Coolant leak

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Joined
Oct 5, 2011
Threads
34
Messages
464
Location
Pitt Meadows BC
All that talk about block heaters recently...my cruiser must've been overheard you guys. I believe I've sprung a leak right there at the block heater. :crybaby:

Big drip, that's sometimes there, sometimes not...coming down over the bellhousing at the rear of the engine. I traced it up to somewhere I cannot see...and surmised it must be coming from the block heater.

So I did quite a few searches, but couldn't come up with an adequate "here's how you do it" thread. I've never put in one nor taken one out before. Any ideas? I'm assuming I can't just take it out and slather with RTV and jam it back in right?

Your experiences would be much appreciated.
 
I got a package today, installing later or tomorrow @ daylight. EDIT: completly the worst accessible place to find and place this $#@^thing. Remove hood, remove heater hoses, remove engine, remove rear hatch, remove the fu.. himalaya to fit this thing...

The freezeplug 30 mm part number is:
11116C PLUG, TIGHT, NO.3
96411‑43000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=30 12 € 5.01


The two PDF are below: Dont slam it in completely! I ordered the freeze plug to keep in the glove box and I am afraid of the problem you have.

Thoroughly clean the frost plug hole.
Fit the heater.
Position the connector in the clock direction indicated in the table. EDIT: Forget clock, it does not matter what direction the plug faces.
Because you have a leaking one I want to try to face the plugside upwards so it wont leak into the plug.

Tap the heater straight into the frost plug hole. Make sure there is clearance all the way between the shoulder of the heater and the engine block(1)

file.php



https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6D936BcfemZUjZ0Z3Z2OUJucFE/edit?pli=1

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6D936BcfemZc3k1OHM1WUpDS3M/edit?pli=1


file.php


So this thing can only be installed in the last freeze plug next to the firewall!
The first 2 plugs are covered, one is not covered but no room to install, then two are covered.
The furthest place possible is the only place that has room to install, really a back breaker!
Maybe I should wait till after the winter to install this :rimshot: what a pain if a picture is hardly possible!
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How much was that? What wattage and where did you source it? Looking for a replacement heater.
Edit:
I guess those wount work on 120v in canada eh?
Cool site though
 
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HJ 60 thanks for the great writeup!! So remove everything including the bloody Himalayas???:bang:Damn...I was THINKING it was going to be hard just by the fact that there doesn't seem to be any room to get my head near enough to even see the damn thing, let alone get tools in there.

Thanks for the google docs link too. That picture with the hammer was funny...if there's so little room, how the heck do we hammer it in?

Either way, mine came with the block heater...I know it still works and is good, but vibration must've shaken it loose.

One question though...you state that its a 30 mm orifice? Almost all my searches on 'Mud seem to indicate that I'm looking for a 50 mm block heater.
 
Hi Mark, It seems you have a 50 mm heater and you need 96411‑45000 PLUG, TIGHT, 50 mm to close it.

There are a few options and sizes, but in this thread (on page 2 at this moment) sved gave the dimension and picture of a 30 mm setup so that was enough for me to order when I found the partnumber.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/525082-2h-freeze-plug-block-heater.html

But please search further before you order.
-rad heater: dont want it, when the engine is warm the thermostat will open and the rad wil be heated by the engine.
-oil pan sticky type heater: dont want it, it will heat the north-pole before the engine warms up.
-inline heater, dont want it, dont know what hose to cut and I want the heater mounted in the block.
-35 or 50 mm heaters: 50mm seems to have the best and lowest position in the block, 35 aint there, 30 is.
-place of the heater:lower seems better, warm water seems to go up, ideally you get a flow.
-more things to consider?

Other plugs for sale and dimensions:
11116A PLUG, TIGHT, NO.1
96411‑42000 2H..HJ60, OD=20 3 € 3.29
11116B PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2
96411‑42500 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=25 6 € 4.34
11116C PLUG, TIGHT, NO.3
96411‑43000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=30 12 € 5.01
11116D PLUG, TIGHT, NO.4
96411‑45000 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, OD=50 1 € 5.15

30 mm freeze plug, below glowplug, behind edic, before firewall, number 6 :
-need to make some kind of puller to get it out EDIT:slam with a punch and it will turn, grab with pliers and pull out, can be reused for emergency.
-have to find a way to slam it in without damage, the manual does not mention any type of sealant/stuff. EDIT: just take the brass drift used for the knuckle and gently tap it in, after every tap go to the other side.
-Maybe the 30 mm installation is a lot easier then those poor souls with an 50 mm :banana: :grinpimp:
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50 mm plug rear 96411‑45000 PLUG, TIGHT, seems impossible, or maybe you have time to remove the engine:
Maybe the radiator side is possible? it has been done, but you might also have to move the mont blanc.
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This 30 or 50 mm thing is the same as knuckle repacking with special holy water absorbing-expelling grease that only exists in mad peoples minds, 50 mm seems best :cheers:
EDIT: 50 mm seems impossible to install on the lower freeze-plug on cabin side. Engine has to be removed! (?)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/564438-need-block-heater-part.html
 
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That red cruiser looks like mine too, except mine isn't that clean and mine is grey. I think we can buy a generic block heater from lordco or napa and it should fit. Critical thing is the size.

I just had a look at it, and I can clearly see it leaking from the passenger side of the engine bay. I can't think of any easy way to get at it. Removing the hood might have to be a given, as well as maybe the EDIC motor, the intake manifold geez...this is going to take all day!!!
 
Hi Mark,

The 30 mm block heater I bought is installed and now heating for about 20 minutes :bounce::beer:
After 30 seconds it becomes to hot to hold, but it will not give a burning mark if you touch it.

But I am afraid you have a serious problem to reinstall a 50 mm one in the lower freeze plug.
The upper 50 mm freeze plug on cabin side is now hot in my HJ :clap: so it works for sure and 30 mm can get in done buit it takes some time. The 2 near cabin 30 mm freeze plugs are getting hotter as time goes by, maybe the fan side will also heat up. (water passes heat 4 times faster than air)
The heater lines are getting warm, enyoing this every minute, better than football, grabbing a beer :beer: :cheers:

I had to use a nice hammer to slam the old freeze plug out and slam the new heater in.
You (and I) dont have room for that at the cabin 50mm side that so I dont see any way to install a 50 mm heater :whoops:

First I was in doubt if I should have bought a 50 mm one but I just checked and maybe from below you can access it?

Good luck!

result, installed 30 mm heater:
(it is easier to swim up the niagara falls beating chuck norris than making this picture)
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Wow...you must have fingers and hands that can bend all ways to take that photo! Thanks man! So it looks like a really hard job just to get the old one out, never mind putting the new one in.

I am also getting old. Day before yesterday, I topped up the coolant. Yesterday, I drove the cruiser and the temps came up faster than it usually does. I thought geez, must've leaked out so drove by the Walmart to get some distilled water. Pop the hood and started to pour into the reservoir and then next the radiator itself oh heck, where's the bloody cap!!

Turns out I had forgotten to close the rad back the previous night. The cap was still there on top of the battery. To top things off, on the way out, I nearly had a head-on with some idiot turning left on me whilst I was going on a green light.

At least I know my brakes are good and those general tires grab good on icy roads!

But I still don't know how I'm going to take the old heater out and get a new one in...at least without turning into mr flexible of fantastic four.
 
What about some of that Leak Stop stuff? Pour the metal flakes in the Rad and hope for the best? It could be the $1.99 solution, but perhaps not, but maybe worth a try?
 
That stuff is ok at clogging up small holes. The problem is that its awesome at cloggin up passageways like in your rad and heater core. It is junk. If you feel you must use something like that, use black pepper. It wont settle easily, and tastes much better.
 
Quick update...

OK, so a quick update is in order here.
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It turns out that my block heater is in exactly the same place as yours, and that being the case, it must also be 30 mm. I can' remember now why I even suspected its 50.

So anyway, on Saturday (the only day it seems I have time) I took off the EDIC motor, and managed to get a good look at my block heater. I then ran the cruiser for over an hour, at fast idle. No leak. Pumped up the system to 17 psi. No leak. Waited all day for the damned thing to leak...I wanted to be sure it was that that was leaking. NO LEAK.

Fark. Maybe I got lucky I thought. Ah well, nothing left to do. Buttoned up the EDIC again, and here's where it went sideways...there's that little oil pressure thingy there. Without thinking too hard, and cos I was tired already of lying over the top of my engine bay, I took a good hold of the SPADE TERMINAL (uh-oh!) and shoved it into the spade that was sticking out of the side of the oil pressure thingy.

I happily went to start the engine. Right away, the oil pressure needle pegged to the top!! I thought...what the heck. Just as the realization of what I had done hit me, the damed gauge fogged up like it was gonna catch fire and I switched off the engine...too late.

Opened up the gauge cluster and took everything out only to see the OP gauge plastic had melted into itself. Faaaack. :bang:

So in I go again into the engine bay, attached the terminal to the (what the heck do you call something like that again?) nipply thingy and oh well, I'm thinking of getting an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. Ideas anyone?

Butthe saga is not over yet.

I started the car to drive it off. Then remembered, oh...I forgot to plug the block heater cable back in. Might as well do it, so I can just plug the heater in if it gets cold again.

Of course, you-all know by now what happens right? Yep, the fuggin' thing starts leaking again.

I've run out of time though. So I guess I'll just have to find a Saturday when I am free again and do this thing. At least I know for sure now where it leaks. Until that day, I'll just keep topping up with distilled water and coolant. Hope I get the ratio right! :idea:
 
Hi Mark, that is bad luck (but only one to blame :p)
Maybe just get one replacement from a demolished car because it will fit better than anything.

Can you make a picture of your heater? (maybe it has to be slammed in again)
There is not much room inside so I hope it is not slammed against the injector, I slammed mine in with a 20x2 cm brass drift (used also to loosen the cones in the front wheel) and the 1,5 kg hammer!

To work on it I have my left knee on the left battery and my right knee on the oil filler cap, maybe you have to ask someone to slam down the hood while your there, than that error is done and over with :bounce::whoops:
This is THE HOLE! :D
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Ok....so finally got down to doing this and not a moment too soon! Wife was complaining about the big puddles in the garage every morning under the cruiser! It seems the bloody thing bleeds more coolant when it's cold! Anyway, got down to my buddy's shop to use his handy-dandy 90 deg air ratchet to remove the EDIC. And really, this is all I had to remove. I then ordered the 30 mm block heater. Here's a couple of pix: image-3910295548.webp image-3935389389.webp image-2497664700.webp Guess what boys-n-girls, it didn't fit! 30 mm was too small. Measure the hole that I had on my block. Measured it many times and each time it seemed to be 35 mm! image-3676093651.webp A quick call to the friendly Lordco guy and he said, well we do have one that's for a GAS powered land cruiser, and yes it's 35 mm. It's in the warehouse though. So ok. Wait a couple of hours. It comes in, but it looks a lot cheaper looking than the 30 mm one. The metal looked like soft pot metal. And when I tried to turn the damn thing in the hole to try to get it to 12.00 o clock, I bent the bloody plug holder. But it fits!! I RTVed the o-ring and threw some salt over my back too just for good measure. As you can see, it's somewhere around 10.30 orientation. Not sure if that hurts, but after 2 days no leaks yet. Btw, hj60, I had a closer look at your pix. It appears the location you used was the one ABOVE mine. Yours is really close to the injector and yes it appears you need to move lotsa stuff to access it. Mine is I think the stock location, as this was installed at dealership in Kelowna (I found the receipt!) so only need to remove EDIC, which is three bolts. It's also lower in the block.

So, in conclusion, this job is not that hard...depending on which freeze plug you use I guess. :-)

image-3910295548.webp


image-3935389389.webp


image-2497664700.webp


image-3676093651.webp


image-2275465872.webp


image-507817272.webp
 
Thanks for the pictures, gotta love getting wrong parts, or ordering them, or well, it was wrong, but better anyway :D
I dont know if throwing salt near a HJ is making it feel better... :cheers:

The 35 mm place is better then mine if we keep the lowest place as best place. DEFA does sell 35 mm.

But mine does very well, I like it near the injector/glowplug because the glowplugs are very happy with the extra help.
They told me so and I never argue with glowplugs.
Aftermarket Block Heater 35mm

$59.00

Live in the extreme cold? Tired of the rough cold starts? Here is the perfect solution, a block heater that keeps your engine warm!


Fits B, 2B, 3B, 1HZ, 1HD-T, 1FZ-FE and all other engines with a 35mm freeze plug only.



http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44_97&products_id=1527


11431B 90331-35003 PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK). PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) (08.1980-08.1987) 2H,12HT..HJ6*; OD=35,ID=14

11431A 96411-43500 PLUG, NO.1. PLUG, TIGHT, NO.1 (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) (08.1980-08.1987) 2H,12HT..HJ6*; OD=35

http://www.partsbase.org/toyota/lan...-0l-diesel-mtm-1980-1987-eu-1-cylinder-block/

DEFA 35 mm, hard to find in europe , danish site, does need a lot of space, ..
DEFA Motorvarmer 381 600W, Ø= 35mm.
Varenummer 411381 EAN: 7042284113819

Picture mentioned by fey1:
http://www.sor.com/sorimages/product/052-50_i-diesel2-big.jpg
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Other hj60 block heater thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/525082-2h-freeze-plug-block-heater.html
 
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Just thought I'd report yet another coolant leak. This time it was the water pump. Simple maybe hour long job that only required removal of the right battery...actually probably didn't even need to remove that!

Had to order the part from eBay Australia though...it seems this part is either hard to find or ridiculously expensive for what it is!!

Next up (oh maybe next year lol) is to recore my radiator. A 10psi pressure test revealed some hissing sounds near the top. Oh well...the joys of old cars. [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone
 

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