The Dutch stole all 5-speed diesels! (nsfw?) HJ60: sillyprep

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And there is a new radiator coming, but I did not order it when finding a leak a the seam on top.
Now understand that seam leak = replace :bang:

Tested the old and new coolant with pH test paper, no color difference, try to stay above pH 7
Water has a pH of 7.0 and antifreeze has a pH of 10.5, so a 50-50 mix has a pH of 8.75, and that’s too acidic to protect the cooling system.
The pH value is a way of expressing the relative acidity of coolant. Acidity does cause corrosion.

How to test for electrolysis

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The radiator is leaking, started slowly and the power steering belt was making noise because it was slipping from the cooling liquid!
Then I drove 3000 km while adding water at every fuel stop (no problem)
But now it is leaking a lot, a small puddle when driving and parking so it is now not drivable anymore.

New radiator is ordered and I will start removing the old one.
EDIT: new radiator was not in stock so repaired the old one with melted tin. pressure test was ok at 1.8 bar an no air bubbles when submerged in water.



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Red is a vinegar test strip:
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The belt started slipping and it was a 3000 km process of denial :steer: :flipoff2: :steer: :cheers: :steer::idea::flush:
Landcruisers don't die fast, they slowly mention a anomaly:

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Started removal of radiator, spray with oil before removing bolts and nuts, some are never turned loose before!
Remove 6 bolts for the fan shroud and 4 long bolts from the radiator:
1-remove batteries and tray
2-remove under cover/protection plate
3-drain coolant and remove hoses (can be stuck and now the radiator is still attached and wont move)
4-remove fan shroud bolts (3 bolts both side), some a bit hidden, then rotate fan shroud upwards
5-remove 2 front radiator bolts (1 long each side on the front)
6-spray with penetrating oil from below and remove lower two radiator long bolts at the bottom side and move radiator a bit so it becomes loose, lift radiator straight out.

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This is one of the two long bolts that are used, pretty solid rusted so need good tools to remove, did not break in my HJ and used two long extensions straight up above radiator.

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A new rad was ordered but later status unavailable, as it was out decided to fix:
flush first, now I think the black stuff was radiator stop leak

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Should be possible but the seam just has to much movement from cooling down:

Heated up to high temps:

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Not nice but solid:

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pressure test at FSM 1.2 bar (cap opens at 0.9 bar)
And the old cap had a broken rubber so that one was not a closed system I think, after the repair the system was pressurized even after a few days standing the cap would hiss when taken off. Now the seam has opened so far it does not hold pressure anymore.

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Having fun while there, rust primer and paint.

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cleaned and painted/anti rust some more, not a nice job but removing the radiator is good preventive maintenance, nasty rust at the cabin carriers:

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Spend to much time painting but thought it was good to go and after 10 start and stops it was leaking agian so bought a new one :pig:

So painting something that has to be thrown away :( but the fan shroud looks better :wrench:

The foam seems to be from the factory so I got some from China and used that.
The foam covered the leaking seam so I could not see what was leaking.
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The radiator curtain is handy to keep the temperature high enough in freezing conditions, especially about minus 10 celcius degrees I need to use the curtain.

It has to be lubricated and cleaned, to mount roll it up as far as possible and slide the square rolling/moving pin in the holder like in the picture and attach the other round non moving side.
This way it will nicely roll up by itself:

HJ60 winter low temperature Radiator roller curtain mounting:

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Really easy to move the square pin by hand and roll a few turns, lubricate the spring trough hole:

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Waterpump, good tip, who and why mounted the pump with the weephole facing up, decided not to replace yet, no leaks.

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And the seam started leaking again but a bit further (mentioned on many webpages)

Ordered a new one, :princess: immediately mentioned to buy new: we don't want to get stranded but I was stubborn :slap:

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TOYOTA part # 1640068100 radiator

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER (_J4_) 4.0 D (HJ47_V) 08/80 bis 10/84 76 kW / 103 PS 3980 cm3 6 Diesel Geländewagen geschlossen
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER (_J6_) 4.0 Diesel (HJ60) 01/82 bis 12/85 74 kW / 101 PS 3980 cm3 6 Diesel Geländewagen geschlossen
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER (_J6_) 4.0 Diesel (HJ60_V) 10/81 bis 01/88 77 kW / 105 PS 3980 cm3 6 Diesel Geländewagen geschlossen
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER (_J6_) 4.0 Turbo-D (HJ61_V) 10/85 bis 12/89 100 kW / 136 PS 3980 cm3 6 Diesel Geländewagen geschlossen
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER Pick-up (_J4_) 4.0 D (HJ47_P) 08/80 bis 10/84 76 kW / 103 PS 3980 cm3 6 Diesel Pick-up

Length: 400 mm
Wide: 610 mm
Weight: 11,46 kg
Size: 400x610x48
Wide: 48 mm

The fluid is Chrystal clear, 100% blue:

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New radiator arrived. A few months ago I ordered a new radiator cap and it was to big, ordered a small one, (got a leak :censor:) and sold the big one.
New rad needs a bigger cap, the one I just sold :bang: :clap:

But it is no problem, today got two front split rims balanced with a lot of lead.
Lokka carrier has to be installed and the new rad too, I think the new bigger cap will be here before I am ready to test drive.

Still wondering why and what happened with the big and small cap and how to know what type is in what building year.
I hope the leaking seam was not a result of a leaking head gasket :skull:

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tire 1: splitring side 35+35+35=105 gram
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tire 1: 35+35=70 gram
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tire 2: 40+35+20=95 gram
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tire 2: splitring side 35+40+40=115 gram

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Diff and diff carrier are cleaned and removed old gasket to ensure no leaking, ready to reinstall. A lot off work under the car, but nice weather :wrench::)
cleaning tools:

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There is no point in adding grease trough the additional grease zerc as it just pushes trough the seal and ends up inside the axle carrier :hmm:
When the birfs were worn I have added a lot of grease that never game out at the felt gasket side.

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