- Thread starter
- #81
I don't know why people eliminate them its the samein Egypt mostjust bypass them rather than replace.
The Nomad 1994 80 Project Car
- Thread starter Vulkyn
- Start date
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Someone has removed the LSPV on your truck.
Load Sensing Proportioning Valve
It's not that terrible if you don't have it. It would be like all vehicles prior to 1990 that don't have it.
- Thread starter
- #83
Finally got around to sort out the rear brakes .... what a complete cluster *&&$
Brake lines where not attacked properly to the diff, instead bypassed directly so it was flexing instead of being bolted to the diff causing leaks.
Disk was beyond worn, so much so it was actually broken! the brake pistons was worn out excessively meaning it drove a LOT of km with no / worn pads.
Hand break links, springs everything was disintegrated, oil seals where gone and who ever did the crapy patch work should be displayed in public for flogging ...
Right moving on, back disc cover replaced that has proper brake line attachment points, replaced brake oil hoses, new oil seal, new rear master brake calipers, new disks(couldn't find original
).
Changed oil used higher viscosity to improve oil pressure, new filter and removed the crap re-usable one it had before.
Cleaned Idle control valve, RPM now is 600-800 instead of 1200, lubricated the springs for throttle linkage which was stopping it going back to normal RPM.
LC80 is a legend ! kept me going even with all this crap
Brake lines where not attacked properly to the diff, instead bypassed directly so it was flexing instead of being bolted to the diff causing leaks.
Disk was beyond worn, so much so it was actually broken! the brake pistons was worn out excessively meaning it drove a LOT of km with no / worn pads.
Hand break links, springs everything was disintegrated, oil seals where gone and who ever did the crapy patch work should be displayed in public for flogging ...
Right moving on, back disc cover replaced that has proper brake line attachment points, replaced brake oil hoses, new oil seal, new rear master brake calipers, new disks(couldn't find original
). Changed oil used higher viscosity to improve oil pressure, new filter and removed the crap re-usable one it had before.
Cleaned Idle control valve, RPM now is 600-800 instead of 1200, lubricated the springs for throttle linkage which was stopping it going back to normal RPM.
LC80 is a legend ! kept me going even with all this crap
- Thread starter
- #85
Yah had oil leak from the transmission cooler, thinking it was the power steering (which is also leaking some where!) i kept toping the power steering.
The mechanic caught the leak and I desperately an engine clean so I can at least see if there is leakage.
Hopefully the occasional hectic shifts was due to the low oil, we shall see.
Repaired tail gate not closing, replaced inside handle and patched up the latch. It needs a good slam to close but i will need to replace it eventually.
The mechanic caught the leak and I desperately an engine clean so I can at least see if there is leakage.
Hopefully the occasional hectic shifts was due to the low oil, we shall see.
Repaired tail gate not closing, replaced inside handle and patched up the latch. It needs a good slam to close but i will need to replace it eventually.
- Thread starter
- #86
So the odd shifting is gone, seems the low oil is the issue.
Now I am smelling exhaust again, last time that happened there was a bad gasket, but I have changed all of them the only one left is the main exhaust from the engine (exhaust manifold?).
So will follow Chrisfix and create a positive pressure from the exhaust, add soapy water and see where the bubbles are.
Now I am smelling exhaust again, last time that happened there was a bad gasket, but I have changed all of them the only one left is the main exhaust from the engine (exhaust manifold?).
So will follow Chrisfix and create a positive pressure from the exhaust, add soapy water and see where the bubbles are.
- Thread starter
- #87
So the diagnoses was the air flow sensor was not working properly, cleaned and installed again didn't have a chance to test fuel efficiency again as of yet.
Removed front bumper, grill and started some minor fixing / cable changing. Some of cables are in horrible condition with insulation breaking exposing wires.
I need to replace the metal support frame as its in very bad condition its preventing proper bolting of all the interior and exterior parts.
I had to do some make shift bolting to keep things from swaying around including AC air fan, ac radiator etc.
The problem is that all the fixes done on the car seems to have been out of spec, they just "winged it" rather than properly repair the issue. This has a led to a series of screws, bolts etc that has nothing to do with how the car was supposed to be bolted.
Even grounding rather than swap the cable, they just added additional ones.
After replacing the main engine ground cable, the car seemed to idle very low even at cold. I am not sure if that is from the previous cable or the new one.
Recently the car would idle at 1000 - 1200 when cold and runs at 700 - 800 when warm, it now starts at 600 and seems to struggle a little to keep running.
I am also surprised with the yellow earth cable which seems very small in comparison to the other side. I don't know how much negative cables or how many connections the car should have but i really need to do some reading on this. Whoever worked on this car should be flogged in a public square ......
Removed front bumper, grill and started some minor fixing / cable changing. Some of cables are in horrible condition with insulation breaking exposing wires.
I need to replace the metal support frame as its in very bad condition its preventing proper bolting of all the interior and exterior parts.
I had to do some make shift bolting to keep things from swaying around including AC air fan, ac radiator etc.
The problem is that all the fixes done on the car seems to have been out of spec, they just "winged it" rather than properly repair the issue. This has a led to a series of screws, bolts etc that has nothing to do with how the car was supposed to be bolted.
Even grounding rather than swap the cable, they just added additional ones.
After replacing the main engine ground cable, the car seemed to idle very low even at cold. I am not sure if that is from the previous cable or the new one.
Recently the car would idle at 1000 - 1200 when cold and runs at 700 - 800 when warm, it now starts at 600 and seems to struggle a little to keep running.
I am also surprised with the yellow earth cable which seems very small in comparison to the other side. I don't know how much negative cables or how many connections the car should have but i really need to do some reading on this. Whoever worked on this car should be flogged in a public square ......
ppc
M Go Blue
When you disconnect the battery the ECM resets and needs to re-learn parameters so it can take several cycles of starting and short trips for the idle to be back to normal.
You need to protect those wires as they pass through the holes in the battery box. That material is very abrasive. Either purchase the OEM grommets or or make you own by slitting rubber hose lengthwise.
You need to protect those wires as they pass through the holes in the battery box. That material is very abrasive. Either purchase the OEM grommets or or make you own by slitting rubber hose lengthwise.
- Thread starter
- #89
Perfect that makes sense, I did disconnect it for a long time thanks mate.
The chafing problem is every where in the car, I am searching for OEM battery boxes as the batteries are not even strapped in even just lose.
In the mean time I will add a rubber protection on the holes until its resolved.
The chafing problem is every where in the car, I am searching for OEM battery boxes as the batteries are not even strapped in even just lose.
In the mean time I will add a rubber protection on the holes until its resolved.
- Thread starter
- #90
Took apart the front bumper and grill and tried to align the mess inside.
First step will wire down the aluminum bumper and repaint it, I will attempt to do it at home with a friend might as well learn and I am sure I will not mess it up more than how it is now.
Once I find the metal support frame I will change headlamps and grill, nothing is aligned or can be aligned until this is done.
Took quite some time to bolt things a little, almost everything was moving around.
First step will wire down the aluminum bumper and repaint it, I will attempt to do it at home with a friend might as well learn and I am sure I will not mess it up more than how it is now.
Once I find the metal support frame I will change headlamps and grill, nothing is aligned or can be aligned until this is done.
Took quite some time to bolt things a little, almost everything was moving around.
- Thread starter
- #91
The winch is in poor condition, wiring needs to be redone and i am quite concerned on the metal top guard (if that is what its called) it seems the winch was installed too low meaning there is constant force upwards.
I also noticed that it wount engage the clutch to move freely so it can be pulled out if need be.
The wire had also melted a smaller one above it, not sure if the cables are too small or there is resitance but it seems too much heat was generated when winch was used.
I also noticed that it wount engage the clutch to move freely so it can be pulled out if need be.
The wire had also melted a smaller one above it, not sure if the cables are too small or there is resitance but it seems too much heat was generated when winch was used.
- Thread starter
- #92
Well lots of updates, i took apart the winch and it was just a mess. Seems the gasket failed and water rusted the bearing that disengages the clutch enabling free rotation.
Took me ages to get it free (rubber hammer and lots of rust removal ftw!) cleaned as best as i could and sanded with low grit to remove the rust and groves.
Cleaned gears but i need to clean old gasket and i am unable to find a new one. So either cut out or polyurethane gasket.
- Thread starter
- #93
Removed headlights and middle support. Every thing was either not bolted properly, missing parts or missing screws.
Put in half measures until i order new parts but at least everything is bolted down now.
Had a lot of fun cutting out a small part that bolts the ac radiator which was lose. Its the first time i do something like this and found it extremely enjoyable.
I will order originals but i kind of loved finding temp solutions.
Put in half measures until i order new parts but at least everything is bolted down now.
Had a lot of fun cutting out a small part that bolts the ac radiator which was lose. Its the first time i do something like this and found it extremely enjoyable.
I will order originals but i kind of loved finding temp solutions.
- Thread starter
- #94
Bolted down a lot of parts, much less rattling and i can actually close the hood with out excessive force now after bolting things down
Amazing amount of neglence and lack of care, the car is too warped for further repair. I will need to swap both fenders and the whole support front structure if i want things to fit properly.
Amazing amount of neglence and lack of care, the car is too warped for further repair. I will need to swap both fenders and the whole support front structure if i want things to fit properly.
- Thread starter
- #96
Engine is giving off all wrong signs as follows:
- Low Oil pressure
- Ticking sound of worn piston rings at low idle.
- White when cold, black when engine reaches operating temperature.
- Revving spills black tar on the ground.
How often do you drive it?
- Thread starter
- #98
Not often, been doing work over the last 2 weeks and i did reset the ecu as i left the cables out for a while.
Usually weakened drive only
So some of the things you mention, i experience when i let it sit a lot... Not black smoke but the white smoke sometimes. I think i have a timing belt tensioner issue potentially which makes noise when cold. You could be right on the needing a rebuild, just also may be you not driving it regularly enough.
- Thread starter
- #100
Yah it behaved better when i drove it more. I think the ecu reset as well.
But honestly i have little trust in anything done previously in the car so i would rather open it up and face whatever gremlins there are. I do know piston rings are worn and its losing oil pressure.
i did change to a thicker viscosity oil and that helped increase oil pressure.
But honestly i have little trust in anything done previously in the car so i would rather open it up and face whatever gremlins there are. I do know piston rings are worn and its losing oil pressure.
i did change to a thicker viscosity oil and that helped increase oil pressure.
