"The Great Pumpkin"- 45 Crew Cab buildup

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It depends how everything is set up in the engine if 30 degrees is way off or not. A big cam 350 likes about 34 degrees total advance and about 10 degrees at idle. If this engine is at 30 degrees at idle, I am surprised it would even turn over. But, if it truly does have 30 at idle, it needs a distributor built that will allow for better advance tuning. I can't tell for sure from the pic, but it appears to have an HEI, which is a good start for this engine. It does not appear to have a vacuum advance module on it though, so that may account for the no timing adjustment issue. Don't pull the cam, its not a cam timing issue, but an ignition timing issue. Two completely different issues.
 
Good to know. It's running fairly well now although not perfect. Do you think a new distributor or one for a racing type motor would adjust it correctly??
 
"Racing " motors can fall into a huge category. I built a 408ci Small block Chevy that made over 1300 hp. To me that's a race motor. If your 45 drives pretty good and has some low end power, then its probably just a little over cammed. This is not a real big issue as long as you are satisfied with the amount of low end power you have. In theory, the larger the cam, the higher the rpm band is where the engine makes power. Why don't you send me a pic of the distributor and let me see what it is first. It may be that a simple swap will cure all of you problems. You can buy a newly rebuilt HEI from any auto parts store and drop it right in. This is a very simple swap and can be done with a 9/16 wrench and a timing light. my email is gary@powerplayracing.net.
 
Great looking rig...I've actually been visualizing this exact set-up for years. In my mind's eye I've been thinking of a lift gate ín the back - have you ever seen one with that mod instead of the sealed back? Also was thinking that the butt end of a 40 series fiberglass top would make an awesome bed cover - put hinges near the cab so it would lift up...what are your thoughts on this?
 
Waggoner5 said:
"Racing " motors can fall into a huge category. I built a 408ci Small block Chevy that made over 1300 hp. To me that's a race motor. If your 45 drives pretty good and has some low end power, then its probably just a little over cammed. This is not a real big issue as long as you are satisfied with the amount of low end power you have. In theory, the larger the cam, the higher the rpm band is where the engine makes power. Why don't you send me a pic of the distributor and let me see what it is first. It may be that a simple swap will cure all of you problems. You can buy a newly rebuilt HEI from any auto parts store and drop it right in. This is a very simple swap and can be done with a 9/16 wrench and a timing light. my email is gary@powerplayracing.net.
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Foudn out a week ago that the motor was originally built for a racecar at a local track here in southern Mass. The motor was never installed or raced. It was put into a 40 that was never finished. I bought that 40 and parted it out. No idea what's actually in here but the PO said it was a race motor.
 
CruiserStuff said:
Great looking rig...I've actually been visualizing this exact set-up for years. In my mind's eye I've been thinking of a lift gate ín the back - have you ever seen one with that mod instead of the sealed back? Also was thinking that the butt end of a 40 series fiberglass top would make an awesome bed cover - put hinges near the cab so it would lift up...what are your thoughts on this?
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Mine is a fold-down tailgate and not a fixed back. I have a set of swing-out doors from an early 40 that I've been considering putting on there. I like the 40 roof idea. could be interesting.

Been thinking about working the top so it will be removeable and adding soft top equipment for the summertime. That'll be fun!!!
 
jsaltlick said:
Foudn out a week ago that the motor was originally built for a racecar at a local track here in southern Mass. The motor was never installed or raced. It was put into a 40 that was never finished. I bought that 40 and parted it out. No idea what's actually in here but the PO said it was a race motor.
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Most likely a new Distributor will fix all driveability problems as well as increase mpg, etc.
 
Sorry, need to clarify a bit....I meant a rear lift hatch (with the window), not for the tailgate but at the back of the cab - that way someone could hop up into the bed, open up the hatch and get into the back (or get stuff out). It would also facilitate putting long items in the back without having them hang over the tailgate. Post up some more pics if you do the soft top options - sounds good to me! By the way, you said earlier in the thread that you had custom rattle cans of the orange paint made up for you - was this a national company that made them or just a mom and pop shop? If it is a national store, I'd love the contact info and the cost to you. Thanks.
 
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CruiserStuff said:
Sorry, need to clarify a bit....I meant a rear lift hatch (with the window), not for the tailgate but at the back of the cab - that way someone could hop up into the bed, open up the hatch and get into the back (or get stuff out). It would also facilitate putting long items in the back without having them hang over the tailgate. Post up some more pics if you do the soft top options - sounds good to me! By the way, you said earlier in the thread that you had custom rattle cans of the orange paint made up for you - was this a national company that made them or just a mom and pop shop? If it is a national store, I'd love the contact info and the cost to you. Thanks.
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Towerpaint.com does them. I found a place locally that does it and I like their spray nozzles much better. Less runs and better finish. I have to order more tomorrow so I'll dig out the name. $15 per can. Great for touching up after wheeling too! Takes the worry out of scratches
 
5 speed and 3:73 gears made the biggest difference to my fuel economy. They don't do much for city mileage, though. My troopy has a Vortec, and they seem to be pretty efficient (relatively speaking... I can still stir up dust with the fuel needle if I stomp on it a lot). I did the 5 speed and 3:73 gears when I still had the turbo diesel in there, and my fuel economy jumped by about 25%: I'm not really sure what it would do for the V8, as I had this drive train in it when did the engine transplant.

What kind of fuel economy are you getting with your new engine setup?

With all this painting, wouldn't it make sense to get a compressor and just paint with that? I know it would jeopardise your title as 'head rattle can ninja,' but at $15 per can it may be cheaper:)

Josh
 
If you buy new or rebuilt, buy for a 1987 Chevy 1/2 ton truck with 305ci or 350ci. It will come ready to bolt in and have a good mechanical + vacuum advance built in. Hook the vacuum advance to non ported vacuum which would be manifold vacuum and set the initial timing at about 10 degrees. This is done with the vacuum advance unhooked and the manifold plugged where its plugged in.
 
I've been planning on getting a compressor, welder, and a plasma cutter but the wallet argues with me at times.

I'm checking the fuel consumption today. Filled up last night and I'm driving about 100 miles this afternoon. Should have a more accurate idea then.

I'll check into the distributor. Need to get a new starter as well. Having the engine tuned is certainly gonna help out. I'll do the 5 speed if it becomes a DD. Still considering that option!
 
Just did my mileage test. 6 gallons exactly to go 52 miles. Ugh. 9 mpg. I wasn't hammering the gas either and it was 85% highway.
 
jsaltlick said:
Just did my mileage test. 6 gallons exactly to go 52 miles. Ugh. 9 mpg. I wasn't hammering the gas either and it was 85% highway.
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Ouch. There's gotta be something you can do about that. Hopefully the 5 speed you're gonna put in will help the mileage a bit! I'm hoping the same for me.
 
5 speed is for the BJ40 I'm buying down there that has a rebuilt engine. Need to check the wallet and see if I can keep 2 cruisers. 9mpg vs. 30mpg will be a tough argument. Thinking of the BJ as my daily driver since it has a newly rebuilt B engine, 5 speed and xfer case. Basically a brand new drivetrain. If I turbo-ed it I would get roughly 30 mpg with normal street tires.

Hoping to keep both. that's the plan!
 
Your camshaft may have tons of overlap allowing a lot of compression and unburnt fuel to escape at lower RPMs. That is a big issue with street cars with big cams. You need cylinder pressure at lower rpms to get fuel economy. Fix your timing issue first, then if you are still not happy, swap cams.
 
Funny you say that.....I have an exhaust leak at the manifold and I do get a whiff of unburned gas when idling at stoplights. Looking at distributors from Summit now. Prolly grab one this week.
 
3:73's will help with fuel economy around town, but a 5 speed will only help on the freeway. I reckon 9 mpg sounds about right for a 350 with a carb, a massive cam and 4:11's.

I average about 14 mpg around town in my troopy with the Vortec, but I have a bit of a heavy foot. You will certainly do better with a diesel 40, but you can't beat the cool-factor of the Pumpkin... and that's worth a lot of fuel.:D

Cheers,

Josh
 
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