94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
You need to make sure that the seal around the thermostat is seated properly. Check the torque or as much of a hassle as it will be, take everything apart and inspect it, then reassemble.
Thermostat - install / symptoms / overheating
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Yeah, I already have it apart. Heading to the dealer to buy another one. Apparently its not that uncommon to get a bad one sometimes: Thermostat gasket leaking
Thermostat Housing Leak
Since I've changed my thermostat/ gasket I've had a problem with a leak. I originally cranked to the factory torque spec plus a bit more and noticed the leak. I pulled it apart and set it to exactly the factory spec, voila the problem went away. It's been about a month without a leak and now...
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shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Yeah, I already have it apart. Heading to the dealer to buy another one. Apparently its not that uncommon to get a bad one sometimes: Thermostat gasket leaking
Thermostat Housing Leak
Since I've changed my thermostat/ gasket I've had a problem with a leak. I originally cranked to the factory torque spec plus a bit more and noticed the leak. I pulled it apart and set it to exactly the factory spec, voila the problem went away. It's been about a month without a leak and now...
Have any pictures of the leaking housing? Mine was replaced by the dealer about 50k ago and it's leaking at the housing too. It's a small leak, just gets red and Krusty at the seam but still think it shouldn't happen. I also see some Krusties where the round part goes in where the o-ring is supposed to seal it. I am going to replace the o-ring and fipg when I do the thermostat
Unfortunately no pictures. I was in a bit of a hurry to get it finished due to a long trip the following day.
I checked my engine bay after a long 700 mile road trip in hot conditions, OAT above 100 degrees for most of the driving up to 113 degrees. Anyway, this is the 2nd or 3rd time I have seen pink crustys on the tip of the thermostat housing. I took a pic of it as well as the lower radiator hose and clamp. If I am getting fluid here is it leaking from the top of the tstat housing??? There is no evidence around the tstat housing where it connects to engine block, just pink crusty at the tip of the dome in this pic.
I had something similar happen but it was a faster leak.
If you live near any Autozone or O'Reilly's, get their loaner pressure tester (The autozone near me doesn't have them anymore).
Set the pressure somewhere between 15-20 psi and let it sit for ~30 mins. Look to see where it's coming from.
IMO, this is the hose leaking due to insufficient clamping pressure.
What happened with mine, when I changed the hoses (didn't use OEM) the original clamps couldn't make up what must have been a few millimeters of difference in the outer diameter of the hose. So there was slightly less clamping force. Replace the original clamp with a worm clamp and you can adjust/put more pressure on the hose to seal it up better.
If you live near any Autozone or O'Reilly's, get their loaner pressure tester (The autozone near me doesn't have them anymore).
Set the pressure somewhere between 15-20 psi and let it sit for ~30 mins. Look to see where it's coming from.
IMO, this is the hose leaking due to insufficient clamping pressure.
What happened with mine, when I changed the hoses (didn't use OEM) the original clamps couldn't make up what must have been a few millimeters of difference in the outer diameter of the hose. So there was slightly less clamping force. Replace the original clamp with a worm clamp and you can adjust/put more pressure on the hose to seal it up better.
Thank you my plan was to replace this lower hose(the upper as well) and new hose clamps for nice PM. If that doens't solve it I will go next step. The tstat housing looks very clean besides this tip/dome.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
If you use the AutoZone pressure tester I'd be curious to see what your experience is with it. I set it to 17.1 per the FSM for my 99 LX and my radiator started leaking like crazy. It may have been slowly leaking already, I don't know. But it was also an OEM replaced by the dealer less than a year prior.
Also I couldn't get it to work on the radiator cap. The new OEM cap held pressure past when it was supposed to release so maybe that tester I got was bad?
Brian any update on this... I am having the same issues and was wondering if you ever came across a solution? I am having the same issues.
PS although worm style hose clamps will work if you are in a pinch I was told using the specific hose style clamps that you currently have installed are recommend when securing radiator hoses. Use the same style you have ust a new one.
I thought to do the thermostat as I have room after removing the starter motor. I drained the coolant from the radiator and both engine drains. Only 11 liters came out.
I checked both tees and they look like new.
Now, I can't get the bottom nut of the thermostat housing loose. The 12mm spanner slips, the top are fine.
I checked both tees and they look like new.
Now, I can't get the bottom nut of the thermostat housing loose. The 12mm spanner slips, the top are fine.
Got it out.
Is it best to get a Toyota or from another brand?
Is it best to get a Toyota or from another brand?
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Go OEM Toyota.
Just bought a genuine Toyota thermostat and gasket, all good. 28 AUD and 10 AUD
natedawg607
SILVER Star
Longtime lurker. Just wanted to thank the wisdom of the crowd in replacing the thermostat and it fixing running hot. Great resources on here.
2005 LX with 153,000 and have owned for 12 years with regular maintenance. Towed on the highway and noticed temps getting up to 217F using CarScanner App via ELM dongle, and even touched 222 on a 96+ degree day with high humidity in Georgia. After that consistently monitored temps and was running 194-203F city and hwy with no load in 80F OAT temps. Then on a long highway trip (no load / no towing), High 80's, hit 217F at 75 mph, approx 2400 rpms. 400 mile day.
I've consistently read on here normal operating temps and there wasn't much feedback on what 2005 model should be, I thought 190's was OK as the engine might have to run hotter due to emissision standards? Anyway I cleaned radiator in vehicle with garden hose and RV hotwater heater cleaner attachment (long narrow nossle) to get in tight spaces only $13 on amazon vs the Radiator Genie tool advertised. Had recent Coolant flush and Coolant level was up to the radiator neck and in overflow tank. Changed Radiator Cap. No difference in coolant temps.
Ordered NEW OEM Thermostat, gasket and coolant, replaced and found the current thermostat to have a 2004 date stamp and rubber was worn- meaning this was the Original Thermostat! (New OEM Thermostat had 2021 date stamp- all other markings the same) Old Thermostat photos attached.
Since replacement, I am seeing 184-190 F Coolant temps, without much fluctuation on city vs Hwy or speed. YAY!
OAT = high 80F. Hit 194 once over the last week, while sitting in bumper to bumper traffic mid 90F high humidity day. Per the instructions be sure to check the coolant in radiator and overflow tank the next day as I had to add about an inch in the radiator to fill up neck to brim and add more to overflow tank. Overall replaced 1 Gal of coolant between loss during install, burping, and refill the following day. A few days later on recheck coolant level appears to be fine. Will check one more time in a week.
2005 LX with 153,000 and have owned for 12 years with regular maintenance. Towed on the highway and noticed temps getting up to 217F using CarScanner App via ELM dongle, and even touched 222 on a 96+ degree day with high humidity in Georgia. After that consistently monitored temps and was running 194-203F city and hwy with no load in 80F OAT temps. Then on a long highway trip (no load / no towing), High 80's, hit 217F at 75 mph, approx 2400 rpms. 400 mile day.
I've consistently read on here normal operating temps and there wasn't much feedback on what 2005 model should be, I thought 190's was OK as the engine might have to run hotter due to emissision standards? Anyway I cleaned radiator in vehicle with garden hose and RV hotwater heater cleaner attachment (long narrow nossle) to get in tight spaces only $13 on amazon vs the Radiator Genie tool advertised. Had recent Coolant flush and Coolant level was up to the radiator neck and in overflow tank. Changed Radiator Cap. No difference in coolant temps.
Ordered NEW OEM Thermostat, gasket and coolant, replaced and found the current thermostat to have a 2004 date stamp and rubber was worn- meaning this was the Original Thermostat! (New OEM Thermostat had 2021 date stamp- all other markings the same) Old Thermostat photos attached.
Since replacement, I am seeing 184-190 F Coolant temps, without much fluctuation on city vs Hwy or speed. YAY!
OAT = high 80F. Hit 194 once over the last week, while sitting in bumper to bumper traffic mid 90F high humidity day. Per the instructions be sure to check the coolant in radiator and overflow tank the next day as I had to add about an inch in the radiator to fill up neck to brim and add more to overflow tank. Overall replaced 1 Gal of coolant between loss during install, burping, and refill the following day. A few days later on recheck coolant level appears to be fine. Will check one more time in a week.
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Longtime lurker. Just wanted to thank the wisdom of the crowd in replacing the thermostat and it fixing running hot. Great resources on here.
2005 LX with 153,000 and have owned for 12 years with regular maintenance. Towed on the highway and noticed temps getting up to 217F using CarScanner App via ELM dongle, and even touched 222 on a 96+ degree day with high humidity in Georgia. After that consistently monitored temps and was running 194-203F city and hwy with no load in 80F OAT temps. Then on a long highway trip (no load / no towing), High 80's, hit 217F at 75 mph, approx 2400 rpms. 400 mile day.
I've consistently read on here normal operating temps and there wasn't much feedback on what 2005 model should be, I thought 190's was OK as the engine might have to run hotter due to emissision standards? Anyway I cleaned radiator in vehicle with garden hose and RV hotwater heater cleaner attachment (long narrow nossle) to get in tight spaces only $13 on amazon vs the Radiator Genie tool advertised. Had recent Coolant flush and Coolant level was up to the radiator neck and in overflow tank. Changed Radiator Cap. No difference in coolant temps.
Ordered NEW OEM Thermostat, gasket and coolant, replaced and found the current thermostat to have a 2004 date stamp and rubber was worn- meaning this was the Original Thermostat! (New OEM Thermostat had 2021 date stamp- all other markings the same) Old Thermostat photos attached.
View attachment 3028372View attachment 3028373View attachment 3028374
Since replacement, I am seeing 184-190 F Coolant temps, without much fluctuation on city vs Hwy or speed. YAY!
That's always a good feeling when a fix actually has a noticeable change.
Any more info on the OBD2 scanner you are using? I've been thinking it might be good to have one just to check on engine temps and if possible transmission temps.
natedawg607
SILVER Star
AGREED!
Using the Car Scanner App, hooked up to an ELM Wifi Dongle. You need to connect to it via the wifi on your phone (like finding a network) they might make a bluetooth version too. I like the app b/c you can customize the dashboard and can also view Trans temp etc. and it works with the existing dongle I already had.
Amazon product ASIN B07THWN4FW
Using the Car Scanner App, hooked up to an ELM Wifi Dongle. You need to connect to it via the wifi on your phone (like finding a network) they might make a bluetooth version too. I like the app b/c you can customize the dashboard and can also view Trans temp etc. and it works with the existing dongle I already had.
Amazon product ASIN B07THWN4FW
Oh nice. I like the idea of it being wifi since I can keep my bluetooth connected for audio.
Damn so all I need is that little part on Amazon + download the app? For some reason I thought these were more expensive and it involved a bunch of messing around to get stuff like trans temps.
natedawg607
SILVER Star
I might have paid the $5 or $10 one time to upgrade the app, once you input the make /model of your vehicle, you can select what you want to monitor via menus and there are 3 ATFs to view, by process of trial and error, I pulled the ATF reading, and it allows you to swipe across multiple dashboards that you can adjust size /locations of the systems you are monitoring.
I also tried the AutoDoctor app using the wifi dongle to confirm coolant temps, but the free version is very limited and to get all the data you'd want it was subscription based versus a one time upgrade fee.
I think there are more bluetooth options these days, but I didn't want to buy another dongle after I removing the AHC as there was less to monitor too!
I also tried the AutoDoctor app using the wifi dongle to confirm coolant temps, but the free version is very limited and to get all the data you'd want it was subscription based versus a one time upgrade fee.
I think there are more bluetooth options these days, but I didn't want to buy another dongle after I removing the AHC as there was less to monitor too!
Ah good info, thanks. Makes me wonder why people are paying way more money to buy scan guage and other makes that are $150+
