Things I like to do to my 1999 Land Cruiser. (1 Viewer)

[phi1osopher]

I decided to start a thread sharing details of things I like to do to my LandCruiser. Some of this is because I do neat things that others might like to see or read about. Some of this is because I like to look back and see the stuff myself. Some of it is because someday I may sell it, and since I do so many interesting things it might improve the selling value. I bought the truck about 2 years ago on Feb 26th, 2018 for about $5500, and it was a bone-stock mall-mom car. When I first serviced the rear locking differential the original factory grease glob was still on the gears, or in other words it had never even been activated. Not even once...

Until I get caught up I will come back and edit this and post mods and repairs in random order.

 

[phi1osopher]

The other day (Jan 13, 20020 @265,100 miles) I installed a set of professionally rebuilt Denso 23250-20030 12-hole injectors, replacing the 265,000 mile stock injectors in my '99 LC. It was an easy 1.5 hr "plug and play" job. I bought them for $150 shipped from a reputable injector shop. Price included verification they are authentic OEM Denso injectors, plus a flow sheet showing they were static and dynamically flow tested within 2% of each other. Seemed like a reasonable price. Seller offered different packages: <3% matched sets for $100, <2% sets for $150, or <1% setsfor $200... I went with a 2% set.
Got them from HERE on evilBay
*Shrugs*

Performance wise, they basically seem the same to me as my old ones!

They're maybe -- MAYBE -- a tiny bit smoother. I dunno. After an 'ECU reset,' and 250 miles of modest driving (a tank full of gas), I am not feeling a huge improvement. Then again I've never claimed to have an especially sensitive butt; my 'seat of the pants dyno' probably isn't very trustworthy.

I performed the injector swap along with some other things as preventative maintenance, hoping for small performance gains and a fuel economy increase; my MPGs were getting pretty bad. Fully loaded, going 85mph with my KTM 690 motorcycle on a hitch carrier was yeilding around 8mpg... This one fill-up since the swap gave me MPGs more like what normal owners are getting in armored, lifted trucks with roof racks under modest driving conditions: I got 12.2 mpg going about 65mph (w/o the bike). (The mpg numbers were correctly calculated with GPS verification, tire adjustments, etc.)

Anyway, all in all, I'm glad I swapped mine out, and I can't wait to see if the dyno results reveal anything interesting!

also this:

My experience with 12 hole injectors. Awesome!

Did you use dirty deeds?? I bought a set of rebuilt Denso's from ebay with a lifetime warranty..

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[phi1osopher]

4.28.2018 248,647 miles
$98 ARB-Clone Snorkel install. It turned out great.

$98 ARB-Clone Snorkel install -- It turned out GREAT!!

Quick Intro: I picked up a $5k 1999 stock, locked LC about two weeks ago, and I am building it up for a bit of overlanding. I'm fairly mechanical -- used to be a Porsche service manager, but really am more of a Toyota man at heart. I also co-lead off-road dualsport motorcycle trips through...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Rolocado]

The other day (Jan 13, 20020 @265,100 miles) I installed a set of professionally rebuilt Denso 23250-20030 12-hole injectors, replacing the 265,000 mile stock injectors in my '99 LC. It was an easy 1.5 hr "plug and play" job. I bought them for $150 shipped from a reputable injector shop. Price included verification they are authentic OEM Denso injectors, plus a flow sheet showing they were static and dynamically flow tested within 2% of each other. Seemed like a reasonable price. Seller offered different packages: <3% matched sets for $100, <2% sets for $150, or <1% setsfor $200... I went with a 2% set.
Got them from HERE on evilBay
*Shrugs*

Performance wise, they basically seem the same to me as my old ones!

They're maybe -- MAYBE -- a tiny bit smoother. I dunno. After an 'ECU reset,' and 250 miles of modest driving (a tank full of gas), I am not feeling a huge improvement. Then again I've never claimed to have an especially sensitive butt; my 'seat of the pants dyno' probably isn't very trustworthy.

I performed the injector swap along with some other things as preventative maintenance, hoping for small performance gains and a fuel economy increase; my MPGs were getting pretty bad. Fully loaded, going 85mph with my KTM 690 motorcycle on a hitch carrier was yeilding around 8mpg... This one fill-up since the swap gave me MPGs more like what normal owners are getting in armored, lifted trucks with roof racks under modest driving conditions: I got 12.2 mpg going about 65mph (w/o the bike). (The mpg numbers were correctly calculated with GPS verification, tire adjustments, etc.)

Anyway, all in all, I'm glad I swapped mine out, and I can't wait to see if the dyno results reveal anything interesting!

Oooo pink

 

[phi1osopher]

Rebuilding the front CV axles. Again. I'm at 265,538 miles.
I finished the passenger side yesterday, and will be doing the driver's today. Sharing this for my own records, as well as to clarify a few details I have to look up each time I do this job -- there are parts specific to the inner and outer boots, and they are not clearly labeled, nor is the info easily available online. See last photo for all this info. It's good to remember that the front left and right CV axle assemblies are identical, as are all their parts. I would not exchange parts from the left axle to the right axle, but I would "rotate" the axles, swapping the left and right sides once every 100,000 miles.

All this effort being put into axle rebuilding begs one important question, the veritable elephant in the room, if you will: Why on earth would I spend all this time and money to rebuild my axles when there are readily available aftermarket replacements that cost significantly less than just the rebuild kit's boots... and then I wouldn't even have to do all the super greasy-gross work??!! The answer really is simple: the OEM Toyota LandCruiser parts are incredibly good and the aftermarket ones generally suck. Two years ago, when I first had a boot failure on my LC, I tried to buy several different replacement aftermarket axles, and none of them worked. A long and painful story later I finally figured out that the one my local parts suppliers were offering simply didn't even fit correctly. This lead to multiple mid-road-trip road-side CV Axle swaps, which is a miserable thing to try to navigate.... During this process I also observed where the Toyota CV Axles have 6 large "ball bearings" on each end, the aftermarket ones I opened up to inspect each only had 3; plus the aftermarket's shafts were of a smaller diameter (weaker), the flanges didn't seal correctly with my LandCruiser's front differential, the flange teeth wern't quite the same, they vibrated, etc, etc. Truly, my (sadly very extensive) experience with aftermarket CV axle assemblies was very disappointing. Or rather, I perhaps should say it was inspirational: The hard parts designed for our LandCrusiers so completely exceed what is the industry standard that unless the part is specifically designed and purposefully built to exceed the very high stands already in place on these trucks, it is very difficult to otherwise find an equivalent.
This is why I am rebuilding my Axles with an OEM boot kit.

HERE is a useful parts diagram for front axle assembly, etc.


I noticed both of my axles' outer boots were torn when doing a pre-trip inspection for an upcoming week-long excursion to Big Bend. This surprised me because I rebuilt both of my CV Axles using all Toyota OEM parts June 2018; this was about a year and a half and 12,000 miles ago -- They should not have failed so quickly!! ...actually I did not use all OEM parts: I 'upgraded' to the "highly recommended" McMaster stainless hose clamps at the time, putting them on all boot connections on both axles. (As a side not, It should be noted these hose clamps are directional, with a "right" and "left" side -- the worm gear assembly slightly favors one side over the other. If I were to used these again, I believe it would be profitable to ensure the clamps are installed with the worm gear housing as far from the boot as possible, especially on each boot's "small end" where there is a chance of gear-to-boot contact when fully flexed.) I will be double checking how I had mine installed on my driver's axle as I rebuild it today (didn't think to look yesterday).... I am not really sure what caused my boots to fail this time: maybe the 3" suspension lift, maybe the hose clamps, or maybe something else all together. Whatever the cause, I've decided to use all OEM parts this time around, including the clamps.
Because its cold, wet and utterly miserable outside, I am not planning on doing a photo walk through for the job; its basically requiring all my motivation to just get out there to do it (hence this long-winded post!): I have four and a half days before I am scheduled to leave for Big bend, and will be at work for 48 hours of those....

Here a few random tips to make the job a bit easier. (I am assuming you already have access to how to do the basic logistics of the job. HERE is a generally helpful thread with lots of info.):
Before removing those boots remember that for the inner CV joint, both its inner and outer bearing races are directional. Use a paint pen or permanent marker to mark the inner bearing race so you can reinstall it correctly on the splined CV Axle shaft.
When rebuilding my axles, once they are stripped, clean and ready to reassemble, I find it's easiest to do it using a bench vice, holding the axles vertically. I drop fewer of the big ball bearings and lose less grease this way. When disassembling, we access it all by removing the inner assembly first, but once disassembled we have to assemble the outer first, and then finish with the inner joint. Also, I have a tendency to get excited and forget to put the inner boot's small clamp onto the shaft before starting to install itss inner's joint assembly... Before installing the inner assembly's 'inner bearing hub,' make certain the outer joint assembly is 100% finished and clamped. Then, before proceeding, make sure the inner assembly's 'small inner boot clamp,' the boot, and the joint's 'outer metal bearing race' are all on the shaft (in that order). NOTE that the 'outer bearing race' is directional, with the skinny end toward the wheel, and the wider end toward the differential. Also, remember to install that 'Snap-Ring/ Circlip' for the inner joint's bearing hub (on the end of the axle shaft) before you start applying the grease!
By the time everything is cleaned and the bearings and hubs are re-greased, I use almost 1 whole roll of cheap 'dollar store' paper towels per axle.
This also is a good place to say I highly recommend investing in a quality set of "Snap-Ring/ Circlip" Pliers; you don't need them very often, but when you do -- such as jobs like this -- you remember why you really need good ones!
I probably should be replacing the "cone washers" this time around, but because I am pressed for time I don't have the ability to order them before I leave for Big Bend, so I'll just have to do it next time. (x6 cone washers for each hub, 12 total, Toyota Part Number 42323-60020.)


In this pic, the inner is on the left, and the outer is on the right. I like to clearly label parts I've worked on or rebuilt with a grease-proof paint pen. I do this with oil filters, and all sorts of things. It seems to simply make life a little easier years later when I am looking at things and wondering when I last fiddled with them...

Toyota Re-Boot kit for my 1999 LandCruiser is Part number 04427-60120, and costs about $70 from most online vendors.

Includes everything needed for the boots.

Okay. This is IMPORTANT! There are parts specific to the inner and outer boots, and they are not clearly labled, and the information is difficult to find online! The smaller, more rubbery boot is the inner boot, and it uses the shiny-stainless boot clamps and grease #90999-94241. The larger, more plasticy one is the outer boot, it uses the more stout yellow clamps and grease #90999-94242. The yellow clamps require a special hose clamp tool -- I have this one at the house, and while it works correctly, it is hard to use and honestly kind of sucks compared to a more professional tool... nevertheless, its sufficiently robust and I'll probably continue to use it until I actually need to upgrade.

And that's that.

 

[nissanh]

Do you find any play between your OEM CV axle and the outer flange? I replaced my CV's with aftermarket and installed new flanges (OEM) and I find a small play. I still have OEM CV's with me and might go with rebooting both.
Thanks for the post.

 

[phi1osopher]

My OEM CV axles have a tiny bit of "in and out" free play, and no radial free play.

 

[gregnash]

My OEM CV axles have a tiny bit of "in and out" free play, and no radial free play.

This, in out, play is normal. You can put an M8x1.25 bolt into the end of the axle and you should be able to move slightly, a few millimeters but not much more.

 

[100d ua]

In picture #3 on your original post, what are you using to power your lights on the awning? I plan on doing a lot of camping and the number 1 thing I hate is when it's night and you cant see anything throughout the camp site.

 

[phi1osopher]

In picture #3 on your original post, what are you using to power your lights on the awning? I plan on doing a lot of camping and the number 1 thing I hate is when it's night and you cant see anything throughout the camp site.

I went shopping for some solar LED sting lights. I think I got them on evilBay for about $15. Their battery lasts about 8-10 hours, and self-charge during the day. I had a hard time finding some with a 'warm' color. =)

 

[100d ua]

I went shopping for some solar LED sting lights. I think I got them on evilBay for about $15. Their battery lasts about 8-10 hours, and self-charge during the day. I had a hard time finding some with a 'warm' color. =)

Awesome. I'm trying to decide between some type of power inverter/generator or something solar but have little experience with solar power.