The Dutch stole all 5-speed diesels! (nsfw?) HJ60: sillyprep
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hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #22
21 pictures, next!wolfsschlucht 2 Margival, this is were the guy with the moustache was hiding with about 2500 soldiers around him.
If you can go back in time: 17 june 1944 H was here, around the corner is his fireplace:
Europe is full of bunkers and atomic hideouts
(like the us has many atlas silos) www.siloboy.com
In Prenden, near Berlin bunker5001 for Honecker and another one for his family:
Autoshutdown in a few seconds at blast and could witstand a 2000 celcius blast right above the bunker.
If you would like to go in as a fallout heavy contaminated soldier they would shower you with ...nerve gas; byebye thanks for your service..| this procedure is found in most atomic shelters: dont infect the others.
Berlin almost got nuked by the russians...
Berlin Stasi deathrow, with x-ray blasts they could very accuratly kill you by leukemia cancer in the future.
enough,
this is near my house, very safe to get stuck and call for a tractor to get me out. (never get stuck here)
This Hj60 was for sale in perfect condition and suddenly the picture was changed to this :whoops:
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hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #23
The roofrack and crates are ok! they stayed in place for 1200 Km and I had to much weight in them that really is noticable in turns, so we moved the heavy stuff inside and the lightstuff in the boxes.
Exploring old war tunnels in Calais:
Mud trial were I got stuck with smaller tires, fun with big tires:
Last time I allmost got stuck here with the big tires!
Here is a picture of the maginot defense line, some ouvarges are a museum, most are abandoned and can be entered if you know where. A full exploration takes more than 10 hours.
No warning signs, some emercency exits are straight down 70 meters:
Old NATO buildings, the cold war atomic shelters can be entered if you prepare a bit:
Mudding in front of the bunker, again more than 10 hours in this one, they redesigned old Maginot ouvrages to NATO design so everything renewed and now scrapped by anyone who wants parts.
The electricity lines in there are best quality.
Nato control panels for power supply and more.
Nato diesel power, 4 engines, brand new rotting away:
Parts are scattered around, some warehouses are filled with stuff.
Ouvrage Simserhof floorplan, just to show the scale of these tunnels.
Poland has the longest tunnes: 35 km and I have visited these a few times.
stairs, elevators, tunnels, doors, storage, airvents, kitchen, dormitoria, engines...
campfire at abondoned NATO base (I was in the Woods with 2 others getting firewood and suddenly my brother helps me and after a few minutes I realise and ask: hey who is watching the fire and the HJ!: nobody!)
I am running more salad/sunflower oil (1.20 euro per liter) for fun and bio-diesel is 30 cts more expensive than normal diesel. regular diesel=1.43 euro per liter.
It makes a mess and smells "different" but I can not buy 1000 or 5000 liter and I have tried 5 different manufacturers!
Saladoil freezes at -7 celcius, dont want this in my fuel lines.
So I tried the jars that are filled with stuff from the watersedimenter.
I need to know if diesel mixes properly and does not make a sludge in the fuel lines.
Everything seems perfect!
100 % salad oil> 70% saladoil>50% salad oil and some rust/water residu from the water separator but it is just a test.
Exploring old war tunnels in Calais:
Mud trial were I got stuck with smaller tires, fun with big tires:
Last time I allmost got stuck here with the big tires!
Here is a picture of the maginot defense line, some ouvarges are a museum, most are abandoned and can be entered if you know where. A full exploration takes more than 10 hours.
No warning signs, some emercency exits are straight down 70 meters:
Old NATO buildings, the cold war atomic shelters can be entered if you prepare a bit:
Mudding in front of the bunker, again more than 10 hours in this one, they redesigned old Maginot ouvrages to NATO design so everything renewed and now scrapped by anyone who wants parts.
The electricity lines in there are best quality.
Nato control panels for power supply and more.
Nato diesel power, 4 engines, brand new rotting away:
Parts are scattered around, some warehouses are filled with stuff.
Ouvrage Simserhof floorplan, just to show the scale of these tunnels.
Poland has the longest tunnes: 35 km and I have visited these a few times.
stairs, elevators, tunnels, doors, storage, airvents, kitchen, dormitoria, engines...
campfire at abondoned NATO base (I was in the Woods with 2 others getting firewood and suddenly my brother helps me and after a few minutes I realise and ask: hey who is watching the fire and the HJ!: nobody!)
I am running more salad/sunflower oil (1.20 euro per liter) for fun and bio-diesel is 30 cts more expensive than normal diesel. regular diesel=1.43 euro per liter.
It makes a mess and smells "different" but I can not buy 1000 or 5000 liter and I have tried 5 different manufacturers!
Saladoil freezes at -7 celcius, dont want this in my fuel lines.
So I tried the jars that are filled with stuff from the watersedimenter.
I need to know if diesel mixes properly and does not make a sludge in the fuel lines.
Everything seems perfect!
100 % salad oil> 70% saladoil>50% salad oil and some rust/water residu from the water separator but it is just a test.
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cool pics looks like fun exploring
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #25
Hi Fighter, your first rust post gives me a headache 
page 3 is far better 
I have got the parts I need to clean used vegetable oil!
Yes I am taking the diesel back to its roots and after a lot of reading I have come up with this!
Here is the filter system:
Basicly fill trough kitchen filter, panty, 1 micron white bag (if 1 will not block immediately?) in one 60 liter barrel upside down dripping trough G2 standard size thread in the bottom of a resting 200 liter barrel overflowing in another 200 liter and that is pumped out trough magnet and 5 and 1 micron filters. Result must rest for one month.
Mix result with 20% diesel or petroleum, no pre-heating.
The left pump is for pumping out the residue from the 200 liter barrel bottom. the set will work from left to right.
The 60 liter barrel has a 3/4 tap to remove residue.
Every bottle of 1 liter is 1.44 euro.... -5 degrees celcius frozen up.
First filter:
I have changed the plan a bit, after we made a firestove the work in the barn is ok, no more freezing and more time to look around for pipes and stuff
I will use a plastic barrel with 3x 1 micron 18 cm diameter/82 cm long socks, when that is filtered it will be pumped into the settling drums;
I am trying to get a system that is rain and dust proof, so all connections and fill holes need to be shut if unused.
This will be the connection between the g2 barrel out and in.
I have removed the Y piece to pump slugde out, and removed the steel tube and replaced with 32x 2,4 plastic that fits exactly in the 2" steel drum bungs and drum flanges.
The small outlet is 3/4 (same as a watertap)
I have a afdapter from G2 to 1 inch.
Connection between oil barrel out and other barrel in via 3/4
The oilbarrel is 88 cm high, yellow tube is 72 cm, grey is 78 cm with some holes drilled in the end.
The plastic connections dump the oil in the lower side of the barrels, so the light clean oil can go up and waterresidu stays at the bottom:
Here is the 3/4 that enters the second oil barrel, the plastic pipe is an exact fit and makes the oil enter at the bottom.
More stuff, now I can use 4x 200 liter drums and connect them in a row or circle:
Got the stuff home!, filled about 20 liters, now waiting for the 1 micron to empty, might be to much but I have no hurry and lets see tomorrow what happended.
The 60 liter has a small tube about 10 centimeters from the bottom so before I drain to the big barrel it has sunk one night or more.
Cool: two 200 liter barrels can fit the cruiser, that is about 4000 km!
Found a nice playground today!
A nice hj61 pickup:
page 3 is far better I have got the parts I need to clean used vegetable oil!
Yes I am taking the diesel back to its roots and after a lot of reading I have come up with this!
Here is the filter system:
Basicly fill trough kitchen filter, panty, 1 micron white bag (if 1 will not block immediately?) in one 60 liter barrel upside down dripping trough G2 standard size thread in the bottom of a resting 200 liter barrel overflowing in another 200 liter and that is pumped out trough magnet and 5 and 1 micron filters. Result must rest for one month.
Mix result with 20% diesel or petroleum, no pre-heating.
The left pump is for pumping out the residue from the 200 liter barrel bottom. the set will work from left to right.
The 60 liter barrel has a 3/4 tap to remove residue.
Every bottle of 1 liter is 1.44 euro.... -5 degrees celcius frozen up.
First filter:
I have changed the plan a bit, after we made a firestove the work in the barn is ok, no more freezing and more time to look around for pipes and stuff
I will use a plastic barrel with 3x 1 micron 18 cm diameter/82 cm long socks, when that is filtered it will be pumped into the settling drums;
I am trying to get a system that is rain and dust proof, so all connections and fill holes need to be shut if unused.
This will be the connection between the g2 barrel out and in.
I have removed the Y piece to pump slugde out, and removed the steel tube and replaced with 32x 2,4 plastic that fits exactly in the 2" steel drum bungs and drum flanges.
The small outlet is 3/4 (same as a watertap)
I have a afdapter from G2 to 1 inch.
Connection between oil barrel out and other barrel in via 3/4
The oilbarrel is 88 cm high, yellow tube is 72 cm, grey is 78 cm with some holes drilled in the end.
The plastic connections dump the oil in the lower side of the barrels, so the light clean oil can go up and waterresidu stays at the bottom:
Here is the 3/4 that enters the second oil barrel, the plastic pipe is an exact fit and makes the oil enter at the bottom.
More stuff, now I can use 4x 200 liter drums and connect them in a row or circle:
Got the stuff home!, filled about 20 liters, now waiting for the 1 micron to empty, might be to much but I have no hurry and lets see tomorrow what happended.
The 60 liter has a small tube about 10 centimeters from the bottom so before I drain to the big barrel it has sunk one night or more.
Cool: two 200 liter barrels can fit the cruiser, that is about 4000 km!
Found a nice playground today!
A nice hj61 pickup:
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hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #26
This is Fort de Koenigsmacker:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fort_de_Koenigsmacker
I allways shut doors when I can, also heavy blastdoors or maintenance doors because it is funny for the one that comes after me.
If you are in such an enviornment your brain simply hates shut doors and Claustrophobia is just a funny mindgame.
cannon turret:
air vent, this is how soldiers entered the fort and took it from the Germans, 430 dead.
France metz fort jeanne de arc / ouvrage billig:
Storage:
France metz fort jeanne de arc:
Luckily the weels were locked so when I slipped sideways to the edge I pressed 4x4 and we got away...
Next to my house I tried this small road and when the hj slipped to the water it was very scary.
I thought the rear would slip further but the 4x4 pulled it out, the sheeps swim to the other side sometimes...
Replaced fuel filter (fram p4178), no residue at all, I thought it would be very dirty from the veggie oil, but nothing...
Car drives better after all, this filter is allmost 30.000 km old.
Height: 89mm
OD/Width Max: 77mm
OD/Width Min: 77mm
outer diameter: 84 mm
hight: 92 mm
Thread: 3/4"-16 UN
Here is the making of the veggy oil filter.
Three 1 micron filters drip in oil drum 200 liter (18 cm filter in 20 cm pipe)
This is where the fresh oil goes in, then settle a bit and then pump the top layer to the 8 week settle drums! This is dust and water proof and mice cant take an oilshower!
One filter bag can hold about 25 liters. just unscrew the lid, fill with oil and replace lid and walk away.
Three filters so one can be cleaned/out of order.
Inside the oildrum, The plastic tube with the filter will enter the drum about 10 cm.
The filter bags will enter the drum about 20 cm, then close it with sealer:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fort_de_Koenigsmacker
I allways shut doors when I can, also heavy blastdoors or maintenance doors because it is funny for the one that comes after me.
If you are in such an enviornment your brain simply hates shut doors and Claustrophobia is just a funny mindgame.
cannon turret:
air vent, this is how soldiers entered the fort and took it from the Germans, 430 dead.
France metz fort jeanne de arc / ouvrage billig:
Storage:
France metz fort jeanne de arc:
Luckily the weels were locked so when I slipped sideways to the edge I pressed 4x4 and we got away...
Next to my house I tried this small road and when the hj slipped to the water it was very scary.
I thought the rear would slip further but the 4x4 pulled it out, the sheeps swim to the other side sometimes...
Replaced fuel filter (fram p4178), no residue at all, I thought it would be very dirty from the veggie oil, but nothing...
Car drives better after all, this filter is allmost 30.000 km old.
Height: 89mm
OD/Width Max: 77mm
OD/Width Min: 77mm
outer diameter: 84 mm
hight: 92 mm
Thread: 3/4"-16 UN
Here is the making of the veggy oil filter.
Three 1 micron filters drip in oil drum 200 liter (18 cm filter in 20 cm pipe)
This is where the fresh oil goes in, then settle a bit and then pump the top layer to the 8 week settle drums! This is dust and water proof and mice cant take an oilshower!
One filter bag can hold about 25 liters. just unscrew the lid, fill with oil and replace lid and walk away.
Three filters so one can be cleaned/out of order.
Inside the oildrum, The plastic tube with the filter will enter the drum about 10 cm.
The filter bags will enter the drum about 20 cm, then close it with sealer:
Last edited:
Here in Canada you can get 16litre pals and 16 litrle jugs that's what resturants use to refill their deep fryers... They come in sunflower,canola and veggie(mix) oil flavors...
They cost just a few cents over the cost of regular diesel fuel new!
I should play around and test like you did, so what were you findings did 50/50 gel at all in -5C? I run 2 stroke oil when it gets warm out, but I h8 the smell of petro diesel and love running sweet veggie!
Cheers Great pictures awesome place!
They cost just a few cents over the cost of regular diesel fuel new!
I should play around and test like you did, so what were you findings did 50/50 gel at all in -5C? I run 2 stroke oil when it gets warm out, but I h8 the smell of petro diesel and love running sweet veggie!
Cheers Great pictures awesome place!
Keep up the urban exploration!
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #29
Hi Eric, the winter was ok for me and I only stalled once in -18 when I think the stuff froze up in the tank.
This was at 30 minutes highway speed so maybe the windchill factor made it even colder.
Got to a gas station and filled to top and problem was gone. (did not use spare fuelfilter, spare fuel or gasblower)
Changed fuel filter 3000 km later and improved pickup a bit but it was not releated to stalling.
Hi Repent, maybe a bit to much pictures of abondoned stuff?
:whoops:
I have used a few hunderd liters till now and have about 300 liters filtered and settling.
Now it is getting 15 Celcius here and the HJ drives perfect with a 60% and even more sunflower oil mix and a little bit of 2 stroke oil for lube.
My friend Bought a HJ60! Yes the Dutch stole another 5-speed HJ60, this one is from Spain
Coooooooooooooooool to drive with two of them
-Has a huge overpressure (filler cap allmost floates on outcoming blow...) ordered 60 liters of 20w50 today so hope it helps a bit...
-leftside locking hub is jammed to allmost free position, checked the aisin rebuild thread, ? see later.
-leaky transfercase seal to rear driveshaft axle, leaky front axle,
-rust rust rust rust rust rust rust rust rusurtsitstrus
Sold with just more that 200000 km... Yeah any idiot can roll back an odometer
Now that the summer is coming the next rust issue on the wheel arches pops up.
I have all the metal weld in parts but not in the welding rave mood, maybe next year.
Towing
And I fixed a M18x1,5 hose for the overflowing gearbox to transmission (it ant leaking but if it starts...)
Hose is 15,25"=40cm
This was at 30 minutes highway speed so maybe the windchill factor made it even colder.
Got to a gas station and filled to top and problem was gone. (did not use spare fuelfilter, spare fuel or gasblower)
Changed fuel filter 3000 km later and improved pickup a bit but it was not releated to stalling.
Hi Repent, maybe a bit to much pictures of abondoned stuff?
:whoops:I have used a few hunderd liters till now and have about 300 liters filtered and settling.
Now it is getting 15 Celcius here and the HJ drives perfect with a 60% and even more sunflower oil mix and a little bit of 2 stroke oil for lube.
My friend Bought a HJ60! Yes the Dutch stole another 5-speed HJ60, this one is from Spain
Coooooooooooooooool to drive with two of them
-Has a huge overpressure (filler cap allmost floates on outcoming blow...) ordered 60 liters of 20w50 today so hope it helps a bit...
-leftside locking hub is jammed to allmost free position, checked the aisin rebuild thread, ? see later.
-leaky transfercase seal to rear driveshaft axle, leaky front axle,
-rust rust rust rust rust rust rust rust rusurtsitstrus
Sold with just more that 200000 km... Yeah any idiot can roll back an odometer
Now that the summer is coming the next rust issue on the wheel arches pops up.
I have all the metal weld in parts but not in the welding rave mood, maybe next year.
Towing
And I fixed a M18x1,5 hose for the overflowing gearbox to transmission (it ant leaking but if it starts...)
Hose is 15,25"=40cm
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Great pictures!
Love all the bio-diesel info.
Love all the bio-diesel info.
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks Spike Strip, the pictures sure dont make this faster to load~!
My best advisor and C.E.O:
I did some rustwelding and the front hard brakelines, here are some more pictures:
This machine can bend sheet metal and I got it home in the cruiser:
When my back is ready and cured from lifting this thing let the grinding and welding games begin, it has grease fitting zerks like the hj...
Aldo the metal is there I used other stuff, it was not rusted enough to use the new stuff:
Any midget passing my cruiser will see this:
Left side:
3 Front hard brakelines replaced:
The spring is now ok (picture is wrong)
My best advisor and C.E.O:
I did some rustwelding and the front hard brakelines, here are some more pictures:
This machine can bend sheet metal and I got it home in the cruiser:
When my back is ready and cured from lifting this thing let the grinding and welding games begin, it has grease fitting zerks like the hj...
Aldo the metal is there I used other stuff, it was not rusted enough to use the new stuff:
Any midget passing my cruiser will see this:
Left side:
3 Front hard brakelines replaced:
The spring is now ok (picture is wrong)
Last edited:
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #32
Rubber 0-ring set for the front brakes:
I bleed them alone; put a plastic hose on the bleeder(s) and a old tube of brakehose on the other end of the plastic in a bottle with a little bottom of brakefluid and no need for help, it bleeds by gravity anyway.
picture is the materials for a new line (buying prebuild is far more easier!)
-there is an old front soft brakeline with minor cracks near the metal.
-one spanner #10 #11 with opening to close the brakelines (for opening cut them and use a proper #10)
-one tool to cut the new lines (no sawing), and a tool to press them. (for toyota you press twice on one side to make a proper connection) (press 1=OP.1 DIN1 4.75 mm and press 2= OP2 4.75/6 mm 3/16 and 1/4 in.
Remove the old pistons with air or grease (change brake to grease zerc, fat is way better than air!)
brake caliper bolts 12x1,25 : toyota part number 90101-12060
Fixed a water ski pylon for the boat:
So 19 september 2013 the yearly road check has to be done...
Fixed and welded a lot:
Only the chassis has to be welded for the 2014 roadlicense. Left and right side:
left side, exhoust is a killer to the chassis.
Fixed the read licence plate light:
Some other music, I got the road license until 09-2014, so lets make another 30k kilometers!
I bleed them alone; put a plastic hose on the bleeder(s) and a old tube of brakehose on the other end of the plastic in a bottle with a little bottom of brakefluid and no need for help, it bleeds by gravity anyway.
picture is the materials for a new line (buying prebuild is far more easier!)
-there is an old front soft brakeline with minor cracks near the metal.
-one spanner #10 #11 with opening to close the brakelines (for opening cut them and use a proper #10)
-one tool to cut the new lines (no sawing), and a tool to press them. (for toyota you press twice on one side to make a proper connection) (press 1=OP.1 DIN1 4.75 mm and press 2= OP2 4.75/6 mm 3/16 and 1/4 in.
Remove the old pistons with air or grease (change brake to grease zerc, fat is way better than air!)
brake caliper bolts 12x1,25 : toyota part number 90101-12060
Fixed a water ski pylon for the boat:
So 19 september 2013 the yearly road check has to be done...
Fixed and welded a lot:
Only the chassis has to be welded for the 2014 roadlicense. Left and right side:
left side, exhoust is a killer to the chassis.
Fixed the read licence plate light:
Some other music, I got the road license until 09-2014, so lets make another 30k kilometers!
Last edited:
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #33
Brake rubbers hate high water pressure cleaning:
I stripped the upper brake caliper bolt (well the previous grease monkey did...)
Finally the 12x 1.25 helicoil set is delivered!
The tap needs a separate tool to fit on a wrench.
Tha manual just states insert the helicoil,nothing about how far, a few pictures, but thats is it.
The tap will not fit on any wrench (its a square 9x9 mm), and will not fith on both 12mm tools I bought.
The mandrel is 8x8 mm
The tap is the most important step so I need another tool to turn the tap and make a new thread.
Maybe I should have bought the HELICOIL M12x1,25 Step Tapper with guiding thread.
For HELICOIL® M12x1,25 inserts
Tapper uses damaged thread as guide to center coaxial bigger thread for Helicoil inserts.
Allows perfectly aligned tapping for Helicoil inserts in one step.
The mandrel fits on all the tools, but the tap needed a bigger tool!
Why do they use two different sizes...
I am kind of DONE with repairs..., tomorrow I will be better
I stripped the upper brake caliper bolt (well the previous grease monkey did...)
Finally the 12x 1.25 helicoil set is delivered!
The tap needs a separate tool to fit on a wrench.
Tha manual just states insert the helicoil,nothing about how far, a few pictures, but thats is it.
The tap will not fit on any wrench (its a square 9x9 mm), and will not fith on both 12mm tools I bought.
The mandrel is 8x8 mm
The tap is the most important step so I need another tool to turn the tap and make a new thread.
Maybe I should have bought the HELICOIL M12x1,25 Step Tapper with guiding thread.
For HELICOIL® M12x1,25 inserts
Tapper uses damaged thread as guide to center coaxial bigger thread for Helicoil inserts.
Allows perfectly aligned tapping for Helicoil inserts in one step.
The mandrel fits on all the tools, but the tap needed a bigger tool!
Why do they use two different sizes...
I am kind of DONE with repairs..., tomorrow I will be better
Last edited:
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #34
I have a question, has anyone installed a parking sensor for sensing a hole while reversing?
I almost drove in a ditch in the dark while turning the car, so I am looking for a sensor that states the distance from the chassis to the ground behind the rear-wheels
24 Volt water cooker, handy!
5000 watt 24v to 220v:
Some hooks to connect the winch to the landcruiser, and snatch blocks:
SOLD!, sadly the road-tax went from 0 to 2500 Euro every year, that was to much for my friend, so sold to export:
I almost drove in a ditch in the dark while turning the car, so I am looking for a sensor that states the distance from the chassis to the ground behind the rear-wheels
24 Volt water cooker, handy!
5000 watt 24v to 220v:
Some hooks to connect the winch to the landcruiser, and snatch blocks:
SOLD!, sadly the road-tax went from 0 to 2500 Euro every year, that was to much for my friend, so sold to export:
Last edited:
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #35
EDIT: get a 35 mm block heater, fits under the 30 mm one I used, lower is better...
35mm:
DEFA does sell a 35 mm heater, but dont know if it will fit.
11431B 90331-35003 PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK). PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) (08.1980-08.1987) 2H,12HT..HJ6*; OD=35,ID=14
11431A 96411-43500 PLUG, NO.1. PLUG, TIGHT, NO.1 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) (08.1980-08.1987) 2H,12HT..HJ6*; OD=35
http://www.partsbase.org/toyota/land...ylinder-block/
http://www.sor.com/sorimages/product/052-50_i-diesel2-big.jpg
Other hj60 block heater thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/787510-coolant-leak.html#post9023041
11431B 90331-35003 PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK). PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) (08.1980-08.1987) 2H,12HT..HJ6*; OD=35,ID=14
11431A 96411-43500 PLUG, NO.1. PLUG, TIGHT, NO.1 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) (08.1980-08.1987) 2H,12HT..HJ6*; OD=35
http://www.partsbase.org/toyota/land...ylinder-block/
Looking for water freeze plug part # need one in the dashboard for if the heater breaks or ...
11116C PLUG, TIGHT, NO.3
96411‑43000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=30 12 € 5.01
(OD = Outside Diameter ID = Inside Diameter)
Below is also some info about the 50 mm freeze plug located 3 cm from the firewall (and with 3 cm space installation is impossible with the engine in the car, still looking for answers there)
I am looking for a heater and in the picture above is DEFA 411122 (Truck) 600 Watt:
But at this moment no EU webshop where I can order.
Found in Poland for 45 euro, I want one!
Of course the Germans have it, lol:
http://www.kuehlbox-profi.de/A411122
And I need the cable A460785 to connect it. So 73 euro for 411122 + 50 euro for A460785 =123 euro
123 and gone is my money...
Ended up with 203 euro delivery with DHL and I also "needed" a battery watch and 24V water cooker for tea and noodles
DEFA -Engine heater 411122
http://www.defa.com/en/automotive/warmup/find_your_engine_heater/
PDF:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936BcfemZUjZ0Z3Z2OUJucFE/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936BcfemZc3k1OHM1WUpDS3M/edit?usp=sharing
I got a package today, installing later or tomorrow @ daylight. EDIT: completly the worst accessible place to find and place this $#@^thing. Remove hood, remove heater hoses, remove engine, remove rear hatch, remove the fu.. himalaya to fit this thing...
The freezeplug 30 mm part number is:
11116C PLUG, TIGHT, NO.3
96411‑43000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=30 12 € 5.01
Dont slam it in completely! I ordered the freeze plug to keep in the glove box, the old one can also be reused.
First make sure the device works, test in water.
Thoroughly clean the frost plug hole.
Test the dept with an 28 mm test probe, it is only a few mm and it should fit, but test it first.
Fit the heater.
Position the connector in the clock direction indicated in the table. EDIT: Forget clock, it does not matter what direction the plug faces.
Because the heater can leak I want to try to face the plugside upwards so it wont leak into the plug.
Tap the heater straight into the frost plug hole.
Make sure there is clearance all the way between the shoulder of the heater and the engine block(1)
The outside plug needs to be fitted so that the cap is facing down, and I needed to cut a hole in the lowest point of the plug to drain water.
So this thing can only be installed in the last freeze plug next to the firewall!
The first 2 plugs are covered, one is not covered but no room to install, then two are covered.
The furthest place possible is the only place that has room to install, really a back breaker!
Maybe I should wait till after the winter to install this
what a pain if a picture is hardly possible!
So I hit the freezeplug and it turnd sideways, then it was easy to pull out with pliers.
Needed 7 liter of coolant to refill (after burping)
THE HOLE!
cleaning it to remove old residu I also used some sand-clothing (not sandpaper)
Yes it works, takes at least two hours or more to heat, after one hour the thermostat (opposite side of the heater) is also getting warm, also the upper large hose on the radiator is getting warm, good progress.
Still testing.
There is also a 50 mm heater and you need 96411‑45000 PLUG, TIGHT, 50 mm to close it.
The 50 mm heater has te be installed on the lower freeze plug on the cabin side.
There are a few options and sizes:
But please search further before you order.
-rad heater: dont want it, when the engine is warm the thermostat will open and the rad wil be heated by the engine.
-oil pan sticky type heater: dont want it, it will heat the north-pole before the engine warms up.
-inline heater, dont want it, dont know what hose to cut and I want the heater mounted in the block.
-35 or 50 mm heaters: 50mm seems to have the best and lowest position in the block, 35 aint there, 30 is.
-place of the heater:lower seems better, warm water seems to go up, ideally you get a flow.
-The block draining plugs are mentioned to be fitted with a heater.
-more things to consider?
Other plugs for sale and dimensions:
11116A PLUG, TIGHT, NO.1
96411‑42000 2H..HJ60, OD=20 3 € 3.29
11116B PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2
96411‑42500 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=25 6 € 4.34
11116C PLUG, TIGHT, NO.3
96411‑43000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=30 12 € 5.01
11116D PLUG, TIGHT, NO.4
96411‑45000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=50 1 € 5.15
30 mm freeze plug, below glowplug, behind edic, before firewall, number 6 :
-need to make some kind of puller to get it out EDIT:slam with a punch and it will turn, grab with pliers and pull out, can be reused for emergency.
-have to find a way to slam it in without damage, the manual does not mention any type of sealant/stuff. EDIT: just take the brass drift used for the knuckle and gently tap it in, after every tap go to the other side.
-Maybe the 30 mm installation is a lot easier then those poor souls with an 50 mm
50 mm plug rear 96411‑45000 PLUG, TIGHT, seems impossible, or maybe you have time to remove the engine:
Maybe the radiator side is possible? it has been done, but you might also have to move the mont blanc.
This 30 or 50 mm thing is the same as knuckle repacking with special holy water absorbing-expelling grease that only exists in mad peoples minds, 50 mm seems best
EDIT: 50 mm seems impossible to install on the lower freeze-plug on cabin side. Engine has to be removed! (?)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/564438-need-block-heater-part.html
So part two was installing the cable properly, took me more time than the installation of the heater.
Installation in the grill:
35mm:
DEFA does sell a 35 mm heater, but dont know if it will fit.
11431B 90331-35003 PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK). PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) (08.1980-08.1987) 2H,12HT..HJ6*; OD=35,ID=14
11431A 96411-43500 PLUG, NO.1. PLUG, TIGHT, NO.1 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) (08.1980-08.1987) 2H,12HT..HJ6*; OD=35
http://www.partsbase.org/toyota/land...ylinder-block/
http://www.sor.com/sorimages/product/052-50_i-diesel2-big.jpg
Other hj60 block heater thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/787510-coolant-leak.html#post9023041
11431B 90331-35003 PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK). PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) (08.1980-08.1987) 2H,12HT..HJ6*; OD=35,ID=14
11431A 96411-43500 PLUG, NO.1. PLUG, TIGHT, NO.1 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) (08.1980-08.1987) 2H,12HT..HJ6*; OD=35
http://www.partsbase.org/toyota/land...ylinder-block/
Looking for water freeze plug part # need one in the dashboard for if the heater breaks or ...
11116C PLUG, TIGHT, NO.3
96411‑43000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=30 12 € 5.01
(OD = Outside Diameter ID = Inside Diameter)
Below is also some info about the 50 mm freeze plug located 3 cm from the firewall (and with 3 cm space installation is impossible with the engine in the car, still looking for answers there)
I am looking for a heater and in the picture above is DEFA 411122 (Truck) 600 Watt:
But at this moment no EU webshop where I can order.
Found in Poland for 45 euro, I want one!
Of course the Germans have it, lol:
http://www.kuehlbox-profi.de/A411122And I need the cable A460785 to connect it. So 73 euro for 411122 + 50 euro for A460785 =123 euro
123 and gone is my money...
Ended up with 203 euro delivery with DHL and I also "needed" a battery watch and 24V water cooker for tea and noodles
DEFA -Engine heater 411122
http://www.defa.com/en/automotive/warmup/find_your_engine_heater/
PDF:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936BcfemZUjZ0Z3Z2OUJucFE/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936BcfemZc3k1OHM1WUpDS3M/edit?usp=sharing
I got a package today, installing later or tomorrow @ daylight. EDIT: completly the worst accessible place to find and place this $#@^thing. Remove hood, remove heater hoses, remove engine, remove rear hatch, remove the fu.. himalaya to fit this thing...
The freezeplug 30 mm part number is:
11116C PLUG, TIGHT, NO.3
96411‑43000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=30 12 € 5.01
Dont slam it in completely! I ordered the freeze plug to keep in the glove box, the old one can also be reused.
First make sure the device works, test in water.
Thoroughly clean the frost plug hole.
Test the dept with an 28 mm test probe, it is only a few mm and it should fit, but test it first.
Fit the heater.
Position the connector in the clock direction indicated in the table. EDIT: Forget clock, it does not matter what direction the plug faces.
Because the heater can leak I want to try to face the plugside upwards so it wont leak into the plug.
Tap the heater straight into the frost plug hole.
Make sure there is clearance all the way between the shoulder of the heater and the engine block(1)
The outside plug needs to be fitted so that the cap is facing down, and I needed to cut a hole in the lowest point of the plug to drain water.
So this thing can only be installed in the last freeze plug next to the firewall!
The first 2 plugs are covered, one is not covered but no room to install, then two are covered.
The furthest place possible is the only place that has room to install, really a back breaker!
Maybe I should wait till after the winter to install this
what a pain if a picture is hardly possible!So I hit the freezeplug and it turnd sideways, then it was easy to pull out with pliers.
Needed 7 liter of coolant to refill (after burping)
THE HOLE!
cleaning it to remove old residu I also used some sand-clothing (not sandpaper)
Yes it works, takes at least two hours or more to heat, after one hour the thermostat (opposite side of the heater) is also getting warm, also the upper large hose on the radiator is getting warm, good progress.
Still testing.
There is also a 50 mm heater and you need 96411‑45000 PLUG, TIGHT, 50 mm to close it.
The 50 mm heater has te be installed on the lower freeze plug on the cabin side.
There are a few options and sizes:
But please search further before you order.
-rad heater: dont want it, when the engine is warm the thermostat will open and the rad wil be heated by the engine.
-oil pan sticky type heater: dont want it, it will heat the north-pole before the engine warms up.
-inline heater, dont want it, dont know what hose to cut and I want the heater mounted in the block.
-35 or 50 mm heaters: 50mm seems to have the best and lowest position in the block, 35 aint there, 30 is.
-place of the heater:lower seems better, warm water seems to go up, ideally you get a flow.
-The block draining plugs are mentioned to be fitted with a heater.
-more things to consider?
Other plugs for sale and dimensions:
11116A PLUG, TIGHT, NO.1
96411‑42000 2H..HJ60, OD=20 3 € 3.29
11116B PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2
96411‑42500 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=25 6 € 4.34
11116C PLUG, TIGHT, NO.3
96411‑43000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=30 12 € 5.01
11116D PLUG, TIGHT, NO.4
96411‑45000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=50 1 € 5.15
30 mm freeze plug, below glowplug, behind edic, before firewall, number 6 :
-need to make some kind of puller to get it out EDIT:slam with a punch and it will turn, grab with pliers and pull out, can be reused for emergency.
-have to find a way to slam it in without damage, the manual does not mention any type of sealant/stuff. EDIT: just take the brass drift used for the knuckle and gently tap it in, after every tap go to the other side.
-Maybe the 30 mm installation is a lot easier then those poor souls with an 50 mm
50 mm plug rear 96411‑45000 PLUG, TIGHT, seems impossible, or maybe you have time to remove the engine:
Maybe the radiator side is possible? it has been done, but you might also have to move the mont blanc.
This 30 or 50 mm thing is the same as knuckle repacking with special holy water absorbing-expelling grease that only exists in mad peoples minds, 50 mm seems best
EDIT: 50 mm seems impossible to install on the lower freeze-plug on cabin side. Engine has to be removed! (?)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/564438-need-block-heater-part.html
So part two was installing the cable properly, took me more time than the installation of the heater.
Installation in the grill:
Last edited:
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Thread starter
- #37
So it was time to take the broken birfields apart, very easy to do, no clips to remove.
The grease had entered the cage of the birfield so definitely a good thing to grease from time to time.
But no water, no rust and a lot of grease and still clack clack sound in low 4x4 turns.
There is damage! good, so no way to fix it, only replace.
Just rotate the cage and remove one ball, then the next ball and then remove the cage.
HJ60 Landcruiser Birfield cage ball apart:
The grease had entered the cage of the birfield so definitely a good thing to grease from time to time.
But no water, no rust and a lot of grease and still clack clack sound in low 4x4 turns.
There is damage! good, so no way to fix it, only replace.
Just rotate the cage and remove one ball, then the next ball and then remove the cage.
HJ60 Landcruiser Birfield cage ball apart:
Last edited:
