burns- i think you should listen to the others, and ignore this joker.
Not much to add except that when looking at spindles get one that you can sink into the bumper. I used a 4x4 labs spindle and was able to weld it to the top plate as well as the bottom plate of the bumper. Ive seen a couple crappy home made carriers crack and one break right off because the spindle was only welded to the top plate.
D
D
I think a bumper is the perfect spot for a guy to get his feet wet w/ design and construction. There will be a learning curve...I'm in my 3rd bumper projo, and it is ever evolving. Just make sure that what ever you put together will not explode on hard impact and cause more damage than it was supposed to prevent.
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks for the support. I just put it on the truck tonight and it looks great. I haven't built the tire mount yet but the bumper itself and the swing arm work good. I used the 4x4 labs hinge and thought it was pretty good. However I did find that the bumper does bow a little event with the spindle welded at the top and bottom so I'm going to put another support bracket in there other wise it works just like is should tommorow when its light out I'll get some pics thanks for the help y'all
despite all the hubbub, you should post up more pics from different views. there are eyes here that will be useful to your project if you let them be.....
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
Now you're seeing what we saw from your pics. There's not nearly enough strength in a single sheet of 1/4" plate to meet the requirements of a typical bumper. It needs support in more than one plane, and along it's full length (unlike where you have 'boxed' just the spindle area). Think of the strength of simple angle iron vs a flat strip of the same thickness metal...they don't even come close because the angle iron has strength in two planes.
pics please......
- Thread starter
- #35
Here are some pics
- Thread starter
- #36
So my next question is when mounting the tire mount on the arm should I build it in at an upward angle and will that take some of the load off the arm because the tire is facing some what up and not just out
kling-on
Kool Arrow
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burns offroad said:
Not really its more for looks. Make sure you can see your tail lights you center post looks a little far over. Also re ck my link to my bumper I added tire mount pics
Your bumper appears to be mounted pretty low so I'm guessing clearance isn't your first concern. ( this is not a criticism ) Your tire upright should be about 18" from the hinge. This will allow full view of the taillight with the tire in place .
I wouldn't use longer than a 14"~16" upright for the tire or you may see too much motion on rough
roads and the leverage will take a toll on the rest of the construction. It appears your arm is 24" or longer.
I can't tell from the picture for sure but it looks like there is no stop on the tire arm to prevent over travel to stop the tire arm from smacking the tailgate. Make sure there is adequate clearance to the sheet metal, 4"-6", or you'll have to listen to your tire arm bang against your tailgate over every pothole
I wouldn't use longer than a 14"~16" upright for the tire or you may see too much motion on rough
roads and the leverage will take a toll on the rest of the construction. It appears your arm is 24" or longer.
I can't tell from the picture for sure but it looks like there is no stop on the tire arm to prevent over travel to stop the tire arm from smacking the tailgate. Make sure there is adequate clearance to the sheet metal, 4"-6", or you'll have to listen to your tire arm bang against your tailgate over every pothole
- Thread starter
- #39
I'm planning on putting on a lift and some 33 s right.now it's all stock. So your saying the carrier should be lower and the arm mount should be as short as possible right? I do have some stops built to put in.
- Thread starter
- #40
When you say upright what do you mean
