The Next Vortec Swap Thread

[phishincruisin]

I used polyurethane Energy Suspension link bushings housed in .250" wall 2" DOM tube. These were welded to .120" wall 1.75" DOM which connected to the frame. I also boxed in the top of these for added strength. I drew up and had the motor side plates cut out of 1/4" plate, to which I mounted some 3/16" plate tabs. I used 9/16" grade 8 bolts to hold it all together. I'm not worried about breaking them, and they were pretty darn easy to position. I used the same setup for my custom tranny crossmember, but had the bushing on the crossmember and tabs on the frame.
The owner of a local shop recommended matching compounds for the tranny and engine mount. He said it helps keep things in place better. I haven't had any issues yet and I enjoy chirping the tires shifting into 2nd.

 

[Clonestocker]

Got from vacation and time to get busy. Remove the stock engine mounts today. Also this is a Gen#1 Vortec. Which is a standard small block Chevy w/Vortec Heads. Don't want to confuse people about the motor type. DBLEON is doing a late model 5.3 Vortec which has different stuff going on within the swap. Hense two threads.

Photo #1: Pass Side grind the top and rear welds and break loose.
Photo #2: Bend back mount toward the front and grind the inside weld and mount is off
Photo#3: Drivers side grind front and rear welds break loose. Loosen steering box ang move aside to grind top weld and mount is off.

It took about 45 minutes to do this. I used a 4" makita grinder with a metal gringing blade. Will be posting more later. matt

 

[dbleon]

Matt, Its def. centered fron to back. Sorry for bad pic.

 

[Clonestocker]

Thanks Dan

 

[Clonestocker]

Some more work done. here's some pictures of the stock cross member re-drilled to accept the stock T/C mount that has been split for the bolt width on the adapter. It looks like I'll be able to put the T/C back in the stock location. This also means you won't have to make any driveline modifications. There are a few other issues w/FJ62 mount on the AA adapter but I'll show you how I attack those when I get there. Forgot to take a critical base line measurement on disassembly which is crankshaft C/L offset between the frame rails and height above the front cross member. Anybody willing to take some measurements for me ?

 

[Clonestocker]

Made some more progress today. Was hoping for more but owell. Ended up for pulling the fuel lines/rear heater lines and the lines for the vacuum T/C. With the mounting of everything in the stock place I found out that the passenger side exhaust manifold is a little long to fit (hit the firewall). So I pulled it off for now and will start the search for one that a little bit shorter out the back. The drivers side fits fine. The first couple of pictures shows the adapter and cross member in the stock location w/mount trickery. This is really cool since it means you don't have to change driveshaft lengths. When I build the mount I will post pics and explain what I did. In another thread OyajiJon's posted some pictures of his build where they slotted the cross member hole about 1/2", to move everything toward the passenger side. I think I see why this was done and will know for sure when I get the motor in the vehicle straight. This is it for now. later matt

 

[Elbert]

I think I read somewhere that someone reccomended the manifolds from a caprice with 5.7. OR like some of us have donw you may end up running the "rams horn" style manifold like came on the old school corvettes.

 

[Clonestocker]

Got some more work done today. Got the chassis level front to back and side to side. Here's some stuff on the mounts I'm doing. They're from a 1991 Suburban 4x4 (mounts/brackets). First picture is laying out the passenger side. This is the back side of the mount. I just cut it square allow the straight edges (second pic). The third picture will show that with some creative trimming It will be a clean mount set up. The front side of the mount has a taper and it looks like a little piece of filler metal will be needed. The motor is not set to position yet. I think I will be slotting the cross member holes to help square the motor up better. Not there yet though. later matt

 

[Clonestocker]

Here's what kept me from getting more done today. Son had 2 studs snap off. Had to help him remove. Check out the GOODS.

matt

 

[dgreenbluet]

Here's what kept me from getting more done today. Son had 2 studs snap off. Had to help him remove. Check out the GOODS.

matt

I hope that engine isn't on stock internals!

 

[Clonestocker]

Made some headway today. Mounts put together and tacked to the frame ready to weld. Sorry guys no scab plates. Decided not to after all the input on my scab plate thread. Here are the pictures from today. These are modified Chevy brackets.

1) This picture shows the top being cut off for the upper plate.
2) Next picture shows mount mocked up before welding.
3) Welded Pass Side Mount.

 

[Clonestocker]

More Pictures:

1) Welded Drivers Side mount (note: hole for steering shaft cover)
2) After being set on mounts .1* off level side to side
3) Motor setting at 3* degrees front to back

 

[Clonestocker]

More Pictures:

1) Shows mount in place bolted to engine.
2) Engine out ready to weld.

This is it for now. matt

 

[dbleon]

Lookin good my friend!!!

3* is exactly what I ended up with. This puts you only 1* off from rear pinion (2*).

Have you checked hood and oil pan clearances?????

 

[Clonestocker]

Dan,

My rear pinion was at 4*. When the motor was at 4* I don't think the air box was going to fit. I have a whopping $ 38.00 in my engine mounts. That includes the new mounts. Are you a Daddy Yet? matt

 

[dbleon]

Dan,

My rear pinion was at 4*. When the motor was at 4* I don't think the air box was going to fit. I have a whopping $ 38.00 in my engine mounts. That includes the new mounts. Are you a Daddy Yet? matt

Yep!!!! As of Thursday night. She sleeping right now so I finally have time to fantasize about landcruisers for a minute. I cant wait to take a road trip with the family in my FJ. It's more motivation to get it done.

I got the dog house, hood, everything basically all back together. waiting on fuel tank, driveshaft, exhaust, and odds and ends. Should be done well before end or year.

Cheers

Let me know if you still need help, I got your call but been too busy to return... sorry.

 

[Clonestocker]

Congrats DAD! What's her name? Post a pic. matt

 

[spotcruiser]

How's this coming along?

 

[Clonestocker]

It's been kinda slow. Motors in and I'm building the rear mount as we speak. Will post some pictures this week end. I'm glad someone asked because sometimes you start to think that your wasting your time by sharing all the stuff you figure out. I'll try to update also.

thx
matt

 

[dbleon]

I'm glad someone asked because sometimes you start to think that your wasting your time by sharing all the stuff you figure out. matt

I feel you on that ^^

Hope all is well, and hope you had a good holiday.

Dan