Timing belt help.

[Pernilongo]

Where did you buy the kit? Give us a link.

That was eBay some 6 month ago. I went back to check for it and eBay says "buy similar" but won't take me to seller. I found exact same kit minutes later with the same timing belt sticker and hardware because I was looking for it. I'll give a link in a few minutes.

 

[Pernilongo]

Where did you buy the kit? Give us a link.

I can't do the link because eBay app won't let me. I saw a number of this type of kits on eBay. Ill take this to Toyota dealer tomorrow to verify, just to be 100 percent sure.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Will chime on this since I will be doing this soon, I have a question for a 2006 LX’s TDC position - where should it be? Thanks in advance.

View attachment 2435099View attachment 2435100

Would you know the correct position for a 2006 LX (with VVTi)? Will be doing this soon and would appreciate any info for the year model I have. Thanks in advance.

 

[MJK]

TDC is always TDC - same regardless of year. VVTi cams look different, but cam and crank marks are the same. See this post.

Different years recommend replacement of the timing belt at different places relative to TDC, so that there is less spring pressure on your valves trying to rotate the cam with the belt off. I don't know the recommended timing for an 06 is. Nor in full candor what 05 is - I just did mine at TDC and was careful not to move anything.

Both cams and the crank should line up with belt marks when you first reassemble. Then tension everything and spin the engine over clockwise (as viewed from the front) to check it. 720 crank degrees = 360 cam degrees, so timing marks should align every 2 crank turns (belt marks won't any more once you start spinning it over).

Hope that makes sense.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Yes I think that makes sense, I just can’t relate completely ‘yet’ as I am visual type of person and only way I can fully confirm is if I have the parts staring at me. I will look back again at this thread when I start working on the TB, WP replacement and all other parts ‘while at it’ surrounding this maintenance work. Thanks again @MJK

 

[2KLX]

The wealth on knowledge on this forum never ceases to amaze me! This is why I'm on here EVERY DAY haha - I do wish we had an app though.

 

[Pernilongo]

You are asking for trouble installing a no-name T-belt. Of all the thing to chance a lower cost option on, this is pretty near the bottom of the list.

This was my shopping list for T-belt. Add in coolant, a thermostat, a 16604-50030 serpentine idler, and heater tees from your fav online dealer to complete the list. If funds are tight, skip the bracket and do it later.

View attachment 2435981

So the belt kit is fake 100 percent and the belt jumped about 6-7 teeth at the crank. I'll be buying original belt kit at the end of the month. Cam marks didn't jump. Do I just align cams and then remove the belt and move the crank to proper timing?

 

[MJK]

Get the Aisin kit from a reputable source.

For R&R, I would set the truck to TDC on the crank, remove the old belt/bearings/water pump/tensioner, install new idler bearings/water pump, and then start fitting the new belt at the crank. Work your way up the drivers side and manually rotate the cam to the correct position on the belt, then under the water pump, up around the passenger side, align the passenger cam, and over the tensioner. Take up belt slack as you go. Cams might want to move, so be careful. You can use binder clips or soft jaw squeeze clamps to hold the belt to the cams/crank in the correct position if you find yourself in need of extra hands. Once you have it, then install the tensioner, pull the pin and check time by turning the engine over clockwise with a wrench on the crank nut.

 

[Pernilongo]

Get the Aisin kit from a reputable source.

For R&R, I would set the truck to TDC on the crank, remove the old belt/bearings/water pump/tensioner, install new idler bearings/water pump, and then start fitting the new belt at the crank. Work your way up the drivers side and manually rotate the cam to the correct position on the belt, then under the water pump, up around the passenger side, align the passenger cam, and over the tensioner. Take up belt slack as you go. Cams might want to move, so be careful. You can use binder clips or soft jaw squeeze clamps to hold the belt to the cams/crank in the correct position if you find yourself in need of extra hands. Once you have it, then install the tensioner, pull the pin and check time by turning the engine over clockwise with a wrench on the crank nut.

I got it. Thank you very much for your help again. It seems that non vvti is not an interfierence engine for anyone still with questions. It started and drove fine with this much timing off, just was shaking a bit. For anyone reading this post always use original parts including fan pulley bracket. AutoZone one will die and snap after 30k miles and your belt will skip timing. Don't be cheap with your trucks. They will forgive up to vvti models but it's not worth it.

 

[eager pace]

TDC is always TDC - same regardless of year. VVTi cams look different, but cam and crank marks are the same. See this post.

Different years recommend replacement of the timing belt at different places relative to TDC, so that there is less spring pressure on your valves trying to rotate the cam with the belt off. I don't know the recommended timing for an 06 is. Nor in full candor what 05 is - I just did mine at TDC and was careful not to move anything.

Both cams and the crank should line up with belt marks when you first reassemble. Then tension everything and spin the engine over clockwise (as viewed from the front) to check it. 720 crank degrees = 360 cam degrees, so timing marks should align every 2 crank turns (belt marks won't any more once you start spinning it over).

Hope that makes sense.

My cams stayed lined up until I torqued the gears back on. I guess I should have done that after I got the belt back on. I lost track of the position, how can I make sure they’re in phase with the crank?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I guess I should have done that after I got the belt back on.

Yes. Read the FSM.

 

[eager pace]

Yes. Read the FSM.

Yea, I screwed up, looking for help to get back on track.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Yea, I screwed up, looking for help to get back on track.

Turn the offending cam back to TDC using the mark on the cam cover. Unlike the crank, you can rotate the cams both clockwise and counterclockwise to get each back to TDC. I would absolutely not turn it a full revolution though. So if it kicked clockwise, then just rotate it back counterclockwise to TDC. Once it’s back, then remove the passenger side cam pulley and install the timing belt, then reinstall the passenger cam pulley.