The truck won't start, is 30A fuse a reliable solution? (1 Viewer)

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Hello everyone,

I'd like to share something about an issue regarding the non-start issue. (1999 LC)

A few weeks ago, my car had a cranked but not starting issue, no matter how many times I tried.
I replaced the 20A FUSE with a new one, even though the old one seemed fine, and it immediately started.

Tonight, the same thing happened again. Even after replacing the 20A fuse with a new one, it still wouldn't start.

In the end, I used a 30A fuse instead of the 20A. After one failed attempt, the car started successfully for five consecutive times. I'll continue testing tomorrow.

Do you think this situation is related to the fuel pump or fuse block(no wear or melted sign)?

Is it safe to keep the 30A fuse instead? Will this be a long-term solution?

Any information would be helpful
thank you guys
 
 
Just upping a fuse size is never a good solution, there's something downstream that's causing the fuse to blow and you're simply masking that by going to a larger fuse. Great way to get an electrical fire.
thanks !!
Do you think it's still electrical issues related or could due to a bad fuel pump?
 
^^^^^ This and @medtro has the solution for you at a fraction of the price of a new fuse box as described in earlier post. It has worked well for many early model hundy owners.
 
Just upping a fuse size is never a good solution, there's something downstream that's causing the fuse to blow and you're simply masking that by going to a larger fuse. Great way to get an electrical fire.
I now switched back to a 20A fuse, and it works again, so I guess maybe it's something related to a poor connection under the fuse box.
 
Hi, I've checked your post.
Theoretically, is your kit avoiding poor contact issues in the fuse box by rerouting power from elsewhere?
Will it work for my situation?
I switched back to 20A and it works fine now
 
Hi, I've checked your post.
Theoretically, is your kit avoiding poor contact issues in the fuse box by rerouting power from elsewhere?
Will it work for my situation?
I switched back to 20A and it works fine now
It does look to me as if the power wire is pulled from a different terminal and delivered it to the EFI relay.
 
FWIW I had a very similar issue that I tried trouble shooting for a while and never got a quick reliable fix. As others have mentioned, I ended up having to swap out the whole fuse box that wasn't cheap. We couldnt find any real damage at the first few glances but once the indy removed the old one and took it apart, you could clearly see that the fuse box was burnt and melted a bit. Its been a few years and the issue has been resolved.
 
FWIW I had a very similar issue that I tried trouble shooting for a while and never got a quick reliable fix. As others have mentioned, I ended up having to swap out the whole fuse box that wasn't cheap. We couldnt find any real damage at the first few glances but once the indy removed the old one and took it apart, you could clearly see that the fuse box was burnt and melted a bit. Its been a few years and the issue has been resolved.
Have you ever tried those bypass kits?
 
Hi, I've checked your post.
Theoretically, is your kit avoiding poor contact issues in the fuse box by rerouting power from elsewhere?
Will it work for my situation?
I switched back to 20A and it works fine now
If this is directed to me, then ...... my kit redistributes power from the battery, bypasses the poor circuitry in the fuse box, reroutes power to the same destination.
 
^^^^^...and it works well.
 
Alright, everyone, I think I finally found and solved the problem.

The reason is that sometimes I would use a key that wasn't programmed.

Yes, it was that simple... I hope this can help others 😂 😂 😂
 

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