Time for a Taco (7 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Threads
29
Messages
364
Location
Coopersburg Pa
Hello Taco lovers!

I currently have a 94 Landcruiser and a diesel BMW wagon. Work commute has changed and so has my to do list at home and I find myself looking for a pickup and will be selling the 328d. I was offered a 2500 Ram diesel with a 6spd but its awful for daily driving. Now I'm looking at various second gen Tacomas. I like the idea of a manual trans, I miss driving stick.

These look like fairly bulletproof trucks except for something with the HVAC system, temp flap or something along those lines? Besides rust, anything to look out for?

Thanks all
 
Hello Taco lovers!

I currently have a 94 Landcruiser and a diesel BMW wagon. Work commute has changed and so has my to do list at home and I find myself looking for a pickup and will be selling the 328d. I was offered a 2500 Ram diesel with a 6spd but its awful for daily driving. Now I'm looking at various second gen Tacomas. I like the idea of a manual trans, I miss driving stick.

These look like fairly bulletproof trucks except for something with the HVAC system, temp flap or something along those lines? Besides rust, anything to look out for?

Thanks all
I’ve owned two second gens. I sold my 2005 2wd long bed pre runner at 205k miles. Only issues it had was driveline vibration and the ac blower motor resistor. Both were easy fixes. I’ve never experienced the ac flap issue in any of mine.

My current is a 2009 trd off road. It also developed driveline vibration but I recently replaced the entire driveshaft so that’s taken care of. Both of mine were always in Texas so rust wasn’t an issue.

I will say though, if you are worried about rust, get a 2010+ because the frame coating was better from then on.

I’ve also owned two fzj80s and one hzj73. Imo that Tacoma is more reliable than a 80 series but less durable if that makes sense. The 70 series is both more reliable and more durable than both the 80s and Tacomas.

With 33’s, a 2.5 inch, lift a nearly 300 lb bumper/winch setup, I get 18mpg highway at 75mph.
 
I’ve owned two second gens. I sold my 2005 2wd long bed pre runner at 205k miles. Only issues it had was driveline vibration and the ac blower motor resistor. Both were easy fixes. I’ve never experienced the ac flap issue in any of mine.

My current is a 2009 trd off road. It also developed driveline vibration but I recently replaced the entire driveshaft so that’s taken care of. Both of mine were always in Texas so rust wasn’t an issue.

I will say though, if you are worried about rust, get a 2010+ because the frame coating was better from then on.

I’ve also owned two fzj80s and one hzj73. Imo that Tacoma is more reliable than a 80 series but less durable if that makes sense. The 70 series is both more reliable and more durable than both the 80s and Tacomas.

With 33’s, a 2.5 inch, lift a nearly 300 lb bumper/winch setup, I get 18mpg highway at 75mph.
Thanks for the info. I was unaware of change in frame coating on 10 and newer. There is an 11 not far from me, 6spd, trd that looks fairly clean (some surface rust on the floors from underneath) but frame looks good. The dealership "coated" it so I need to look at it in person closely.

The tacoma would be for mild offroad (fire roads etc) and mainly daily driving. The 80 is staying and is for nice day cruising/exploring.
 
If you buy a 2011, then you should check if it needs this service campaign work performed:
Special service campaign 20TC01

It doesn't show up as a "recall", so the dealer at first will say they don't know what you're talking about when they try to look it up. Tell them it's reported as an "optional" special service campaign and the code 20TC01 (or give them a printout out the PDF below), and they should be able to look it up.


It's a pretty big work item, but 100% free.
 
If you buy a 2011, then you should check if it needs this service campaign work performed:
Special service campaign 20TC01

It doesn't show up as a "recall", so the dealer at first will say they don't know what you're talking about when they try to look it up. Tell them it's reported as an "optional" special service campaign and the code 20TC01 (or give them a printout out the PDF below), and they should be able to look it up.


It's a pretty big work item, but 100% free.
Thanks for the heads up!
 
Another question regarding bedsize, is it worth it to find one with a 6ft bed or is the 5ft bed acceptable? It'll be used for around the house projects/landscaping/etc and it would be nice to be able to put my motorcycle in the back if need be (or bring more home!)
 
I might be an exception to the rule on this one. Everyone nowadays seems to go for the 5ft bed. But I'm in the camp of: If you're getting a truck, then make sure it can carry random crap really easily. E.g., I don't see how people can fit all their camping stuff in a 5ft bed, or even carry home lumber & other supplies from home box stores very easily (especially lumber).

If you think you'll ever have drawers in your bed, then you'll probably want as much space in your bed as possible so you can fit a reasonable amount of stuff on top of your drawers, too. Every way I look at it, I will always prefer 6' bed.
 
Another question regarding bedsize, is it worth it to find one with a 6ft bed or is the 5ft bed acceptable? It'll be used for around the house projects/landscaping/etc and it would be nice to be able to put my motorcycle in the back if need be (or bring more home!)
I’ve bad both. The 5ft bed is more stable in rain and icy weather. Early years did not come with traction control. If you’ve ever driven a long wheelbase 2wd truck on an icy highway with no traction control and no weight in the back, it’s not fun.

Also, 5 ft bed will fit in a garage whereas 6ft bed probably won’t.
 
I’ve bad both. The 5ft bed is more stable in rain and icy weather. Early years did not come with traction control. If you’ve ever driven a long wheelbase 2wd truck on an icy highway with no traction control and no weight in the back, it’s not fun.

Also, 5 ft bed will fit in a garage whereas 6ft bed probably won’t.
Never considered that angle. Appreciate your input.
 
To all who replied, test drove a 2010 quad cab today with 152k on it. No real rust I could see, frame looks like it was replaced. The hitch is a bit crusty but everything else is clean. Mechanically it seems solid and good to go. The price makes my head spin a bit, 17k for a 14 year old truck but, I get it to a degree.

The miles don't really scare me but I just want to make sure I'm not jumping into anything too stupid here.

Posting the only rust I could find.

My gut says it's a solid choice (I hate the color but whatever) but don't know enough about these to blindly jump in.

PXL_20240404_161010260.jpg


PXL_20240404_161124626.jpg
 
To all who replied, test drove a 2010 quad cab today with 152k on it. No real rust I could see, frame looks like it was replaced. The hitch is a bit crusty but everything else is clean. Mechanically it seems solid and good to go. The price makes my head spin a bit, 17k for a 14 year old truck but, I get it to a degree.

The miles don't really scare me but I just want to make sure I'm not jumping into anything too stupid here.

Posting the only rust I could find.

My gut says it's a solid choice (I hate the color but whatever) but don't know enough about these to blindly jump in.

View attachment 3598827

View attachment 3598828
If that’s a 2wd sport that’s expensive.

I’m willing to let mine go for the right price. I priced it high but it’s OBO.

 
Last edited:
Seems about right to me at today's prices. Especially since you're in PA, I imagine getting a rust-free truck up there would normally bump the price up quite a bit?

I paid $20k for my 2012 a few months ago with 100k miles, 4WD, Off-road trim. I don't know how much price difference to expect between Sport vs Off-road.
 
Seems about right to me at today's prices. Especially since you're in PA, I imagine getting a rust-free truck up there would normally bump the price up quite a bit?

I paid $20k for my 2012 a few months ago with 100k miles, 4WD, Off-road trim. I don't know how much price difference to expect between Sport vs Off-road.
Going to head back this saturday and see if I can strike up a deal on trading in my 328d wagon.

I couldn't stop smiling while driving the Tacoma. It has the same old Toyota feel as my 91 x-cab but actually has enough power to merge with highway traffic.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom