My advice if you want to turbo it regardless, is rebuild it... get one without rust as your main priority, plan/budget to rebuild it with 1HZ-T pistons, put on all the 1HD-T gear on it and you should have a reliable engine that won't overheat.
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Too long to wait, says 11/1992The troopy above has some dollars invested plus looks like it still has factory paint.
Nice truck.![]()
Firstly, 1HZ-T and 1HD-T are IDI and DI respectively, so will never be the same. Can't remember prices, and you'll have to do your homework locally to get labor costs, but new 1HZ-T pistons and conrods (same part as 1HD-T) rebuilt gasket kit and sleeves are not that expensive (order from Engines Australia, they ship worldwide, if you give me a few days I can find my invoices), and the labor itself you could get quoted where you are, if it's not turboed already get a 1HD-T turbo and exhaust manifold, they go cheap these days if you're on a budget... budget a SS 3" exhaust system (another local exhaust shop quote) and 3" dump pipe ($60 on ebay) as you really would be nuts to go to all the trouble and not let it breath better... in terms of air/oil/coolant hoses you can go cheap and make them up yourself or buy all the 1HD-T parts for a factory finish. Mine's apart tonight so here's a pic of my 1HZ converted to factory spec 1HZ-T. Goes awesome, and still pretty good at 16,700' which is the highest I've driven it@damienperu good catch on the 11/1992, don't want to wait another year. My focus is finding a 1HZ, dual factory tanks, factory a/c, rust free (as possible), and low miles. Anything beyond that is a bonus but those are the "musts". Out of curiosity what would you anticipate to spend on a rebuild like you are talking about? If I understand the 1HZ is the same block as the 1HD-T? So doing what you are suggesting would produce a 1HD-T? or would it be different in some ways? Thanks.
Yeah a few in OZ have done the change from 1HZ to 1HD-T, same block. A lot of F'ing around though and more cost for new head, pump, injectors etc, then there's electrical wiring issues, would be easier transplanting a 1HD-T... converting to 1HZ-T is much easier. There's a thread in the diesel section where many others and I have posted info on the elusive factory 1HZ-T parts and configuration. With that info and a medium budget it's the best option I think for NA 1HZ owners if you're not looking to use it on a dragstrip, both extra power and Toyota reliability, although the latter is still just in theory as I really need to do 300K in mine before I can say that! Although my research found dozens of 93-94 factory 1HZ-Ts still getting around.@damienperu, I knew the 1HZ is idi and the 1HD-T is di. I didn't know if you were saying you could take a 1HZ block and turn it into a 1HD-T di engine. That is one nice looking 1HZ-T, I would be interested in your invoices at your convince. Really no rush here at all, I don't even have a Troopy yet...
Thanks
im no expert nor have much experience on northern winter survival but I would initially go a cheap external plugin heater until you figure out a heap of other stuff, the webasto type solutions take a lot of space and are fairly definitive, so I wouldn't put one on until I had most other things worked outThanks for clarifying that, I will read some more (I don't see this "self-education" ever ending). On the cold climate frontier, It seems a hose heater is the way to go. That said a block heater, battery blanket, and oil pan heater all seem to have merit as well. So not sure what would be the best route to be nice to a 1HZ on cold start mornings.
On that note... how about a little solar panel dedicated to trickle charging? dumb idea or no? I am preparing for these same issues with mine and am trying to come up with a solution other than webasto that is good for when plug ins are not around ( on the mountain / in the woods )nobody seems to do a installed trickle charger for battery. This is what I would use instead of a battery blanket. A trickle charger excites the molecules in the acid therefore preventing the acid/water from freezing, and a side benefit is that the battery voltage/charge is maintainedA battery blanket heat has to transfer up or across a cold acid/water, therefore you may or may not get full warming of the fluid in a timely manner. Don't get me wrong, battery blanket's I guess work since everyone does them. A pad has to heat up, a wrap/blanket would be attacking from all 4 sides. Just my take
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Well, when you are away from electric power, you won't have anything available to heat up your engine when it is -20F and you leave it alone for 8 hrs to go skiing? Unless you pack a generator. Solar charger probably will not do any good with what short light you have during the winter, when it is overcast/snowing?On that note... how about a little solar panel dedicated to trickle charging? dumb idea or no? I am preparing for these same issues with mine and am trying to come up with a solution other than webasto that is good for when plug ins are not around ( on the mountain / in the woods )
I honestly would park it during winter months. I thought I wanted to drive my HZJ77 all year too but I just bought myself a cheap Subaru instead. Way less hassle, a lot cheaper, and my Subaru is much safer on the highway with AWD as well. All the roads around here if not plowed will be way too deep to drive anyways. Special outings I can insure the Cruiser for the occasion but otherwise it sits parked. Winter is hard on these things and they very difficult and extremely expensive to replace