Tie rod end stuck in the pitman arm

[Biche]

I'm currently replacing my tie rod ends (TRE), I successfully remove all TRE except the one in the pitman arm! I was using a pickle fork and a BFH for all the others, but this one does not come out.

I'm pretty new to the automotive DIY, so what others tricks can I try to remove that TRE (maybe heating something)?

Thanks guys!

 

[dallen341]

use a tie rod puller (tool). While under pressure of the puller, smack the end of the pitman are with a hammer.

 

[rusty_tlc]

what dallen said

This is the tool you need;

 

[Biche]

Thanks guys,

I have this puller for the pitman arm but the "claw mouth" is too large for the other end. I'll go get one at the auto part store during lunch and see if I can make it work.

I'll keep you posted.

 

[lehiguy]

I found the magic fix for this. Loosen the drag link end and remove it from the ball stud. Turn the steering wheel to the left so the pitman arm is out in the wheel well. Cut a piece of pipe that will fit tightly between the garage floor and the underside of the pitman arm without contacting the ball stud. Place the top of the ball stud's nut just above the threads of the ball stud to protect it from mushrooming, then whack it with a BFH. Works every time. If you have converted from the adjustable drag link ends to a typical TRE (requires a new arm as the hole diameter is different) wedge something under the arm just behind the TRE.

 

[Biche]

I've was unable to find a TRE puller at any of my auto part stores... I'll try to whack him a little more or I'll try to borrow one...

 

[Elbert]

For Pitman arm removal...I had to use the pickle fork method on mine and use the BFH and hit the pickle fork with the hammer like you could care less if it breaks or comes loose...what-ever happens first. Really had to use some force. I think when I removed mine a year or so ago...it was the first time it had ever been off in 20+ years.

 

[Biche]

For Pitman arm removal...I had to use the pickle fork method on mine and use the BFH and hit the pickle fork with the hammer like you could care less if it breaks or comes loose...what-ever happens first. Really had to use some force. I think when I removed mine a year or so ago...it was the first time it had ever been off in 20+ years.

I wasn't planning to remove the pitman arm.... As a lot of others parts on the truck, it's been a long time since the last maintenance(if any) and the canadian winters did nothing to help. Everything is stuck in rust and it's a PITA to do any maintenance... but what can I do, I love my LC!

 

[Granite Grinder]

This is the one you need, just pulled mine on Sunday
Mine is in a kit: http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/asthan14.html
Astro Front End Service Set
Quite inexpensive and better than a pickle fork, if you want to salvage the rubber boots.

 

[Biche]

I've seen that kind of tool around, but the one I've seen look pretty cheap!

The MyToolStore is asking for an order of a minimum 150$, and being from Canada the shipping will be coslty(with customs and fees).

This is the one you need, just pulled mine on Sunday
Mine is in a kit: Astro Pneumatic Automotive Suspension Service Tool Sets
Astro Front End Service Set
Quite inexpensive and better than a pickle fork, if you want to salvage the rubber boots.

 

[Granite Grinder]

I got the kit from Lordco, a BC auto parts place. Check around at local auto parts stores, not so much Canadian Tire, but smaller local places. Don't ask for it by name (Astro ***) mine has a different branding but same kit. I got the entire kit for the price of a decent pitman arm puller, supposedly guaranteed for life (ya sure). But, I haven't broken any of the tools and as some will attest to, getting a pitman arm off a steering box can be challenging. I'm not in the garage business, but the dozen or so times I've used individual pieces of this kit, it has performed perfectly.
Actually, I see Alltrade, K-D Tools and Performance all sell the same kit. I think mine was Performance
Google: Front End Service Kit, should be able to find a dealer in QC

 

[Rigger]

Rusty, Granite, you're both wrong. This is the one you need:

 

[Kynot62]

Another vote for the BFH and lehighguy's suggestions. All I would add is to heat it pretty good with a propane torch. Mine came right out. Just don't forget to leave the nut on or you will mangle the threads. A bit of penetrating oil won't hurt either.

Best part of this method is that you more than likely own the needed tools...

Tony

 

[Granite Grinder]

Rigger, the one that comes in the front end kit that I have looks identical to the one you posted, I just grabbed the first photo off Google that looked similar.

Tony, I've used your method many times, then I got the "kit", now pneumatics do all the work.

 

[csd4682]

Another vote for heating it and leaving the nut on and beating it like you hate it. Its not an attractive site for the neighbors, but I promise it works. Mine were on for 25 years and didnt want to budge. Once I put the torch and hammer to them they all came right out.

 

[Biche]

Another vote for heating it and leaving the nut on and beating it like you hate it. Its not an attractive site for the neighbors, but I promise it works. Mine were on for 25 years and didnt want to budge. Once I put the torch and hammer to them they all came right out.

This is a newbie question: I have the torch, but you heat what, the pitman arm or the TRE threaded part stuck inside?

And for beating it like I hate it, I can assure you that it help building my patience!! I'm on this case since monday...

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

You want to heat the arm up.

I found that beating on it using a pickle fork wasn't working for me, so I ended up using two pickle forks.
Since the first fork was already beat into place I just took the second one began the same process again and it popped right off.

 

[ntsqd]

I've found that putting a big sledge hammer on the far side of the pitman arm, held up tight against the arm, while hitting the arm on the near side As Hard As I Can with a 2-3 lbs sledge will pop them loose. Sometimes you need a helper to hold the far side sledge. I usually leave the nu on, but only by a couple turns and spray some penetrant oil around the stud on the top of the arm.

Your goal is to actually elastically distort the tapered hole and use the taper itself to drive the stud out. About the time where you think "this isn't doing anything", one more hit will pop it loose.

 

[Kynot62]

Rigger, the one that comes in the front end kit that I have looks identical to the one you posted, I just grabbed the first photo off Google that looked similar.

Tony, I've used your method many times, then I got the "kit", now pneumatics do all the work.

Phil

Air powered pullers! Thats cheating...

Biche Sometimes just heating the arm and the tapered shaft with the torch helps break down the corrosion that is holding the two together. In a perfect world a cold taper and a hot pitman arm would just fall apart but since the two are already stuck that ain't gonna happen. Heat things up good and smack it. You could also try heating it up, then soak with penetrating oil and come back tommorow for a fresh start.

Tony

 

[woytovich]

Rusty, Granite, you're both wrong. This is the one you need:

This OTC puller is miraculous and worth EVERY penny!