The Lower Control Arm Removal and Replacement

[Yodaman]

Thanks for the helpful write up. I am just wrapping this job up and lowered the truck only to have the truck now sitting way lower than before (about an inch from the top of the tire to the fender). I replaced ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks and control arm bushings on the upper and lower. The shocks were purchased from Toyotapartsdeal and appear to be the correct part number.

The one thing I did do differently was install the frame mounted bushing with the tabs at 12 and 6 because I read that there was a TSB saying that is the best way to install them now.

 

[2001LC]

Crank clockwise on t-bars 30mm adjuster bolt, will raise front end. In non AHC suspension system.

 

[Yodaman]

The torsion bar bolts are cranked as far as they'll go and it didn't change the height

 

[2001LC]

You've not listed in signature line your model or year. So I assume LC 98-05 (which are all non AHC). If so, and you cranked T-bars fully CW. You'll need to reindex your T-bars. As this indicate you mess up in the indexing. T-bar have marks as do the brackets at each end for indexing.

 

[fussychicken]

I recently had problems with my drivers side adjustment bolt, so I though it might be a good idea to re-index my T-bars a tooth or two so I wasn't having to use up so many threads on the adjustment bolt. I was thinking that maybe these stock bars at 255k were maybe a little tired?

But imagine my surprise when I took it off today, they are keyed! No-reindexing here!

 

[zimcruza]

Awesome write up, thank you. I'm half way through this, dodging the rain and cold. I don't think I have the white marks at the top of the frame bushing - is that critical? I do have the tabs horizontal though. If critical I can press the bushes back out again I guess.... bit of a pita but rather have it right....

 

[nissanh]

I think the tabs are more important to be horizontal than that white akr on the top. If I remember right, the top half and bottom half (above and below the tabs, when bushing is driven into the frame) are identical and should not cause any effect.

 

[zimcruza]

Thanks Nissanh, I had one up and one down, so much for consistency. Now sorted. Both up and tabs nice and level. Thanks again for a great write up folks

 

[zimcruza]

Busy installing the #2 bushing - the one that goes in the LCA - and I see it has a blue marker where the #1 has an equivalent white mark. Do those go to top dead centre too? I'll install them that way round if nobody knows. FSM makes no comment on these....

 

[Malleus]

This is for Demonstration Purposes Only:
LandCruiser Year 2000 100 series

LCA Left: 4864060010: Right 4862060010
Number -2 Bushing 4865560010 (Needs two)

Before lifting the vehicle, measure the distance between (1) center of the grease cap to marked location of fender arch (I had 50 cm) and (2) upper shock mount to lower shock mount on LCA (I had 40.3 mm, Picture-1)

Lift the vehicle and place solid supports under the frame, also place the removed wheel under the vehicle as an added proctection

Remove sway bar link from the LCA as well as from the sway bar (14 mm, 38 ft-lb for link to LCA)
Remove lower shock mount (19 mm, 118 ft-lb): Remove the BOLT FIRST.
Loosen the Ball joint nut and break loose the ball joint from knuckle
Make sure the LCA is NOT on any load (remove jack if lifted by jacking the LCA)
Mark the approximate location of anchor arm adjusting bolt to anchor arm adjusting seat (Picture-2)
Release the tension on torsion bar by loosening and removing the anchor arm adjusting bolt (30 mm)
Loosen the torque arm nuts (22 mm, 166 ft-lb, Picture-3: Note the longer bolt has been removed)
With a hammer, move the torsion bar anchor arm towards the back of the vehicle to expose the BOLT of the LCA (Do NOT attempt to remove the nut; it will NOT come loose because the nut has 4 indentations that bites into the LCA and will not rotate)
Remove the BOLT (24 mm, 170 ft-lb): Do NOT attempt to remove the nut.
Remove the LCA!!!!
Mount the bushing puller tool as shown in the Picture-4 to remove the #2 bush (this is Pass side: I had to lift the diff extension tube to place the receiver cup on driver side by removing the extension housing mount bushing bolt to the cross bar)

View attachment 3173028

View attachment 3173062

View attachment 3173063

View attachment 3173071

View attachment 3173074

Love the stump and cribbing. Looks like my work.

 

[Malleus]

Alternative Torquing Method

Feedback appreciated on following alternative I'm considering for LCA job on my 05 LC.

I like the @nissanh measurement method in concept, insofar as it avoids the painful, time-consuming torquing process while truck is fully laden on the ground, as emphasized by Paul @2001LC.

I rely on my home garage MaxJax lift, which I consider safe and effective for LC wrenching, especially for a job like this. However, noting that the LC vehicle weight is at ~90% of the MaxJax specified load limits, I'm not comfortable jacking up individual suspension corners while the truck is lifted (to re-achieve the laden measurements). I like the truck to stay square, set and stable. I do use two highpoint stands for extra stability. Still, just don't like jacking whole suspension corners while the LC is in the air.

Long way of getting to the suggestion:
1) set the truck on the ground after installation, with nuts/bolts at "just snug" tightness
2) use a heavy 1/2" socket wrench with a 16" handle, which I can use to achieve something north of 100 ft-lbs, without much difficulty due to it's ratchet.
3) now with all bolts/nuts and associated bushing orientations locked in with reasonably high torque, directly raise the truck via lift.
4) finish torquing to high-torque spec using heavy duty, fixed torque wrench, in the air.

What say the mudders?

I had to look that up; that's a new one for me. Very interesting lift.

and it's on sale for $3,400 US, from BendPak, via Amazon.