Is the gasket an ‘early‘ 80 or what’s the issue?
-All I know is there’s no gap in the gasket on USDM late where the glass is glued in & the gasket is almost an afterthought/smooth looking trim.
The Holy Truck / was Trypo the trypophobia-Inducing truck / was a chopped model 80
- Thread starter John Young
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Is the gasket an ‘early‘ 80 or what’s the issue?
-All I know is there’s no gap in the gasket on USDM late where the glass is glued in & the gasket is almost an afterthought/smooth looking trim.
- Thread starter
- #102
Decorative issue only. That little channel in the gasket is meant to accept stainless steel trim. I actually had the trim from the parts truck but I threw it away. I also don't like it much. I would have preferred to have the smooth gasket, but at least for now it is not worth pulling out and replacing. Maybe I will find some channel and powder coat it black. That's easier. I also don't know if they used sealant around the gasket. Here in the UAE it rains so infrequently that sometimes I don't think they bother. And unfortunately the guy who put in the glass is no longer around. I don't really want to pry it up.
What gasket is it? Blows my mind that there could be a wrong gasket that still fits.
- Thread starter
- #104
What my guy ordered was a 56121-60100. When I search for this online I find 80 series trucks, but the gasket photos show the groove. I just looked it up and it should have been a 56121-60110
Evidently, I did not check at the time.
I think you have those part numbers backwards. 56121-60110 shows up for HDJs while McGeorge shows me 56121-60100 for my '94 US-model.
The groove must be for the chrome (?) trim around the windshield:
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- #106
I did photo searches on the part number. What I can confirm is that I ordered the 100 part and the gasket that came had the slot for the chrome trim. There is a discrepancy somewhere. Next time I will ask for a photo before I purchase just to make sure.
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- #107
I am making slow progress on the bumper strips from the 100 series. I've found that using a big knife is the best way to cut, and then profile with a course file. Also, that if you hit it with a heat gun you get a better overall finish. Still learning....
I hit it just a little too long with the heat gun on the end. But from 1 foot away it is not really noticeable. The groves going all the way to the end are the more obvious evidence that this will have been repurposed. I won't know how much of an issue it is until I get the trim on the car.
I hit it just a little too long with the heat gun on the end. But from 1 foot away it is not really noticeable. The groves going all the way to the end are the more obvious evidence that this will have been repurposed. I won't know how much of an issue it is until I get the trim on the car.
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- #108
Some exciting news from the boss at the garage. The Holy Truck is going for its first inspection today! With luck the poor old thing will get plates, insurance and be on the road this week!
- Thread starter
- #109
Today is a red letter day! The Holy Truck passed inspection!
The remarks are interesting:
"FRONT BULK HEAD, BUMPER FRAME REPAIRED. REAR CHASSIS COIL SPRING AREA MINOR DENT .UNDER CHASSIS THICK RUSTY PROOFED. "
After the guys got the truck inspected I went to the Tasjeel office in Motor City and, lo and behold, was able to register and get plates!
It is even a very nice number too.
And you know what, after all this, I have not driven the damn thing, not even one damn foot!
Tomorrow or Friday I will put the plates on and have the first drive.
The remarks are interesting:
"FRONT BULK HEAD, BUMPER FRAME REPAIRED. REAR CHASSIS COIL SPRING AREA MINOR DENT .UNDER CHASSIS THICK RUSTY PROOFED. "
After the guys got the truck inspected I went to the Tasjeel office in Motor City and, lo and behold, was able to register and get plates!
It is even a very nice number too.
And you know what, after all this, I have not driven the damn thing, not even one damn foot!
Tomorrow or Friday I will put the plates on and have the first drive.
- Thread starter
- #110
Today I put the plates on the Holy Truck!
And I had the first drive!
It drove great! No slop in the steering; transmission felt great, and it was quiet. Putting the sound insulation in was a big, big improvement. Really makes a difference. And now when you close the doors it sounds more like a G-wagon than anything. Just feels solid. It adds some weight, but I think it was well worth it. The brakes were bad--all the symptoms of a bad master cylinder--variable pedal movement before you get braking, soft sometimes, fine sometimes. It is going back into the shop tomorrow for that. New master cylinder.
And I had the first drive!
It drove great! No slop in the steering; transmission felt great, and it was quiet. Putting the sound insulation in was a big, big improvement. Really makes a difference. And now when you close the doors it sounds more like a G-wagon than anything. Just feels solid. It adds some weight, but I think it was well worth it. The brakes were bad--all the symptoms of a bad master cylinder--variable pedal movement before you get braking, soft sometimes, fine sometimes. It is going back into the shop tomorrow for that. New master cylinder.
- Thread starter
- #111
So I mentioned that I took the Holy Truck home yesterday. Apparently even though it was through inspection, the work was not complete and I was not actually intended to take it home...for good reason.
I mentioned the brakes. When I looked under the hood this morning I saw this:
It turns out I was not meant to take the Holy Truck home yet. I kinda jumped the gun.
Anyways, this morning after some difficulty starting, I limped it back to the garage for a bunch of stuff. Not the least of it is a new master cylinder. The top tank of the radiator is leaking a bit, so we are looking into rebuilding that with a new brass core. We've also misplaced some of the rear tire carrier hardware. Aside from the brakes and radiator, lots of small stuff for the most part.
I mentioned the brakes. When I looked under the hood this morning I saw this:
It turns out I was not meant to take the Holy Truck home yet. I kinda jumped the gun.
Anyways, this morning after some difficulty starting, I limped it back to the garage for a bunch of stuff. Not the least of it is a new master cylinder. The top tank of the radiator is leaking a bit, so we are looking into rebuilding that with a new brass core. We've also misplaced some of the rear tire carrier hardware. Aside from the brakes and radiator, lots of small stuff for the most part.
- Thread starter
- #113
So the latest is that I am having a new master cylinder installed. Should be done by now. And the radiator was weeping a little. I've chosen to try to have the original brass radiator repaired and even re-cored if possible. I like brass radiators. Waiting to hear about how that turns out.
And meanwhile I have been completing the conversion of 100-series PVC-rubber side moulding for the 80. It is now 'done' and ready for bumper paint. It was a fair amount of work.
Hard to see here but the front piece is meant to overlap the 2nd piece just a bit.
These are pieces cut off showing how it is meant to look when installed
I could not quite match it on this go-round but perhaps if I re-do or do another 80 I will be better. I will save these end pieces.
Just in case anyone is interested, here is one of the 100 series trim piece part numbers:
And meanwhile I have been completing the conversion of 100-series PVC-rubber side moulding for the 80. It is now 'done' and ready for bumper paint. It was a fair amount of work.
Hard to see here but the front piece is meant to overlap the 2nd piece just a bit.
These are pieces cut off showing how it is meant to look when installed
I could not quite match it on this go-round but perhaps if I re-do or do another 80 I will be better. I will save these end pieces.
Just in case anyone is interested, here is one of the 100 series trim piece part numbers:
- Thread starter
- #114
One of the unknowns about this is whether the profile on the 80 series will cause problems with the 100 series trim.
Here is the profile of the standard thin-type 80's trim:
I don't particularly care for all the writing on it--particularly with the look I am going for with the Holy Truck.
Here is what the profile of the 100 series trim looks like:
It is pretty flexible. We will see if I need to re-profile or something. I am going to use a UK product that looks very similar to 3M 06387:
It is available here and I've tested it a bit and it seems very strong--just like the 3M product. Only one way to find out...
Here is the profile of the standard thin-type 80's trim:
I don't particularly care for all the writing on it--particularly with the look I am going for with the Holy Truck.
Here is what the profile of the 100 series trim looks like:
It is pretty flexible. We will see if I need to re-profile or something. I am going to use a UK product that looks very similar to 3M 06387:
It is available here and I've tested it a bit and it seems very strong--just like the 3M product. Only one way to find out...
- Thread starter
- #115
Some time back, the guys at the garage lost the little roller thing for the rear tire carrier. I've been hunting for one ever since. Last weekend I went to the furthest reaches of Sharjah and I did find one truck in a salvage yard, but it already had been stripped o this part.
A replacement for an 80 with barn doors seems to be unobtanium, the little roller thing for the 100 is readily available.
I decided to try to modify the 100 series part. As near as I can tell, they are identical except for the fact that instead of being more or less a 90 degree bracket on the 100, it is about 75 or 80 degrees on the 80 to account for the more sloped rear doors on the 80.
I started by cutting most of the way through the corner of the bracket.
And then I bent it just using the pressure of a bench vise.
Fortunately I have an old barn door to test it against to get the right angle:
A replacement for an 80 with barn doors seems to be unobtanium, the little roller thing for the 100 is readily available.
I decided to try to modify the 100 series part. As near as I can tell, they are identical except for the fact that instead of being more or less a 90 degree bracket on the 100, it is about 75 or 80 degrees on the 80 to account for the more sloped rear doors on the 80.
I started by cutting most of the way through the corner of the bracket.
And then I bent it just using the pressure of a bench vise.
Fortunately I have an old barn door to test it against to get the right angle:
- Thread starter
- #116
Then I went and tried it on the actual Holy Truck:
It worked just fine!
Then it was time to weld up the cut. Unfortunately I am using a MIG I've never used before and first results were less than spectactular.
Thank god for angle grinders. I gave up around 6 pm. I was hot and tired and it was not a good time to be welding or using an angle grinder. I it actually much better than it looks from these photos. Tomorrow I will finish it up.
It worked just fine!
Then it was time to weld up the cut. Unfortunately I am using a MIG I've never used before and first results were less than spectactular.
Thank god for angle grinders. I gave up around 6 pm. I was hot and tired and it was not a good time to be welding or using an angle grinder. I it actually much better than it looks from these photos. Tomorrow I will finish it up.
- Thread starter
- #117
I got more comfortable with the MIG welder today and after a few more tries got it into reasonable shape:
I put a little rattle can on it, but I've asked the guys to sand and paint with auto paint when they do the rubber bumpers you can see in the background below.
Getting this done was a step forward.
The next issue is that of the fuel level sensor in the tank. The part that ToyoDIY lists for the Holy Truck, 83320-69075, seems unavailable in the local market, and I really want to start driving the truck soon. After searching pretty diligently among the used parts guys, I still had no luck. Finally, today after I got home from doing the above, I started searching for alternatives. I found that 83320-69085, which is listed as the part for the diesel trucks, looked identical, and it is available new on the local market for less than 100 USD. I've taken a chance and ordered it. It should be in in a couple of days.
Does anyone know of a reason that a float sensor for a diesel would be any different than that for gas? I'm going to post this question in the diesel section too.
I put a little rattle can on it, but I've asked the guys to sand and paint with auto paint when they do the rubber bumpers you can see in the background below.
Getting this done was a step forward.
The next issue is that of the fuel level sensor in the tank. The part that ToyoDIY lists for the Holy Truck, 83320-69075, seems unavailable in the local market, and I really want to start driving the truck soon. After searching pretty diligently among the used parts guys, I still had no luck. Finally, today after I got home from doing the above, I started searching for alternatives. I found that 83320-69085, which is listed as the part for the diesel trucks, looked identical, and it is available new on the local market for less than 100 USD. I've taken a chance and ordered it. It should be in in a couple of days.
Does anyone know of a reason that a float sensor for a diesel would be any different than that for gas? I'm going to post this question in the diesel section too.
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- #118
The trim is painted and I think it looks very nice.
Pretty much the last thing (knock wood) is for the guys to install the gas tank level sender. Then I can get my hands on it and start driving it around a bit to wring it out.
Pretty much the last thing (knock wood) is for the guys to install the gas tank level sender. Then I can get my hands on it and start driving it around a bit to wring it out.
- Thread starter
- #120
So the gas tank issue was solved and then the gas gauge issue was solved. And then I started driving it and it turns out to have a pretty significant drive shaft vibration issue. So it's back in the garage and we'll see what needs to be done and whether it needs a new drive shaft or not. In the meantime, I have been working on the molding for the side
What I did was sand the heart of the trim to remove a bump that was interfering with the installation on the side of the 80 series. Recall that these are trim pieces that I cut down from those used on a hundred series here in the UAE..
I do like the way it looks. I think if I had to do it over again I would use a flap wheel to actually carve out more of the back side of the trim pieces so that it fits more closely on the profile of the door panels. I used quite strong adhesive tape that essentially bends the trim pieces a little bit. We'll see how it lasts. If I have to take him off and carve out the middle again I'll do that.
What I did was sand the heart of the trim to remove a bump that was interfering with the installation on the side of the 80 series. Recall that these are trim pieces that I cut down from those used on a hundred series here in the UAE..
I do like the way it looks. I think if I had to do it over again I would use a flap wheel to actually carve out more of the back side of the trim pieces so that it fits more closely on the profile of the door panels. I used quite strong adhesive tape that essentially bends the trim pieces a little bit. We'll see how it lasts. If I have to take him off and carve out the middle again I'll do that.