Timing Check: How Too? (1 Viewer)

[Benji]

Checking the Timing on a 84 FJ60

I have been trying to do more and more mechanically involved things since I bought my Cruiser, but I have yet to check the timing on the truck.

I want to check the timing as I think it could be 'avdanced a bit.'

How do I go about checking the timing and changing it if necessary?
I will have to buy a timing light; what do you suggest?
Finally what other things are involved, tips etc.

I have tried to find the timing marks on the 2F, but have not succeded .

Again, this will be my first time, so a comprehensive write up would be appreciated.

 

[DocB]

Look behind the starter, there is a swing up flywheel cover. Swing it up. Should be two marks on your flywheel, a HASHMARK (TOP DEAD CENTER) and a BB (7 degrees BTDC). Then there is a pointer, fixed. When using a timing gun on first plug wire, the point should point to the BB if set to factory specs. You will want to get a gun with advance, so you can turn the knob on the gun to see how many degrees advanced from the marks you are if you "advance it a bit" beyond factory specs. I got both of mine at Autozone; the electronic read out one is nice because it also shows a tach but it is not as durable and mine already broke. I like the more durable turn the knob style with a durable casing. To change the timing, loosen the distributor clamp bolt (10 mm flex head Gear Wrench works best in this tight spot.) CCW to advance, CW to retard.
Total advance = static advance (say 7 deg BTDC) + centrifugal advance + vacuum advance. You may have a vac adv dist or a vac retard dist or both. Right now just go with the dizzy you have. Remember to unplug the vac lines at the dizzy to set static (idle) timing. Plug them with golf tees to prevent vac leak while setting. The truck WILL run better at idle with more adv timing (like 12 deg) but the important thing is DOES IT PING UNDER LOAD when at higher RPMs and total advance. If it does, your static advance is too much. Back it off until all PINGING goes away. Pinging sounds like marbles thrown into the engine; BAD for the motor.

 

[Benji]

Look behind the starter, there is a swing up flywheel cover. Swing it up. Should be two marks on your flywheel, a HASHMARK (TOP DEAD CENTER) and a BB (7 degrees BTDC). Then there is a pointer, fixed. When using a timing gun on first plug wire, the point should point to the BB if set to factory specs. You will want to get a gun with advance, so you can turn the knob on the gun to see how many degrees advanced from the marks you are if you "advance it a bit" beyond factory specs. I got both of mine at Autozone; the electronic read out one is nice because it also shows a tach but it is not as durable and mine already broke. I like the more durable turn the knob style with a durable casing. To change the timing, loosen the distributor clamp bolt (10 mm flex head Gear Wrench works best in this tight spot.) CCW to advance, CW to retard.
Total advance = static advance (say 7 deg BTDC) + centrifugal advance + vacuum advance. You may have a vac adv dist or a vac retard dist or both. Right now just go with the dizzy you have. Remember to unplug the vac lines at the dizzy to set static (idle) timing. Plug them with golf tees to prevent vac leak while setting. The truck WILL run better at idle with more adv timing (like 12 deg) but the important thing is DOES IT PING UNDER LOAD when at higher RPMs and total advance. If it does, your static advance is too much. Back it off until all PINGING goes away. Pinging sounds like marbles thrown into the engine; BAD for the motor.

Thanks DocB, this is very helpful.

 

[PabloCruise]

Doc's info was great.

Why not say "screw the timing light" and set her by vacuum?

All you need is a vacuum guage.

Tonms of posts about this on the 40 forum...

 

[Benji]

Doc's info was great.

Why not say "screw the timing light" and set her by vacuum?

All you need is a vacuum guage.

Tonms of posts about this on the 40 forum...

Yeah, I did a search and saw that you had mentioned this, but I did not find as comprehensive of a thread as I needed.

More suggestions are welcome

Thanks,
ben

 

[NocalFJ60]

I just bought a timing light from JC whitney with a digital advance and digital RPM guage. It has already been very helpful in reading RPM's for adjusting carb. Also it was easy to set timing since I could adjust the timing on the timing light to see which way I needed to move it. I used a 20% coupon when I got it and seemed like the best price I could find.

Here is a link.

Timing Gun

 

[PabloCruise]

Well these ones spell it out pretty well:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=26389&highlight=vacuum

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=36697&highlight=vacuum

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/vacuum.php

 

[DocB]

Set your timing, to no PING, then adjust carb fuel mixture to adjust the vacuum. Get a vac guage from Autozone etc, hook it to manifold vac via the hose that goes to brake booster, set fuel mix to max vacuum (should be 17 to 18 psi). If you set timing to max vac, your RPMs go up as you advance static timing and the engine develops false (non idle) manifold vac. So set timing to NO PING, then idle mix to max vac.

 

[Liam]

i am such a nub on some things...this is giving me a headache

 

[Benji]

Thanks for all the great help .

I should get to it sometime next week.

I'll let everyone know how it goes.