Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

[Weber Sarge]

Just fyi - the reason for the inserts being so long was to add some resistance to the adjuster screws , first attempt with shorter ones didn't want to hold aiming adjustments very well . Much of this is probably due to the springs being old on the buckets , but the longer inserts worked out great .
Sarge

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Good info - thanks!

Now I just need to find a garage door with 25ft. of parking in front of it to align the headlights...those are in short supply here in the burbs...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

LET THERE BE LIGHT!

After a detour through my jacked up charging system, cutting my bezel off with a dremel, and a trip down memory lane regarding lawnmowers, the IPF headlights are finally in, and aimed. I drove it over to my parents house yesterday, since I could get a relatively flat surface with 25ft. to back-up.

Step 1. Remove all the bikes, mowers, gas cans, snakes, etc.

Found this little guy hybernating under the mower. Totally harmless, but totally in the way. Warmed him up a bit and put him back outside.

Headlight Aiming:
1. Put a full tank of gas in the truck, checked all tire pressure to make sure it's sitting level.
2. Make your parents think you are going to drive it into their dining room. Also make sure the truck is perfectly square to the wall (measured 35" from both headlights)
3. With the 40 as close to the wall as you can get it, and still be able to work in front of it, transfer a tape line that is level from the bottom of the headlights, and the verticles should be centered to the headlights.

4. Measure 25 feet straight back from the wall. Lay down a tape line in the driveway marking the 25ft line. Fire up the headlights, and back the truck up so that the headlights are in line with the 25 foot line

5. Futz around the the headlight adjustment screws until the "hot spots" at the center of the light pattern are adjusted about 2 inches below, and two inches to the right of the crosshairs on the wall. HINT: Don't do this during the day, like I did, it is tough to see the hot-spots. Pictures were taken in the afternoon, fine tuning was done at night.

Here's a decent shot where you can see the nice sharp cut-off these IPF housings provide.

As I mentioned, the "fine tuning" (particularly left-to-right adjustment) was done at night, with a folding chair leaned up against the bumper to block one headlight at a time, so I could focus on the individual beams.

 

[Weber Sarge]

That sharp cutoff makes the IPF a bit of a pain to adjust the left and right beam spots , but they are great housings for the coin .
Sarge

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Reinstall Bezel

I had read that there were originally rubber spacers on these trucks behind the bezel to hold it off the body slightly. I opted to pick up some 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch nylon spacers at the hardware store. I also picked up some 25mm M6x1.0 cap screws to replace the JIS screws I had sawed apart to get the bezel off.

I started out trying the 1/2in spacers. I wasn't particularly happy - the gap seemed enormous:

I found that a 1/4 inch spacer, with a stainless washer on each end behind the bezel, gave me about the offset I was looking for:

I used some black rubber washers to hold the screw's head off the bezel. I think I'll go to something less "squishy" down the road (like nylon). And also add anti-seize to avoid having to cut these off in another 30 years. In the short term, my anti-seize was at the other garage, and the hardware store didn't have nylon washers.

Results -

I'm very happy with this new headlight combination. The IPF headlights and some Hella 100W/80W off-road headlights put out a TON of light. The cut-offs are nice and sharp. I drove the 40 around town for about 10 minutes at night. The beams actually put out more light than my Mazda's do now. Nobody high-beamed me, so I'll assume the aiming is close to correct.

Back to the spot where I took pictures of the original lights for a comparison, although pictures don't really do it justice:

In fact, the picture above does more to show what good grounds can do for your running lights!

Shockingly, I seem to have wired everything correctly on the first try - none of the new charging system melted down, the high beams and low beams both work, and at long last, I have working turn signals!

Next up, is moving the Clustertruck to its new, permanent home. There's going to be (another) long silence in this thread, since the garage will need to be set up as a shop, and I'm going to need to collect a ton more parts before I tackle the next (and possibly final) mechanical repair on this truck - Pulling the engine, re-locating it, replacing the clutch, and adjusting everything that goes along with it (driveshafts, exhaust, etc.).

In the coming weeks I plan to run a compression check on the old 283, and see if it's worth saving. I don't get a lot of smoke out the tail pipe, but it has progressively been puking more and more oil out the seals. It still gets decent oil pressure, but I've driven the truck about 75 miles since putting the axles back on, and it's already down about 3/4 of a quart. The main offender is a leak at the timing cover/front of oil pan somewhere. It's also leaking from a freeze/welch/core plug over the oil filter, which I worry might be an indicator as to the overall quality of the engine. If that plug is going, how long will it be before the rest go? Depending on the actual mechanical condition of the engine, I may re-seal this one, or pony up for a replacement (probably 350).

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

That sharp cutoff makes the IPF a bit of a pain to adjust the left and right beam spots , but they are great housings for the coin .
Sarge

Yeah, locating the hot-spots at the center was a bit of a pain. I still feel like I might be throwing a little too much light at oncoming traffic, but nobody seemed particularly pissed off when I was driving around last night.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I've found one way to gauge how they are set is to watch vehicles in front of you at a stop light waiting , as you approach - keep a close eye on how your lights show up on the rear of their vehicle . If you get within 15' or so and are putting light well inside a low sedan's back window - they are a bit too high . Flat backed vans are great for showing your pattern as well . I usually go out on those damp and foggy nights to set my headlights - you can easily see each beam individually .
Sarge

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I've found one way to gauge how they are set is to watch vehicles in front of you at a stop light waiting , as you approach - keep a close eye on how your lights show up on the rear of their vehicle . If you get within 15' or so and are putting light well inside a low sedan's back window - they are a bit too high . Flat backed vans are great for showing your pattern as well . I usually go out on those damp and foggy nights to set my headlights - you can easily see each beam individually .
Sarge

I actually did this test on my dad's '04 Impala. Parked behind it in the street, and the cut-off was right at the top of the trunk, so I think I'm in good shape.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Judging from the height of your truck , I'd say that's spot-on perfect . Wait for some fog and fine tune each beam to the sides . Just a note - the driver's side headlight doesn't need the usual extra angle towards the ditch side due to the cutoff like you normally would set up a set of halogens ...I focus the two beams to meet at about 2-300' away .
Sarge

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I've found one way to gauge how they are set is to watch vehicles in front of you at a stop light waiting , as you approach - keep a close eye on how your lights show up on the rear of their vehicle . If you get within 15' or so and are putting light well inside a low sedan's back window - they are a bit too high . Flat backed vans are great for showing your pattern as well . I usually go out on those damp and foggy nights to set my headlights - you can easily see each beam individually .
Sarge

chuckling - I can just imagine the explanation to some van driver who's wondering why you keep pulling up close to his van. Here's to hoping he has a sense of humor

 

[Weber Sarge]

It's all good - no closer than 15' is necessary anyway . I will say this much , even with the back end loaded up heavy I have yet to be flashed by another driver with the IPF lenses due to that sharp cutoff . Only other ones I've wanted to try are the Cibies , especially the ones with the built-in "city lamps" .
Sarge

 

[bikersmurf]

How far is your engine forward? Why do you feel it's a problem?

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

How far is your engine forward? Why do you feel it's a problem?

Hey @bikersmurf

You chimed in on this previously, in a separate thread.

There are a number of issues stemming from the engine location. The worst is that the front driveshaft angle is too steep, causing it to bind under flex. The engine fan is also a fraction of an inch from the radiator, which is worrisome.

The throw out bearing is failing so the clutch needs to be replaced anyway, and I'm going to swap the scattershield bellhousing for the Downey setup while I'm at it.

Then there's the aesthetic issues and the fact that my shift throw is a mile long, and there is a gaping hole in my transmission hump - this in turn fills my cab with fumes from the leaking ram's horn.

With the clutch needing work and the exhaust leaking and the engine bleeding oil it just seems like a good time to make it all right.

Details and pictures here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/at...-worms-v8-location-clutch-replacement.818767/

 

[bikersmurf]

That's right... We've all ready hashed it through. Just wanting to make sure you had examined the options

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

That's right... We've all ready hashed it through. Just wanting to make sure you had examined the options

The options have been analyzed to death! I have nothing else to do other than research until my bank account recovers enough to pull the trigger on the remainder of the parts I need.

The big question now is: Do I even BOTHER refurbishing the 283, or does it make infinitely more sense to shell out for a new engine. I'm going to wait to answer that question until I've checked the compression on the 283.

By my estimates, "refurbing" (not fully rebuilding) the 283 with new seals (minus head gaskets) and new pumps will cost about $6-700 depending on how far down the rabbit hole I go. A full rebuild, complete with machining, new pistons, etc. will cost $1500-$1750 if I do everything but the machining.

At the end of the day - I'll still have a 283. It's a great little engine, and enough power for my application of the 40, BUT its emission controls are 10 years out of date to the truck - which means it will NEVER legitimately pass inspection. I can hide it behind historic tags in MD as long as I live here, but if I move again someday, it may become an issue. The only reason it passed DE inspection is because I had an "inside man."

Upgrading to a 350 (probably a late 70's-mid 80's variety) would allow me the option of installing Chevy emissions controls, plus get me a power boost I don't really need...It also opens up options like GM Throttle Body Injection, etc. However, a GM Crate engine, junkyard emissions controls, early emissions computers, etc. definitely affects the simplicity of the truck, not to mention it'd probably end up being closer to $3000-$4000 when all is said and done.

Because of this, I'm leaning toward keeping the 283, and praying that emissions never comes back to bite me. If the compression is good, it will get new seals, new fuel pump (maybe a water/oil pump), and new exhaust manifolds, then get thrown back in the truck. There will be more on this down the road, once I have done a little more research into the health of the engine. I suspect the engine is in pretty good shape. I don't have smoke coming out the tailpipe, and it doesn't burn a drop of coolant. There's no oil in the coolant or vice-versa. There's no blue smoke, so I ASSUME it isn't burning oil. It loses a ton of oil out of bad seals though, so I can't really tell...

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

you'll spend more than the raw-material-cost-of-a-vortec-350 (96-99) to rebuild the 283. Keep your eyes open for a wrecked Tahoe or similar with the Vortec 350. Best part about rebuilding the vortec 350 (again, not LS) is everything is dirt cheap. New heads (not rebuilt) are $450. They never need pistons because they had oil coolers, and a re-ring kit with quality stuff is $150. Finally, the cam, you can turn up the torque a bit with a comp cams (the motor is already a roller lifter motor) for less than $300, and new lifters (if you want new) are $90. Get the block cleaned thoroughly (including water passages), hone for the new rings, use the used pistons and you have a brand-new motor that will last you forever.

In short, the exact build I did on mine - except I am temporarily using a carb. To upgrade to efi, the harness that uses the stock, GM computer is $450, and a new, in-line fuel pump is roughly $100. If you want to save money on the harness, when you pull the motor get the computer and harness for the motor along with the first 24" of the wiring that goes to the chassis. There are several companies and individuals who take your harness, take out the unneeded, then send you back the harness with 3 wires to hook up.

all-in is roughly $2000 - and best of all, your '40 stays running until the day you want to do the swap.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

and a note on emissions, most states grandfather anything 75 or older - meaning you have to have whatever emissions came with the truck... on a 75, that's generally a vapor recovery and charcoal canister. You move to my state, and you can do anything because we have the rolling 20 year exemption.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

you'll spend more than the raw-material-cost-of-a-vortec-350 (96-99) to rebuild the 283. Keep your eyes open for a wrecked Tahoe or similar with the Vortec 350. Best part about rebuilding the vortec 350 (again, not LS) is everything is dirt cheap. New heads (not rebuilt) are $450. They never need pistons because they had oil coolers, and a re-ring kit with quality stuff is $150. Finally, the cam, you can turn up the torque a bit with a comp cams (the motor is already a roller lifter motor) for less than $300, and new lifters (if you want new) are $90. Get the block cleaned thoroughly (including water passages), hone for the new rings, use the used pistons and you have a brand-new motor that will last you forever.

In short, the exact build I did on mine - except I am temporarily using a carb. To upgrade to efi, the harness that uses the stock, GM computer is $450, and a new, in-line fuel pump is roughly $100. If you want to save money on the harness, when you pull the motor get the computer and harness for the motor along with the first 24" of the wiring that goes to the chassis. There are several companies and individuals who take your harness, take out the unneeded, then send you back the harness with 3 wires to hook up.

all-in is roughly $2000 - and best of all, your '40 stays running until the day you want to do the swap.

I'm not planning on a full rebuild of the 283 (rings, pistons, bearings, cam, etc). The route I'm HOPING to take is a reseal and replacement of some of the accessories to keep it running, and stop all the leaks. That way I can invest more money in other projects, and limp the engine along while I knock out the body work, etc.

The real goal of this next project is not an "engine swap," but rather relocating the existing engine. However, if the 283 is truly on its way out, then it doesn't make sense to drop it back in. The requirement for a replacement is 100% compatibility with the Gen 1 GM engine mounts and the Downey Bellhousing adapter - since those are parts I already have. If the 283 is fairly solid, however, the plan is to do the minimum to keep it that way to lightly use over the next 5 years or so while the other repairs get done. Paint/Body is going to be time consuming! Down the road, once the other stuff is done, I'll probably search around for an engine to build and drop in in place of the 283.

I like the idea of a Vortec, but hate the idea of a computer-controlled engine. Do the Vortec engines utilize the same exact mounts as the Gen I 350's? How about the bell housing? Will the AA or Downey adapters mount to a Vortec? I'm not entirely sure when the mounting system/bellhousing changed in the evolution of the 350. I seem to recall an issue with the Vortec heads conflicting with Saginaw Power steering, too, but I could be making that up. I fully agree Vortecs are an awesome engine, and well suited to a 40, just not as keen to drop one in if it's not going to be readily interchangeable when the time comes. It does sound like they can be had for fairly cheap.

and a note on emissions, most states grandfather anything 75 or older - meaning you have to have whatever emissions came with the truck... on a 75, that's generally a vapor recovery and charcoal canister. You move to my state, and you can do anything because we have the rolling 20 year exemption.

In Delaware, the "no emissions" cutoff is 1968, and it doesn't roll. Any vehicle newer than 1968 must pass the emissions standards for the year in which it was produced. Sometimes they are even a stickler for "originality" of the components. I believe 1975 was the first year for Catalyitic converters too, so I'd have to source a GM EVAP system, PCV valve, and Cat, most likely. They're complete Nazis at the Delaware DMV. There's a very real possibility that they wouldn't let me register the truck in DE because it didn't have the original engine, even if it ran as clean as a Prius. Needless to say, I just bought a house in MD, so this will HOPEFULLY not be an issue for at least 5-7 years, if I have kids, and the MD school systems don't improve.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm not planning on a full rebuild of the 283 (rings, pistons, bearings, cam, etc). The route I'm HOPING to take is a reseal and replacement of some of the accessories to keep it running, and stop all the leaks. That way I can invest more money in other projects, and limp the engine along while I knock out the body work, etc.

The real goal of this next project is not an "engine swap," but rather relocating the existing engine. However, if the 283 is truly on its way out, then it doesn't make sense to drop it back in. The requirement for a replacement is 100% compatibility with the Gen 1 GM engine mounts and the Downey Bellhousing adapter - since those are parts I already have. If the 283 is fairly solid, however, the plan is to do the minimum to keep it that way to lightly use over the next 5 years or so while the other repairs get done. Paint/Body is going to be time consuming! Down the road, once the other stuff is done, I'll probably search around for an engine to build and drop in in place of the 283.

I like the idea of a Vortec, but hate the idea of a computer-controlled engine. Do the Vortec engines utilize the same exact mounts as the Gen I 350's? How about the bell housing? Will the AA or Downey adapters mount to a Vortec? I'm not entirely sure when the mounting system/bellhousing changed in the evolution of the 350. I seem to recall an issue with the Vortec heads conflicting with Saginaw Power steering, too, but I could be making that up. I fully agree Vortecs are an awesome engine, and well suited to a 40, just not as keen to drop one in if it's not going to be readily interchangeable when the time comes. It does sound like they can be had for fairly cheap.



In Delaware, the "no emissions" cutoff is 1968, and it doesn't roll. Any vehicle newer than 1968 must pass the emissions standards for the year in which it was produced. Sometimes they are even a stickler for "originality" of the components. I believe 1975 was the first year for Catalyitic converters too, so I'd have to source a GM EVAP system, PCV valve, and Cat, most likely. They're complete Nazis at the Delaware DMV. There's a very real possibility that they wouldn't let me register the truck in DE because it didn't have the original engine, even if it ran as clean as a Prius. Needless to say, I just bought a house in MD, so this will HOPEFULLY not be an issue for at least 5-7 years, if I have kids, and the MD school systems don't improve.

I completely get the save money aspect, unfortunately, (and fortunately) externally, the gen 1 sbc is the same from 1955 to 2002. Unfortunately because everyone swaps to 350s, it costs far less to rebuild a 350 than a 283 - I know of 2 people who did 283s, and the cost to even re-ring was mindblowing. Fortunately, all your brackets and such will bolt straight on. Your intake manifold is different from the Vortec, but when the heads first came out, many, many people simply redrilled their existing manifolds to the Vortec spec. The only other issue you'd find, is that some blocks do not have the hole drilled for the mechanical fuel pump. There are lots of advantages to the later 350, most notably (beside the heads) is the roller cam and the one-piece rear main seal. No leaks, no flat cams, 200,000 mile reliability (and a lot more if you take care of it).

Don't be afraid of efi, be afraid of aftermarket efi systems. the GM system is so well sorted, that, once you make the switch, you'll never be sorry... in many ways, it's easier to set up because you're not deviating from GM validated on their production trucks.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

If you go back on my build thread (on extreme)... here's the behind-the-scenes of that motor. I had a non-roller 350 that I got for free years ago. I wanted a roller cam, so I bought a vortec 350 with a spun bearing. I cleaned, honed, then built that spun-bearing block. I put the rotating assembly from the other 350 in this spun-bearing 350 block. I have $200 in the rebuild kit (including a mis-order - I bought the wrong rings), the heads I already had on another car, so I bought aluminum heads for that car (corvette) for $650, then put the vortec heads on this motor. I already had an intake. I also got the entire serpentine set up from the spun bearing block. I sold the used, vortec heads for $25 more than I paid for the block. I paid $350 for the cam and lifters.

All in, less than $1000 - and I have better heads on the Corvette.

and your current exhaust manifolds will bolt up, though I built headers because I wanted the (stainless) exhaust on the outside of the frame rails.