- Thread starter
- #41
Here are some more photos
tips on bumper building
- Thread starter burns offroad
- Start date
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definitely needs to come up about 5 inches.
nice fab skills, I like the lines but it is waaaay too low regardless of future lift.
watch your tail lights when positioning the spare as well.
probably going to need to re-locate license plate.
nice fab skills, I like the lines but it is waaaay too low regardless of future lift.
watch your tail lights when positioning the spare as well.
probably going to need to re-locate license plate.
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Looks like it is way too low because of that huge body mount bushing at the back, did you do a body lift?
I'm referring to the vertical post that the tire would mount to. 13" would be a good size for 33's. That will let the inside face of the tire rest on the horizontal arm and help stabilize it. i see in the new pics there is a 2" body lift. That would explain the
low position of the main channel. You might get creative with the mount design to bring it up and fill the gap.
Also you are too tight to the body with the arm. It will hit on a bad road
- Thread starter
- #45
I know I would have liked to but at this point I dont think it would be worth it. I think after the ome2.5 lift and 33 s it will kinda even it out. So you are saying I should cut the swing arm down a little and then mount the tire right?
- Thread starter
- #46
Ignore that last comment I just reread your post
why is it too late? is it welded onto the frame? if you can fabricate that thing then you can re-position it. it looks ridiculous and it is killing your departure angle, you will drag through the mud and rocks if you ever take it off-road. these rigs are already so long, to amplify the problem this way is a travesty. it is a nice looking bumper, just raise it up.
I cut my rear crossmember out so I could shorten my frame rails to gain a few inches.
- Thread starter
- #48
Here is the finished product
like was said before, it's obviously way too low...right? a suspension lift isn't going to help close that gap.
and i would agree with the others that you should box in the bottom for strength and support.
it looks like you did nice work, it just needs some tweaking.
and i would agree with the others that you should box in the bottom for strength and support.
it looks like you did nice work, it just needs some tweaking.
- Thread starter
- #50
I inserted 2 x3 1/4 inch rectangular tube into each side now it's really sturdy also added bump stops made of rubber for swing out and latching down I also added another crossmember in the swing out part
ntsqd
technerd
This is a criticism, intended to be a constructive one at that. Your latch needs to be re-positioned so that it draws the swing-away closed against whatever stop you have to keep it from swinging on into the tailgate. The way that the latch is currently placed will allow the swing-away to wobble back and forth, slightly. Adjusting the latch's draw bolt will never fix this.
it looks like your cruiser is sagging it's pants.
for the love of baby Jesus, please raise it so that it's flush to the bottom of your tailgate.
performance and aesthetics, command you.
for the love of baby Jesus, please raise it so that it's flush to the bottom of your tailgate.
performance and aesthetics, command you.
x2, if you ever take that thing offroad, you will bury that bumper in the mud everytime, regardless of your lift and tires. think approach or departure angle. like said before, these trucks are long so you don't want to make that disadvantage even worse!
Fourrunner
SILVER Star
I assume when he says "ome 2.5 lift", he will most likely remove the body lift spacers and it will reduce the gap. I understand why it sits where it does...he picked up the stock bumper mount holes. Engineering a bracket to raise it up would be extra work when (assume he is removing spacers) he removes the spacers. Looks good though. Do you have support underneath the tire carrier?
- Thread starter
- #55
Yeah the stop is on the bumper and te latch pulls it down to it so that it doesn't swing and I know its a big
Gap but your gonna have to wait for me
To fix it cuz I'm only one man
Gap but your gonna have to wait for me
To fix it cuz I'm only one man
the way it sits now it looks horrific. The overall fab skills look good but on the truck it looks slackjawed
Fourrunner
SILVER Star
What I really mean is that on the top surface of the bumper, you need to have some sort of rest to prevent the bending moment you currently have (the clamp only prevents it from swinging open and moving upward, what about the 1/2" to 3/4" vertical movement it can do?). This bending will cause your pivot to fail. Maybe you have it, just hard to see it.
So, are you going to remove the body lift?
Also, even if you do not replace the design of the latching mechanism, at least flip it around so that the handle is not hanging down..
Also, even if you do not replace the design of the latching mechanism, at least flip it around so that the handle is not hanging down..
Fourrunner
SILVER Star
^^^ agree ^^^
ntsqd
technerd
What I meant was that the direction of the draw of the latch needs to be in the same direction as the swing of the swing-away. Orienting it any other way is far less than desirable. Up to you what you do about it, but when you ask for input.....
