Time to Quit Cruisers?

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H

hwi1s0n

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Jun 28, 2004
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Driving on a windy back road and experiencing the near death effects of the photo have made me start to wonder. Went between two trees and almost up to a good-sized rock that may or may not have kept me out of the ravine and river.


-HW
neardeath.webp
 
that's a normal wear item and should be checked every oil change for excess free play.
just last week i had to "trail fix" a 97 buick, rear lower control arm on the irs rotted in half:eek: welded in a stock 80 series tie rod in its place 10 x stronger then the stock Buick control arm ever was
sorry that happened to you but with a truck that old you will want to check wear points frequently for excess play, wouldn't dump the truck over it tho
 
Yes you need to get rid of that truck. Driving tired iron places a lot more responsibility on it's owner to make sure it's safe to drive. Both for you, your passengers and others around you. You don't seem to have either the skills or desire to make sure that happens.

Fix it properly and sell it.
 
Naw, dont fix it. Ill be by to pick it up.
Or there is this dude in VT who I know, I think he fixes old junk cruisers...
:flipoff2:
 
"fixes" might be a stretch. I'm going with "collects".
 
glad to hear yer alive Harry
a couple pennies fixes that worn end right up.....one on each side of the spring:hillbilly:
new ones are not too pricey really, compared to your life:meh:

nothing worse than :steer::steer::steer::eek:
 
Sounds like a *cheap* lesson in maintenance for ya...

Man-a-Fre has very good quality tie-rod/drag link end kits for just over $100.
As you learned, it's one of the major safety components of a 60. Not to push
the maintenance issue, but from the picture, those grease boots don't look like
they've seen grease in a LONG time...I am OCD, and grease mine about 4 times
a year.

Glad you are ok, and no one got hurt. Keep the truck, buy new tie rod/drag link
ends, then go through all the safety stuff and do the maintenance!

Hell, it seems it's not even safe to be driving a NEW Toyota now'a days...:bang:
 
Thanks for letting me vent and for the good wishes. About to order the parts...

Any other "surprises" I might want to look into?
 
Last edited:
Glad to hear you are alright Harry. Sounds like you dodged a bullet.

Now might be a good time to rebuild the knuckles if you haven't in a while and check the spring bushings.
 
hwi1s0n said:
Thanks for letting me vent and for the good wishes. About to order the parts...

Any other "surprises" I might want to look into?
Click to expand...

you might open the glove box and view the zirk diagram and check everything that was supposed to be greased. If one joint failed the rest might not be so far behind.
 
landtank said:
you might open the glove box and view the zirk diagram and check everything that was supposed to be greased. If one joint failed the rest might not be so far behind.
Click to expand...

2nd that, good call on the diagram. the u-joints on the drive shaft make sure they are greased well and don't have any free play

might want to drop the rear drive shaft and check the condition of the joints. pooping out a drive shaft at hi speed is no fun time just ask kyle:eek:
 
Same thing happened to me 16 months after I bought my 86 /60 ! Only it was in the tunnel leaving Logan Airport !!! Got all new sheeit...from Man-A Fre !!
 
That fitting is adjustable. There is a slot on the end for a large flat bladed screw driver. You can tighten the fitting. Part of regular maintenance.

The "link joint knob" separated from the drag link. There are 2 ball stud seats, a spring and spring seat with an adjustment plug. You tighten the plug on the end of the drag link.

SOR has a complete kit for $155, includes all the tie rods and drag link.

Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 094 Front End

Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 094 Front End

Or just the drag link.

Don't feel to bad, most of us (me included) do not follow the maintenance schedule religiously.

Glad no one was hurt.
 
I ended up getting all of the little pieces (springs, seats, boots, etc.) from the dealer for around $85. I'm having my mechanic buddy do both sides to be safe(r). Come spring I'll get the grease gun going.

I guess what I found most alarming is that it can't be designed in such a way as to not come apart when it starts to fail.
 
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