a hundred bucks for a drill bit and tap.... it really doesn't take long until you're at a 350. Gen 1 Vortecs last at least 200,000 miles without need of anything (as long as the oil cooler remained attached).... $200-$300 and you can swap for a far better motor. I know it's an annoying refrain - but if you're going to pull the motor, having something cheap stuffed in there for if (when) the inevitable roadblock happens would be more than a good idea. To be clear, my idea is buy a 1997-2000 Vortec motor from a Tahoe or truck for a couple hundred dollars, get a hundred dollar intake (dual plane), clean the snot out of the outside, rattle can it and stuff it in with your accessories, carb, and distributor.... if you're really doing well, you can get a complete motor and sell the stuff you won't use (EFI) for as much as you sold the motor....
that said, make sure the motor isn't junk - pull a valve cover to check for the penzoil buildup and make sure the cooling system is operational (the orange stuff plugs passages if it's not changed).
I'm sounding like a broken record, at this point, because I've got this debate started in 2 threads (my own fault). The main objective of this next project was originally NOT to swap engines. The objective is to move the motor mounts, change out the clutch, which is 100% on its way out, change the transmission cover, get proper driveline angles, and repair the leaky, shot exhaust. This whole debate started because, with the engine out, it becomes a "while I'm in there" project to replace it if it turns out to be bad. The reason I'm thinking about bucking all common advice and wisdom, and just running the 283 for a few more years is:
1. It has shown little or no cause for concern that it is bad. It isn't too smokey, it has good compression numbers across all 8 cylinder, idles smooth. The only concerning data, so far, is the leak down test - which was performed on a cold engine, by an amateur. It only takes me missing TDC by a tiny bit to leave a valve cracked open and totally screw the pooch. As such, I'm not sure how much faith I put in the leak-down numbers.
NOTE: As I mentioned in the other thread: I will not buy a single part for the 283 until it is out of the truck, with valve covers and oil pan off for further inspection. If there is something obviously wrong at that point, I won't really have a choice.
2. Admitted impatience to get this thing back on the road: If I save up for a crate engine, It will be an additional year before I can afford it. I'm on a shoestring with this project and I don't see that changing. With budget tight, if I can re-seal the 283, drop it back in, and actually enjoy driving it for a couple years while I collect the money for bodywork, tires, paint, etc. to me, it's worth the couple hundred "wasted" on this engine to actually drive it.
Who knows, maybe it'll blow up in 6 months after I drop it back in, then you can all come point and laugh and say "I told you so." In either case, the whole reason I bought this truck was to be a learning experience. I like to mess with things, so the actual labor is part of the fun for me.
@SuperBuickGuy - your Vortec idea is a good one, and very likely the route I will take if this engine turns out to be in bad shape. For what it's worth, it seems like the going rate for a 90,000 mile, 1998ish vortec is about $600, if I pull it. Not too bad...A couple questions though:
1. CAN you even carb an EFI vortec? Do the old Gen 1 intake manifolds still just bolt right up?
2. I'm assuming they've done away with mechanical fuel pumps. Not saying an electric pump would be a bad wiring project - just thinking that a significantly more modern engine would be more than a simple "drop in." (i.e.: emissions controls, computers, sensors, etc.)
3. Motor Mounts: I thought with Gen III engines they changed the mounts and exhaust manifolds. Am I wrong? If I set up the truck for Gen I mounts and manifolds, would it still be possible to drop in a Vortec later?
