The Cursed Build

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Drain the oil, look for chunks.

Seems like the truck wouldn't even move if it was that messed up.
 
Just changed the oil since the differential gasket was leaking. And I haven't seen any chunks which has surprised me.
 
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I agree, my guess is a little sludge attached to the magnetic plug if equipped, and some ugly fluid. Maybe not as ugly as my profile pic!
 
Well there was nothing on the plug and the fluid is new again. For about the 3rd time this year already. But I may just use this opportunity to buy and ARB and put it back there. I've always liked ARB's. Plus I'd have on board air.
 
If you can afford an ARB then go for it. Of you decide that you need a stock carrier with open spider gears then give me a shout, I might have one set that I haven't welded up!
 
Must have been some crappy oil or something as now it's working the way it should. I may still get an ARB locker for the rear anyways since I've always wanted a rear locker
 
Nice, glad to hear you got it working. A frustrating day of breakage can cloud your mind and cause you dream up the worst case scenario. I know I've done it!
 
Oh it truly does. It's honestly the most I've broken while wheeling in a long time. Last time something major broke my battery shorted its self when it hit my hood.
 
Went out yesterday and played around in some snow. Used my winch about 5 times, once for me the other 4 for the other truck I was with. I'm even more impressed with the KM2's. Where the other truck had dynapro MT's that just didn't cut it, I had 5 psi to try and get them out and so I could go around easier and they were at 15 and the tires just couldn't clean themselves out. But when i got home I found out I has a power steering leak. It's the hose from the box to pump, the leak is at the pump end and I first though it was the pump but I found out the fluid was getting past screw end on the hose, in other words going between the fitting and hose. I've got a new one coming from Napa on Tuesday and for now I've just removed the belt, which I'm waiting on a new one because the old on inverted it's self but stayed on the pulley somehow.
 
Found out what I'm going to run exhaust wise. A LCE header to a straight pipe with no cat to a flowmaster 50 turned on its side for clearance (still debating on this) to a quick turn tail pipe
 
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Went and started my truck this morning and got a nice blue cloud from the tail pipe. No smoke while driving so I'm thinking it's the valve stem seals. If someone can correct me if I'm wrong that'd be great.
 
If someone with sliders doesn't mind helping me, I need the measurement of the scab plate on the frame and a picture of what the gussets look like, how far apart the legs are and if you could tell me how far it stick out from the rocker that'd be wonderful. I'm going to build my own.
 
There's no absolute dimensions or plating design, you have to design what you want. Mine have 4 legs off the frame, most have only 3. I Plated mine to the frame with 1/4" thick plate that is in a diamond shape, with little triangle gussets on top of the legs. They are extremely stiff, the frame will twist before the legs will bend. I put my first tube right below the seam in the body, then kicked the second outboard tube up to just clear the bottom of the doors. Then I added another vertical tube to protect the corner of the bed and cab.

A friend of mine did all the bending to my dimensions, then I did all the cutting, mitering, and welding. They were a LOT of work but I'm very happy with them. I have a 1" body lift to accommodate the legs, BTW.

Complete:
P1010090.webp


Sample leg:
P1010088.webp


Prior to painting & installing:
p1010071.webp


P1010090.webp
 
Passenger side is done. The part under the rocker is 2"x2" .25 as well as the legs, the outter part is 1.25x1.25 .120 square tubing. I only went with two legs because with the flatbed these sliders are only 50" long. I just need to weld the legs on the drivers side and drill the top hole to run bolts through them as I'm bolting on vs weld on.

IMG_20160310_143410096_HDR.webp
 
I may also be making some half doors for the summer. Since all I do is drive my truck to work and back then.
 
So I need some input from you guys, I'm getting ready to leave my home town to go to Utah for some more schooling. Where I live the speed limits are conservative, 50-60 tops. In Utah the highest it goes is 80. With this in mind do you guys think I should do some engine work and a header on my 84 and drive it down there with the 22re; or should I get a wrecked Tacoma and put a 3rz in my old 89 I flipped and drive that with more power? I'd be buying a whole taco so I'd have transmission, engine, wiring, rear axle and whatever else I would need, but the 89 is totaled from flipping it. So insurance would only be liability while my '84 is fully covered. My only concern with the 84 in Utah is a stock solid axle that's lifed and winched would be something someone might steal over an 89 with ifs
 
I think if you really need to drive 80 mph you should sell your truck and get a safer car. These old trucks just aren't built to go that fast and aren't safe doing it. Mine gets scary over 70 mph.
 
I had the same thought but with how much this truck has taught me I couldn't let it go. So I may just take the slow lane like normal and at max do 65. The re's are reliable but I feel like even if the truck could do 80 safely the engine couldn't take that speed for a long time without needing a full rebuild which I'd rather not do right now.
 
View attachment 1205908 All but one has a cam/rocker arm/valves/cover

I have both the pear shaped ports and the original two round holes.


Tanner, what year range do you have parts for? I'm putting a '90 extra cab back on the road and may need a few things... I'm just up by Blaine, and get to Whidby every few months to camp at Deception or Fort Casey.
 

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