tips and tricks...

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When changing oil If you take a srewdriver and poke a hole in the top of the oil filter the filter will drain into the engine rather than spill oil all over the place when you remove it.

It takes a few min to drain but saves mop up time in the end.

Yes, the filter will now drip all over the place once it is off,(it's got holes in both ends, duh!) plastic sack it and recycle.
 
Here's one for the mud lovers.

Spray your wheel wells with PAM cooking spray before you go out wheeling and once you're back home they'll hose down very easily.

Of course that's after you've rolled around town parading your trophy mud for the first 3 days...

...if that's what you do


...anyone?



...Beuller?
 
Tips and Tricks

The 60 Series marker lights, door handles (some are even factory black in colour-Canadian spelling) and lots of other doodads are compatable with early model Tercels (ie: my '83 BJ60 and a '83 Tercel) and there are alot more of them sitting in scrapyards than 'Cruisers.

Try it out... you never know what'll fit.
 
Correct me if i'm wrong, but you can do 2lo by shifting into 4lo, but not locking the hubs. Also, spray your tires with pam before going into a mud hole and they'll self-clean better, helping to prevent you from getting stuck.
 
Yes 2lo can be had by not locking your hubs. But on the trail why would y a want to get out and un-lock the hubs to get around one spot to get back out and lock them again. It works awesome for scooting the huge ass of a 60 around rocks and trees.
 
Rig of Mortis said:
The 60 Series marker lights, door handles (some are even factory black in colour-Canadian spelling) and lots of other doodads are compatable with early model Tercels (ie: my '83 BJ60 and a '83 Tercel) and there are alot more of them sitting in scrapyards than 'Cruisers.

Try it out... you never know what'll fit.


Surprisingly door hinges too, Celica=60 series and 70 series
 
Rear wiring re-route

When I was having trouble with my tail lights (stopped working), it was because the wiring had just corroded away due to road & Off-highway dirt/salt... over 20 years worth.

When lying under the truck, I noticed the wiring loom came out of the body (inner wall of the quarter pannel) from the (North American)drivers side, crossed the body outside and re-entred the on the passenger side (inner wall of the quarter pannel).

Observing this, I looked for options of different wiring routes and proceeded with running the wiring loom inside the body, up the inside, past where the breather vents on the back pillars, running through behind the top hatch hinges and down the other side, thus keeping the loom far from any of natures elements and dry(er) from any deep water crossings.

I haven't had a problem since.

Thanks for your ears.
 
Rig of Mortis said:
When I was having trouble with my tail lights (stopped working), it was because the wiring had just corroded away due to road & Off-highway dirt/salt... over 20 years worth.

When lying under the truck, I noticed the wiring loom came out of the body (inner wall of the quarter pannel) from the (North American)drivers side, crossed the body outside and re-entred the on the passenger side (inner wall of the quarter pannel).

Observing this, I looked for options of different wiring routes and proceeded with running the wiring loom inside the body, up the inside, past where the breather vents on the back pillars, running through behind the top hatch hinges and down the other side, thus keeping the loom far from any of natures elements and dry(er) from any deep water crossings.

I haven't had a problem since.

Thanks for your ears.



I re-ran my harness in the body channel that it was running along. fourtunatly years of rust had given me som easy access to the interior of the channel. I'm not sure I would open it up just to run the wires, but not rerunning the wires while fixing the rust seemed like a waste.
 
lowtideride said:
The reason most believe Toyota did not do that is because the American public would be confused by it.

Perhaps... but in Europe, the larger parts of the 6-series have this plate.
The others (like mine) don't have because they couldn't
(look at my bodylift album, first page three last picture http://gallery.solexine.fr/album26?page=1)
the tranny lever has only two ways: 2H or 4Lo. The 4H is obtained using a switch on the dashboard.
This is pretty cool when driving on a snowy road to alternate 2H/4H easily (in straight line only of course)
 
Not exactly brain surgery, but I'm happy with this upgrade: I was always frustrated at how little coverage my 18" stock wipers gave. I stuck some 20" ones on and they do the whole windshield nicely...

Tim
88 fj62 TLCA
 
I may just be the idiot and had never thought about it before but when changing the oil you can push in the oil plug until it's fully unthreaded and grab it off, instead of unscrewing it and having it drop in the old oil. Like I said, maybe (probably) I'm the idiot...
 
By best suggestion...

Do not curse at your cruiser. They become offended and can easily make your life hell...
 
When the PO putts the hose clamps on the bypass hose uside down and you cant reach the bolt head just whak it with a long flat head screw driver and a hammer. Place it between the clamp part and the screw thingy and give a good whak. That will get them off. Its better than dissassembling the whole front just to get it out. EFEN POS!!
 
High Desert said:
When changing oil If you take a srewdriver and poke a hole in the top of the oil filter the filter will drain into the engine rather than spill oil all over the place when you remove it.

It takes a few min to drain but saves mop up time in the end.

Yes, the filter will now drip all over the place once it is off,(it's got holes in both ends, duh!) plastic sack it and recycle.

I actually use a sharpened punch instead of a screwdriver, since it punctures the metal of the filter without putting nearly as much stress on the filter mount as trying to puncture with a screwdriver would.
 
This is a fun one. If you loose the rear trans seal (fairly common) the trans will start to suck all the oil from the t-case. So instead of pulling the two arpart and fixing the gasket Take fill plugs off of both units Drill through center of both bolts (on drill press or stout vise) Thread , Weld or JB weld some straight hose fittings in the hole and run a hose between the two. Now you have a gravity feed return line and no need to fix the seal.

Dynosoar
 
Dynosoar said:
This is a fun one. If you loose the rear trans seal (fairly common) the trans will start to suck all the oil from the t-case. So instead of pulling the two arpart and fixing the gasket Take fill plugs off of both units Drill through center of both bolts (on drill press or stout vise) Thread , Weld or JB weld some straight hose fittings in the hole and run a hose between the two. Now you have a gravity feed return line and no need to fix the seal.

Dynosoar

Are there any good way when T-case sucks all the oil from tranny ?

Thank you,

Oh, Min Seok
 
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