The Dutch stole all 5-speed diesels! (nsfw?) HJ60 and BJ40

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They make some rollig noise, not balanced yet, but first mud encounter is there:

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So this is what I need if I want to repair myself:

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Your cruiser looks good with those pizza-cutters!!
I like it!
I have also just acquired six OEM split rims for my FJ62 as well.
I still need to scrub and paint them, thinking I'll go for the Toyota dark grey rim colour.
I would love to get those Michelin tires like you have, but according to the dealer they as not available in my country any more.
Best I can get after the Michelin is the General SAG 750R16.
 
Thanks @Petoors the tires are available here, price € 140 :

Banden Kicken | Winterbanden, Zomerbanden, Militaire banden, Landbouwbanden, Truckbanden, Nieuwe banden

Request info here: Banden Kicken | Winterbanden, Zomerbanden, Militaire banden, Landbouwbanden, Truckbanden, Nieuwe banden
Bericht:= message
V / thick at 4x4 banden
Naam:* = name
Postcode:* = zip
Gemeente:*= town or district
E-mail:* = drum sound or smoke color
Telefoon:*= telephone

And to send click the red verzenden button

I hope it works out for you, they are really heavy so shipping gold might be cheaper.


Before a new engine or heating cooler is installed, the cooling system should be cleaned to
remove corrosion, alien elements and other pollutions.
The new cooler is to be installed into a clean cooling system; the anticorrosive character of
the new cooling liquid ensures a maximum life time.
1. Remove drain screw for the cooling liquid (mostly back of the engine or at the lowest place) and let out the old
liquid. In this low place most of the alien elements are collected. Fasten drain screw again.
2. Loosen as many water hoses as possible so that all corrosive materials which are in tubes, connecting flanges
or in the engine block, can be removed. Reconnect the water hoses.
3. Fill the cooling system with water and add cleaning liquid.
4. Ensure in stand that the vehicle has operating temperature.
5. Loosen lid of the compensation container (hot water under pressure) and let out the cooling water completely
(remove drain screw again).
6. Scour out engine and cooler with clean water thoroughly. Scour out every connection until the outcoming water
is clean. Clean thoroughly, the retarded deposits could soil the new radiator.
7. Connect the radiator hoses at the radiator. Maybe the hose clips must be replaced because they have got
fragile after the remove.
8. Mount drain screw again into the engine block and fill in 50% antifreeze into the cooling system according to
manufacturer’s recommendation.
For the cleaning of the cooling system only products of well-known manufacturers should be used. Please consider
their frost protection rules.
If you do not hold on to this installation guidelines we do not take on any guarantee.
 
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Busy installing front lokka and waiting for new radiator : removed radiator, birfs and driveshaft and diff bolts, now diff is ready to release but needs some tapping trick :hmm:

I did not realize the birfs have to be removed because the front of the axle is closed, only the rear axle has a dual cover.

last time eveything was cleaned and greased so the studs just needed 4 taps with the brass drift and eveything comes apart without issue :wrench::banana:

The insert helicoil M12x1.25 I used for one brake caliper is staying in place so that is also fine.

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Front lokka is type TOY-FO-406 and rear not full floater is type TOY-RO-404‏
FRONT Lokka differential lock installation instruction PDF (9 pages):

Lokka diff lock installation instructions 2015.pdf


No cork gasket needed, only paper:
42181-60060 Paper gasket for diff/housing
42183-35010 Cork Gasket for cover/housing

Here is the FSM, it keeps on pointing to another chapter :worms:
Front axle FA-28
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RA-17 drive pinion preload 9-13 Kg

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Front diff is out (and heavy :skull:)
Looks fine I think, no loose bolts but there is to much grease so I have to stop adding grease trough the zerc.

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All bolt stayed in place, easy to loosen them and the carrier needed some rubber mallet blows and wd40 around.
Replaced diff oil in 2014 april @ 285000 km so needs new oil:

All gaskets are broken, I have new ones but even the ones I replaced some time ago looked bad.

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Problem: One spacer does not fit and is not spinning freely on the axlegear, and it locks up:

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LOKKA pin does not fit, this is the second time one pin does not fit, all pins get stuck here,
only way is to slide the pin in before installation in the carrier!

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It is in, gasket side cleaned and ready to put it back in (new gaskets, pre load :bang::crybaby: )
I will use a sealant as the cork in the rear is still leaking.
NO WAY I want to remove all the stuff only for a leaking gasket!

The difference with the rear axle is the rear has the C-clips.

The measurement of the 1st gap (spacer to cross-shaft clearance) is 0.17/0.16" (must be from 0,06 to max 0,20) and intercam spacing is again at end of scale: 165"
I will not install modified spacers but have them ready to be machined because I would prefer middle of scale at the intercam spacing:

PDF manual again : Lokka diff lock installation instructions 2015.pdf

The spacer is like the two in the rear axle 1.75 mm: (0.0688976378 inches)
fact: The spacers must be a bit wider it I want to close the gap
fact: I can add 0.02" each side and not hit the cross shaft
fact mm and inch are difficult to use and Lokka has them wrong in the manual:
0.002 inches = 0.0508 millimeters
So I need spacers size 1.80mm

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Painted metal plate, getting used to remove stuff and then spend to much time cleaning it up but it stops the rust.

My professional spray-booth never lets me down, the advanced heating system is environmentally controlled:

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