Getting things back together from timing belt job and noticed my thermostat housing is pitted. Would you guys reuse this or replace it? If replace risk aftermarket I can get tomorrow from local auto part store or order the OEM part?
Thermostat housing pitted. Reuse or replace?
- Thread starter WestTX28
- Start date
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I'd install a new unit (stay with an OEM unit). When I did the T-belt, I reused the pitted housing for about 6 years before I went with a new housing.
Reuse. You can likely go through another timing belt cycle using that. Imho.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
I'd replace it with a new OEM unit (PN:1632150020 www.partsouq.com has it for about ~$31).
Or, you can clean it really well with a wire brush, wash with an alcohol and then fill those pittings with JB weld and file it to the shape.
Replace, last thing I’d want to leak is coolant, overheating is a sure fire way to ruin a trip and a UZ
- Thread starter
- #7
My NAPA has an aftermarket (Four Seasons) in stock. Is a part like this that much riskier to go aftermarket? No moving parts or electrical bits, Just a piece of aluminum.
I'll exercise some patients. I just went ahead and ordered a new OEM one. A few more days won't kill me.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
The pits in goose neck of water inlet cap. Will, fill with coolant, and pits will enlarge and deepen. The hose will also become pitted. Best practice, replace both hose and cap when pitted. Done and good for another ~25 years, if properly serviced.
Always replace the thermostat seal (O-ring fixed around thermostat), even if not replacing thermostat. Torque cap nuts in stages, to 14ft-lbf, making sure seal (with T-stat) get even pressure and doesn't slip down and pinch. As always, jiggle valve within 15 degrees of TDC.
Check the hose also, don't use if pitted.
Second best:
I use on 1282B FIPG bandaid. When replacing a part not practical or not best use of labor at the time.
Fill the pits/holes with FIPG 1282B. Creating a bandaid. As a temporary fix, that does last and last a very long time.
Note: Only one place that calls for FIPG 1282B assembly while wet or it use at all. The water inlet housing to water pump.
We scape, the FIPG 1282B flush while wet in first 3 minutes. Only working to fill in pits. Letting cure/dry overnight before assembling. Do not assemble wet.
Head pitting under water bypass joint.
Water inlet to water bypass. Pitting here, is mostly due to adding FIPG with o-ring, assembling wet. We do not add any FIPG to O-ring, ever. We just create FIPG 1282B bandaid in pits, when we must.
Cleaned, 1282B Pit filled, razored used to scrape flush and dry, ready for assembly.
Block under water pump gasket, is one of those that always gets a bandaid if pitted.
Always replace the thermostat seal (O-ring fixed around thermostat), even if not replacing thermostat. Torque cap nuts in stages, to 14ft-lbf, making sure seal (with T-stat) get even pressure and doesn't slip down and pinch. As always, jiggle valve within 15 degrees of TDC.
Check the hose also, don't use if pitted.
Second best:
I use on 1282B FIPG bandaid. When replacing a part not practical or not best use of labor at the time.
Fill the pits/holes with FIPG 1282B. Creating a bandaid. As a temporary fix, that does last and last a very long time.
Note: Only one place that calls for FIPG 1282B assembly while wet or it use at all. The water inlet housing to water pump.
We scape, the FIPG 1282B flush while wet in first 3 minutes. Only working to fill in pits. Letting cure/dry overnight before assembling. Do not assemble wet.
Head pitting under water bypass joint.
Water inlet to water bypass. Pitting here, is mostly due to adding FIPG with o-ring, assembling wet. We do not add any FIPG to O-ring, ever. We just create FIPG 1282B bandaid in pits, when we must.
Cleaned, 1282B Pit filled, razored used to scrape flush and dry, ready for assembly.
Block under water pump gasket, is one of those that always gets a bandaid if pitted.
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