tightened my steering box...question.

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May 31, 2010
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I tightened my steering box today. The truck drove great with new shocks, new springs and rebuilt axle/birfields. But it had just a little play in the steering wheel that i noticed on the highway. 3 out of 4 of my tie rods have ripped boots. But when my GF got in the truck and rocked the steering wheel back and forth they are all tight. I will replace them in the future but for now they are GTG. Then found out about adjusting the steering box. So today i lifted the front end off the ground. I broke the 17mm nut free with a long extension and a breaker bare. The screw in the middle was very hard to turn and turned with the nut a lot. Eventually i backed the nut off some and grabbed it with vice grips (could not find my 17mm wrench). Then i turned the screw with a screw driver gripped with another set of vice grips. I turned it some, tightened the 17mm nut and checked the steering turning lock to lock. It was hard to tell how much i was turning the screw. When i tightened the 17mm with the socket i could not see if the screw was turning with it. Also I think i turned it a 1/4 turn or so maybe 3 or 4 times. The screw did get easier to turn and it is possible that my first time it did not move at all. But i was moving for sure on the last two times. But i might have turned it more or less. I know if you over tighten it you can have major wear on the internals. I did that about three or four times and every time i felt no binding or tight spots. I figured i had done it enough for now, it felt a little better.
I drove it home on the highway and let me say it was SO much better. But i have a little voice in my head worried that i might have turned it too much. When i had the front end up off the ground, i had the engine turned off and turned the wheels lock to lock. By the last time i adjusted it i THINK maybe it felt like it was taking a little more effort to turn the steering wheel. But it was the same all the way through the range of motion. No binding, no change from center to full turn. It might have just been my imagination or paranoia. Also it does still recover when exiting a corner. From my understanding those are the things to look for. Does that sound right? Would you guys think all is well? I just know some people turn theirs like 1/8 of a turn. I might have turned mine 3/4 to 1 1/2 (doupt i turned it that much but hard to tell). I guess i am asking if i went to fare with it what would i feel? How would i know?
 
I've definitely heard horror stories with 40 gearboxes. I've always been told don't touch it :D

But if I do, only a 1/4 turn. Problem is if you go to far, that's it, you can't go back.
 
Anybody got pics of this?
 
Post a pic of your screw depth. I believe most that have been adjusted are around flush with jam bolt. best to feel for binding while truck is on jack stands in front. Mine was real loose too. A 1/4+ turn made it feel sooo much better. Been good for over a yr.
 
Unless the gearbox on the Toyota is different from other mfg. the general rule when adjusting the sector gear is to loosen the lock nut, hold it, tighten the adjusting screw snug (not tight), hold the set screw in position and tighten the lock nut with a box or open end wrench. The way the OP tightened with a socket will probably result in an over tightened situation which will accelerate wear of the sector gear. Also, the wheels should be in the straight forward position when doing the adjustment.
 
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Thanks guys. I will look at the depth. I cant say exactly how much i turned it. It was very stiff in the locking nut. So i think the first few times i did it i think i might have just been Turing the lock nut and screw together. essentially not chancing anything. But after that i broke the nut free and then grabbed it with a little pair of vice grips to hold it still while i turned the screw a little. Because of this it is very possible that i only turned it a total of 1/4 -1/2 turns. But as i said, with the front wheels up in the air there was NO binding at all. No tightness near full lock compared to straight ahead.
 
I just looked at the screw. I have at least 1/8 inch or more sticking up. Not at all flush. Maybe a full turn or two to make it flush.
 
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I recently adjusted mine. I turned the screw about 1/2-3/4 of a turn. I have about the same amount protruding thru the nit. I think your fine.
 
At what mileage are people feeling like they need to adjust the screw?
 
161K for me.
 
Haven't felt the need, even at 321k
You might be surprised. My steering felt fine before, felt better after! Mine obviously had never been adjusted & the get slacked up a little from wear.
 
I have all brand new steering components cept for the gearbox. It feels just as good as the day i bought it. I did this in my 40 and I noticed the difference. But there was an issue. I don't have that issue on the LX.
 
I have all brand new steering components cept for the gearbox. It feels just as good as the day i bought it. I did this in my 40 and I noticed the difference. But there was an issue. I don't have that issue on the LX.
Do you sell a kit that has all of the steering components?
 
I think I’m going to try this. I replaced my whole front end steering parts buts it’s still sloppy. I guess worst case I will be buying a new steering box but I was tempted to anyway
 
It's actually not a very good idea at all to mess with that adjustment. I don't pretend to remember all the reasons why, so you'll have to do a search to find out, unless someone else wants to chime in. Bottom line is that particular area doesn't wear, and tightening it will cause premature wear and damage. If you have issues with the gearbox, a rebuild is the only way to fix it, as the parts that do need adjusting are inside. On the positive side, if you do have play in the box, rebuilding it to spec makes it good as new, and the parts (seals) are cheap.
 
I think I’m going to try this. I replaced my whole front end steering parts buts it’s still sloppy. I guess worst case I will be buying a new steering box but I was tempted to anyway

There are a lot of other components that can contribute to sloppy steering. How tight are your wheel bearings? How much caster do you have?
What condition are your radius arm, upper and lower control arm, and panhard bushings ? Are all these mounts tightened to specified torque? It will save you a lot of $$$ if you diagnose the problem first instead of just throwing money/new parts at things that MAY be perfectly good.
 
There are a lot of other components that can contribute to sloppy steering. How tight are your wheel bearings? How much caster do you have?
What condition are your radius arm, upper and lower control arm, and panhard bushings ? Are all these mounts tightened to specified torque? It will save you a lot of $$$ if you diagnose the problem first instead of just throwing money/new parts at things that MAY be perfectly good.

That is good point. The wheel bearings are fresh along with rod ends etc but I should get some new bushings in it. My issue is the steering wheel has at least a couple inches of play before anything happens. It’s been like this since I bought it with 75k miles on it. I’m not use to vehicles that are not rack and pinion but nonetheless it’s sloppy. I do have a little more caster than I should as I added spacers after springs and I’m just using bushings. I’m going to order some manafre brackets soon and hoping that with some a bushing overhaul brings it back to acceptable. I would like to drive another well sorted 80 series some time to gauge what it should be. I don’t drive mine often and was going from Prius or race car into FZJ80
 
Agreed with @inkpot and @-Spike-
I'd be looking for other issues first.

Bushes, radius arm and panhard.
Bearings, wheel and king pin (trunion)
Caster. Factory spec is 2° +/- 1°. 3° is good, 4° is betterer!

There's not a lot of scope to adjust the steering box. I've played with it before, a 1/4 turn is about the max before things bind up. And it had little impact on steering feel.
New trunion and wheel bearings, New TREs, firm bushes makes a big difference.
 
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