Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

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handcannon said:
Do you have room on the outboard side of the alt? I don't remember reading if you know how to weld, or if you have a friend that welds. But if so, add some length to that arm. Use some flat metal bar and add some length, maybe 2". Add to the mounting end, leaving the current bolt hole, and drill a new bolt hole. that way in the future if you need to you can go back to the original position. This will allow you to keep your current belt.

Don
Click to expand...

Found in the box of misc crap from the PO:

IMG_2946[1].webp


I think these "hockey stick" adjusters were originally supposed to mount off the water pump, not the intake manifold like mine does. This one appears to be a chromed "stock" version without the weird dog-leg in it to align it properly. Far more rigid too. Hopefully, I can get this installed and it works!

Here's a shot of the current one, for comparison.

New Air Cleaner.webp
 
Yeah, your current arm is definitely an odd one. I don't think I've ever seen one like that. I'm used to them mounting off of the water pump.

Don
 
Don - it is definitely a custom job. You can see the bracket welded on the back. That was originally for the return springs attached to the throttle on the carb. It may be that the arm was moved up to the manifold to allow for the throttle springs. This, in turn, required the bend to properly mount the alternator and align the pulley. If you look at the "adjustment slot" on the arm, you can tell it was welded onto the bent piece.

Since I found a proper bracket, I'm going to see if the water pump mount option will work.
 
More progress, albeit not as much as I'd like. My engineer friend stopped by today and lent me his tools and soldering know-how. I started out by building the fusible link for the new alternator BAT cable:

Fusible Link connector.webp


Unfortunately, the other side of that connector would not cooperate with any female spade connector I had (I tried several). So, in the end, I ditched the terminal cover, and just went with spade terminals. I heat-shrinked them together with a piece of zip-tie "Splinting" the connection to reduce flex at the connection point. This is what I ended up with:

Fusible Link.webp


This will most likely be taped, as well, for further protection from the elements.

While I was over there, I replaced my own hack-job - a "twist-lock" wire connection to my passenger side turn signal. The bullet connector had corroded and cracked, so that had been a "field repair" last year. While I was at it, I replaced the other turn signal wire's bullet connector with a new one as well, figuring it couldn't be too far behind.

The new connectors, which will be heat-shrinked once I confirm everything is working:

New Bullet Connectors PS Fender 2.webp


I also added Coolerman's other connector back to the main harness, to replace the broken one, to finish installing the main harness fusible link. All said and done, the battery is starting to look much more presentable.

New Fusible Links.webp


Over on the alternator side, I added a ring terminal to the 8 gauge BAT wire, a new boot, and jumped the voltage sensing cable straight to the alternator BAT terminal. Someone will call me out on this, because jumping the sense wire straight to the battery terminal will not account for voltage drop across the harness, thereby "under-charging." Since I'm eliminating the main harness from the circuit, however, all I'd really be doing is measuring the voltage drop across the beefy 8 gauge wire to the battery anyway, which would probably be negligible. I also made a new ground wire.

Altrnator Wires.webp
 
New ground wire off the starter as well, albeit probably undersized (12 gauge). I will most likely need to upgrade, but it's a secondary ground, so it may not be necessary:

Starter Ground.webp


I also fixed another "twist-lock" home wiring nut and "snap splice" connection connecting what I believe is the temperature sending unit back into the main harness. I used a bullet connector in place of the snap-splice connector, and a butt connector down where the wire nut was. This connection will also be heat-shrinked once I confirm function. I also shortened up the wire run a lot. Previously, this had been run across the firewall, down the driver's side fender, and across to the connection on the back of the engine. I eliminated about 5 feet of wire just running it straight down. There will most likely be less rist of melting the wire too, than running it over the head.

New Temperature Sender Wire.webp


The only thing I have left, in terms of alternator wiring, is figuring out where to splice in or connect the "Field" wire at the fuse box. I disconnected the box expecting to find a bunch of spade terminals on the back. Unfortunately, what I found is going to be tougher to work with:

Back of Fuse Box.webp


I'm not sure what to do with this huge green plug. I have an available "blade" underneath it, but I'm not sure how to properly wire a "non-toyota" connector in. A normal female connected doesn't properly clip into the big green Toyota fuse harness, so there's no good way to get it to plug in, and stay plugged in. Furthermore, the available blade is up by the cigarette lighter/wiper fuse, which leads to me believe it is probably an "accessory" fuse, switched on when the key is set to accessory, but the truck is not running. I believe I need an "on" switched voltage source for the field wire. At a bit of a loss here...any thoughts?

Back of Fuse Box 2.webp


I suppose I could "splice" into the big black/yellow wire that is the main keyed ignition wire. However, I'm hoping for a cleaner option.

I'm also still trying to figure out how best to fix this mess of ground wires:

Passenger Side Grounds.webp


Open to suggestions...
 
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I think I finally got the plastic terminal covers to cooperate last night. I say "think" because the female terminal still doesn't seat all the way at the front of the housing (maybe 1mm back).

Either way it is far enough forward for the blade to interface, and the clip on the housing itself should hold them together. I'll probably back up the female side with electrical tape to further ensure the wire doesn't back itself out of the housing.

Note: this is the blue fusible link terminal covers - Coolerman's (yellow) worked great.

I found it could force a terminal all the way forward with a screwdriver, but that doesn't work when there is a wire attached.

image.webp
 
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@Stumpalama - good to know, thanks. In this particular case, both the terminals and the housings are not original. The issue is that I bought a housing to fit the standard 0.250 female spade, but for some reason it requires a TON of effort to get it to "bottom out." I bought two different style terminals and it is the same in both cases.

In the event I'm fixing some of the existing Toyota harness issues, I'll absolutely pick up the clip-in connectors.
 
Stumpalama said:
Gotcha. Your getting there. Just to pile on some more, weatherpak connectors are nice too. ;)
Click to expand...

Woh, those things are intense looking...
 
The other issue I've run into are the grounding locations. My truck had ONE, from the battery to the tub. My plan is to keep that one, but also run a ground to the frame, and from the frame back up to the engine block.

On a small block chevy, the grounds were often run to the exhaust manifold bolts. You can see the remnant of one here:


06 PS Prior Engine Ground.webp


Unfortunately, that bolt is not going to budge. I've cleaned it, hit it with loads of penetrant, and tried everything but the impact wrench (won't reach) or a torch to break it loose. I think that ship has sailed. I don't want to snap the bolt until the engine is out (hopefully next year) and I don't have to worry about driving it.

I think the new plan will be to run the ground either to another bolt on the block, if I can find one, or one of these on the water pump/intake manifold:

Potential Grounding Bolts.webp


Just have to make sure to route it in such a way it doesn't get sucked into the fan...I'm going to look for other alternatives, as well.

The final hurdle is the alternator. The pulley on the new alternator is a HAIR smaller, which means I have to pull it further away from the motor to tighten the belt. Unfortunately, I have run out of adjustment on this homegrown alternator setup the truck is currently running:

Belt Too Loose.webp

The water pump mounting solution I showed a few posts ago is the "stock" setup for these engines. Unfortunately, the one in the PO's box of stuff was pretty badly bent/warped. I tried to use it and ran into all sorts of alignment issues, both at the water pump and the alternator. I ordered a replacement ($9) which should be here soon...If I can't get that to line up, it looks like it's back to "customizing."

The bottom bracket appear stock. It is also trashed:

Broken Alternator Mount.webp


Unfortunately, I'm afraid to touch any of these manifold bolts until I have the truck in at least a semi-permanent "home" so it doesn't matter if I break them. So, for the time being, the mount stays. Hopefully the longer, proper mounting arm will give me the extra adjustment I need. If not, I'll go shopping for another belt.

The issue is that the belt can't be MUCH shorter, because the alternator will bottom out on the valve cover. :bang:
 
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have you tried some heat on the bolt? get it real hot and let the cold weather cool it quickly? Do this a couple times and hit it with penetrant after that, then try it.
I like to use an impact or even hitting a combo wrench with a hammer. The hammer trick worked on my old F350 diesel that had the bolts for every belt adjuster torqued waaay to tight and rusted.
 
Stumpalama said:
have you tried some heat on the bolt? get it real hot and let the cold weather cool it quickly? Do this a couple times and hit it with penetrant after that, then try it.
I like to use an impact or even hitting a combo wrench with a hammer. The hammer trick worked on my old F350 diesel that had the bolts for every belt adjuster torqued waaay to tight and rusted.
Click to expand...

I haven't. I've tried penetrating oil, socket wrench, and combo wrench/hammer. I haven't gone to the impact wrench (no room) or tried torching it yet. I'm hesitant to hit it with anything too hard, for the reasons mentioned above. I don't have the space in its current garage to pull the engine if one of the bolts breaks and I need those headers to stay connected until I get it into a more permanent garage situation.

I'm in the PROCESS of buying a house - but it's a foreclosure and it is taking an eternity. Really looking forward to having my own garage to work on this thing in though!
 
CreeperSleeper said:
I would just drive it until the engine is nice and warm, then try the wrench/hammer combo.... I can understand you wanting to wait, though!
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Yeah, if all goes according to plan, I'll have a 2-car garage come spring. Getting both of the bays was a non-negotiable part of the contract between me and :princess:. I gave up the rest of the house, except the kitchen (she doesn't cook) to get the garage. ;)

Those exhaust manifolds, bolts and all, are most likely trash. I know the driver's side is leaking badly. I plan to compression check the engine once the alternator is sorted out, and determine whether the old 283 is worth saving. If it is, it will get a complete reseal, new fuel pump, new exhaust, and probably a new carb, and get put back into service. If the compression is bad, I'll have to adjust where I'm throwing some of that money, and invest in a crate 350, most likely. Either way - the manifolds will have to do until I get a permanent garage solution!

Really, this is all to wire a ground wire to somewhere on the block. I am certain there is another bolt that will serve the purpose just as well. I'll also have one running from the starter to the frame, and alternator to tub, so there should be plenty of engine grounds.
 
IIWM i'd bend up a new bracket off the engine ... or... cut the existing bracket and extend it a bit further out

i guess the chrome one didnt work?
 
JohnnyC said:
IIWM i'd bend up a new bracket off the engine ... or... cut the existing bracket and extend it a bit further out

i guess the chrome one didnt work?
Click to expand...

The chrome one was pretty badly warped, both at the mounting point at the water pump, and along the adjustment slider portion. While that arm setup is "stock" for the 283, I couldn't get it to align properly. I've ordered a replacement to see if I can get it to work without the "warpage." If it doesn't, I'll be fabricating one. I hesitate to elongate the existing one, because the steel is too light for the application. There's a good deal of flex, which is not something you want in a belt tensioner. Extending it would probably make it worse.
 
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