tips and tricks... (2 Viewers)

Joined
Sep 29, 2003
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The Sunshine State
Who ever knows one, throw it up...


54mm hub socket works awesome for seating pinion seals...
threading a bolt into drum brake pops it right off...
You can Hi-lift spring pins out...
Fan shroud mod(cut it in half)...
2lo ( remove restrictor plate thang on t-case)...
I know there is a bunch more but I can't think right now...need sleep.
 
Joined
Aug 9, 2004
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Little Rock, AR
Not much of one, but i'll play anyway....
when changing the oil waiting for it to drain, when it starts to drip, go get a roll of toilet paper. put it on the fill hole and blow air down in there...it speeds it up and I think it helps it to clear out a little better.

Now if you're SOA, better climb up there....
 

lowenbrau

SILVER Star
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Rockyview County AB
When your clutch goes and your rig won't move another inch. Blow as much baby powder into it through the clutch fork hole as you can and you'll be good for another thousand miles.
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
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Magnolia, TX
lowtideride said:
Who ever knows one, throw it up...
2lo ( remove restrictor plate thang on t-case)...
QUOTE]


ive heard of that but my question is why didnt toyota do that stock? makes me thing there meay be some way to damage something doing that??
 
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MR.FJ60 said:
BlueBoxFJ60 said:
lowtideride said:
2lo ( remove restrictor plate thang on t-case)...
QUOTE]

Call me slow, but where?


You have to remove the tranny to take it off. I think, I'm not sure though I took it off when I changed my clutch.. The reason most believe Toyota did not do that is because the American public would be confused by it.
 
Joined
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OK... heres onther one.


If your 24mm oil pan drain plug is leaking. Unscrew it by a few threads but not enough that it falls out. Spray brake cleaner around it and qucky shoot RTV all the around it and tighten it up.
 
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Feb 12, 2004
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North Texas
lowtideride said:
OK... heres onther one.


If your 24mm oil pan drain plug is leaking. Unscrew it by a few threads but not enough that it falls out. Spray brake cleaner around it and qucky shoot RTV all the around it and tighten it up.


Or use a softer paper or felt gasket on top of the OEM gasket so that the softer one touches the pan and the OEM harder gasket makes a tight seal.

This is particularly useful if your pan gets buggered up around the drain hole where it is supposed to seal. The softer gasket conforms to the ridges and dings and fills in the gaps.
 
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Portland, OR
lowtideride said:
threading a bolt into drum brake pops it right off...

and if that doesn't work, and you can't retract the shoes anymore or they are stuck, hit the drum with a high heat source (oxy/acetylene) to expand the drum, then wack it off (the drum you perves!) with a BFH :D

-dogboy- '87 FJ60
 
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Portland, OR
When changing out leaf springs, use the stock bottle jack under the spring pack to help hold and position the spring and to jack the axle into place while aligning the holes for the spring pins on the shackles.

-dogboy- '87 FJ60
 
Joined
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Larkspur, CO
Non-specific 50-yr-old shadetree trick for holding pesky small parts together that will see oil in use: stiff grease.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2006
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Wenatchee, WA
Going out on a limb here about a leaking oil plug, (I don't want anyone coming back on me about having a stuck plug in there oil pan, use at your own descretion). But what I do if I have a leaking oil plug is on the next scheduled oil change, I clean the drain hole with brake cleaner (may have to wait a while for most of the oil to drain) and coat the whole oil plug with a light coat of bore grease (used for my muzzleloader barrel), I have also used Pam cooking spray with success. I screw the oil plug back into the hole about 1/2 - 3/4 way through and place enough J B weld on the inside head of the bolt (without the gasket) and screwed it in snug, wipe off the excess. this is If I have time (a day or so without driving) I would take it out and have a perfect seat for my gasket to rest against. I have used this technique on other vehicles and rifles (embedding the reciever and barrels in opoxy).
 

lowenbrau

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Jan 22, 2003
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An old knuckle bearing race is the perfect size for getting more crush out of a crush sleeve.

To remove a throw out bearing. Pack the TO bearing full of grease and then pound a bolt into the hole and let the hydraulic presure force the bearing out.
 
Joined
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Wenatchee, WA
Bookseeb said:
Going out on a limb here about a leaking oil plug, (I don't want anyone coming back on me about having a stuck plug in
there oil pan
, use at your own descretion). But what I do if I have a leaking oil plug is on the next scheduled oil change, I clean the drain hole with brake cleaner (may have to wait a while for most of the oil to drain) and coat the whole oil plug with a light coat of bore grease (used for my muzzleloader barrel), I have also used Pam cooking spray with success. I screw the oil plug back into the hole about 1/2 - 3/4 way through and place enough J B weld on the inside head of the bolt (without the gasket) and screwed it in snug, wipe off the excess. this is If I have time (a day or so without driving) I would take it out and have a perfect seat for my gasket to rest against. I have used this technique on other vehicles and rifles (embedding the reciever and barrels in opoxy).

"thier"oil pan, "thier" oil pan, sorry that misspelling was bothering me.
 
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If you live in an area that's cold, and need to do engine work, make sure the engine is really warm before you start. Miminizes discomfort for the wrencher...
 
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Larkspur, CO
Lowenbrau -
Clutch alignment tool is easier to use than a bolt to remove the pilot bearing/bushing by packing the bearing full of heavy grease & pounding the alignment tool in.

If you're replacing a trashed tranny (like we were doing with our '85 Hilux), cut off the old input shaft (may have to remove the bell housing to get a shot at it), & you've got a "free" clutch alignment tool.
 
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