Tie rod end "calibration" adjustment. (1 Viewer)

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Western Slope Colorado
Just before taking the car to the paint and body guy I went ahead and replaced the TRE's. After installation I followed recommendations from info gathered on this site as to how to adjust them. Tighten screw till it bottoms out and then back off half a turn, replace pin, done! Well that is super easy. Problem was when I screwed the end in it went way passed the holes in which the cotter pin goes thru and still didn't bottom out. I saw no point in going any further as putting in a cotter pin would do no good as the slot was well beyond it doing any good. It's almost as if parts are missing like the seats. Anyhow, as I mentioned the car is now at the paint shop, finally after waiting a year, so the car is not in my possession to do any real time diagnoses but I wanted to get the ball rolling if anybody had thoughts on this problem so I could deal with it when I get the car back.
 
What I'm talking about is the adjustment screw in the end. I'm thinking what I need to do is when I get the machine back is just take the thing apart and see what's up.
Thanks for the responses.


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From the FSM it looks like the order of assembly of the parts is different depending which side of the pitman arm is being assembled.

As I mentioned above, if the whole assembly is too loose (maybe the spring has lost compression or is not tall enough, you can use a nickel as a spacer. I guess you would put the space on which ever side best centers the ball stud.

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What I'm talking about is the adjustment screw in the end. I'm thinking what I need to do is when I get the machine back is just take the thing apart and see what's up.
Thanks for the responses.


View attachment 3138443
Also, looking closely at the diagram you posted, it has the seat 45475 between the spring and the ball seat 45373 which is not the same as in the FSM.
 
The nickel fixes that. Had the same issue and my Toyota shop stacked 2 washer’s between cotter and adjustment slot head. Tightening down then backing off 1/4 availed me hell of a gap. I followed FSM on everything and i nailed alignment

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This is great information and what I was looking for. Who knew a nickel could fix this.
Thanks again for the advice.
 

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