Tie Rod Threads Stripped Needs Tapped (1 Viewer)

[Hornd]

The Drivers side Tie Rod end would not come loose from Steering Arm. Tried Heat and Juice about 4x and started to burn rubber boot0. Tried Hitting Castle Nut with Sledge, Tried Putting Jack under Rod and hitting with sledge. Broke off a pickle fork. Finally got End free, but it was now ruined. I strongly recommend you rent a Puller from Autozone if your going to do this job. I have one and used it on other side with success.

Mr T foolishly thought 3" of fine threads would be a good idea on a suspension part that is always in the elements. Tried 4X to get end out of tie rod using everything known to man minus Nuclear Energy. Ended up heating red hot with Acetylene and finally twisted end out. Ordered new MOOG Tie Rod End (Japanese made by Three Five, $31). To my delight new tie rod will only thread in about 1" in then bind. Ordered a 23x1.5 Tap on Ebay ($32) and will be chasing the threads.
If anyone else has this misfortune, I would be willing to let them borrow the tap at the $6 price of shipping it back. I know what it is like to need the right tool and not be able to get it.

The knuckle job has domino-ed into a major project, but doing it right is essential.
Also noticed that rubber brake lines are cracked, so ordered outer and inner and will be replacing those and changing the brake fluid. Heat and vice grips are essential if your cracking the brake lines loose. Be patient and they will give up.

I will post my knuckle feedback on an existing thread, but overall it's a pretty straight forward job. There are some tricks that will simply your life.

I really wish there was a club close by so I could learn some tricks and help some guys out, but it is what it is.

 

[Pin_Head]

Some times it is easier to just get a new tie rod assembly from Toyota when your old one is that far gone. It is surprisingly inexpensive.

 

[2fpower]

Or look at Mr. Slee's heavy duty ones.

 

[half k cruiser]

Some times it is easier to just get a new tie rod assembly from Toyota when your old one is that far gone. It is surprisingly inexpensive.

Like how inexpensive ? I have a set of tie rods sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed. I'd rather just install them into a new inner rod then f^ck about with the old one.

 

[Pin_Head]

It has been a while since I bought one, but about 4 years ago they were under $100 without the ends. The Slee HD one is only slightly more.

 

[Golgo13]

Make sure you have the correct tap... If I recall correctly, one side is LH thread the other side is RH thread...
Another option for the tap is to grind some sharp notches along the old TRE threads and use the TRE as a tap to clean the old threads.

The fine threads allow for minimal wall thickness of the Tie Rod itself since it is hollow. And there are a LOT of threads to prevent stripping the rod. If it was designed that way, there must have been a good reason. I don't know what all they did to study it, but I'm sure it was the most economical approach which still guaranteed function and safety of the parts. The Slee rod design is probably more robust, but also much more expensive in mass production.
Don't get me wrong. I'm not saying the parts are cheap quality, but every penny counts over the volume/life cycle of a vehicle.

 

[Rwhat]

Another option is go with the trail gear steering kit. However your sector shaft become the weak link.

 

[Hornd]

Make sure you have the correct tap... If I recall correctly, one side is LH thread the other side is RH thread...
Another option for the tap is to grind some sharp notches along the old TRE threads and use the TRE as a tap to clean the old threads.

The fine threads allow for minimal wall thickness of the Tie Rod itself since it is hollow. And there are a LOT of threads to prevent stripping the rod. If it was designed that way, there must have been a good reason. I don't know what all they did to study it, but I'm sure it was the most economical approach which still guaranteed function and safety of the parts. The Slee rod design is probably more robust, but also much more expensive in mass production.
Don't get me wrong. I'm not saying the parts are cheap quality, but every penny counts over the volume/life cycle of a vehicle.

I hear ya, but Chevy uses Coarse threads on their trucks with a Jam nut and it works great. Only thing I can come up with is that they wanted a finer adjustment. Replacement was not considered.
I ordered the 23x1.5 Tap and confirmed my threads headed up hill which means RH threads.
One end is RH other is LH
Let me know if you need to borrow when you reassemble your front end. I'm sure I will never use it again.

 

[Hornd]

It has been a while since I bought one, but about 4 years ago they were under $100 without the ends. The Slee HD one is only slightly more.

Gonna try the $32 tap since my other end is still good and likely will not come out.
Rock has a rod for about $63 shipped for the last resort.

I know, I know, I know! it doesn't come in White and Red box so failure is eminent, but I'm willing to take my chances on a threaded piece of pipe.

 

[Pin_Head]

The OEM one doesn't come in a red and white box either. It just had a product tag and plastic wrap.

 

[Golgo13]

I'm waiting for someone to chime in with "I just threaded a piece of galvanized pipe from Lowe's...works just fine and only cost me $3"

If I had thought of it before, I would have had hex shapes welded to the tube at both ends to facilitate tightening/loosening/adjusting the Tie Rods

 

[LS1FJ40]

Let's stick to only pimping my employer, Lowe's. References to the orange store are akin to Heep references.

 

[Golgo13]

Let's stick to only pimping my employer, Lowe's. References to the orange store are akin to Heep references.

Fixed it, sorry! My Sister-in-Law works there also. My Brother used to work there, but his personality began to clash with the local mgmt so he found a job more suited to himself.