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- #501
Thanks! I appreciate you jumping in and averting disaster before I bolted the hubs on tonight...
Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota
- Thread starter RWBeringer4x4
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Thanks! I appreciate you jumping in and averting disaster before I bolted the hubs on tonight...
- Thread starter
- #502
@Stumpalama - There, I fixed it...
Next, I moved forward with the rest of assembly:
Installed the wheel hub on the spindle, then added the outer hub bearing:
followed by the thrust washer (reversed, to use the smooth side against the bearing):
followed by the inner spindle nut:
Which was then torqued to 43 ft. lbs. then spun 3 times forward, 3 times backward, loosened, retorqued, spun again, then loosened and torqued to 10 ft. lbs.
Next, I moved forward with the rest of assembly:
Installed the wheel hub on the spindle, then added the outer hub bearing:
followed by the thrust washer (reversed, to use the smooth side against the bearing):
followed by the inner spindle nut:
Which was then torqued to 43 ft. lbs. then spun 3 times forward, 3 times backward, loosened, retorqued, spun again, then loosened and torqued to 10 ft. lbs.
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- #503
As you can tell - I'm rapidly running out of after-work daylight hours, and my iPhone4 camera is on its last legs, and barely up to the challenge. That said, I'm trying to document this as completely as I can!
I checked the preload at this point - the manual says it should be between 6 and 12 lbs on a fish scale (roughly). Mine was spot on, on both sides (8-10lbs):
Next I installed the star washer:
Locked the inner nut down by bending a tab
Then installed the outer nut. This was torqued to about 70 ft. lbs. then locked in place by bending another tab on the star washer.
Next came the paper hub body seal and hub body itself, complete with cone washers, lock washers, and nuts, torqued to ~23 ft. lbs:
Followed by the C-clip, which I thought would be difficult based on everyones' complains here on MUD, but the C-clip pliers, it dropped right in without issue. NOTE: the axles @Stumpalama provided were MarTak'd, which I believe makes this C-clip unnecessary, but I decided to run it anyway.
I checked the preload at this point - the manual says it should be between 6 and 12 lbs on a fish scale (roughly). Mine was spot on, on both sides (8-10lbs):
Next I installed the star washer:
Locked the inner nut down by bending a tab
Then installed the outer nut. This was torqued to about 70 ft. lbs. then locked in place by bending another tab on the star washer.
Next came the paper hub body seal and hub body itself, complete with cone washers, lock washers, and nuts, torqued to ~23 ft. lbs:
Followed by the C-clip, which I thought would be difficult based on everyones' complains here on MUD, but the C-clip pliers, it dropped right in without issue. NOTE: the axles @Stumpalama provided were MarTak'd, which I believe makes this C-clip unnecessary, but I decided to run it anyway.
- Thread starter
- #504
Last but not least, I installed the hub dial and clutch gear (and seal). This really only drops in one way. Tightened down the cover bolts by feel, but I think the manual calls for about 7ft. lbs.
Tested both ends to confirm that they were, indeed, engaging the axle, then spun the front differential, and watched both rotors spin - seems like everything is installed, and in place!
Came back today, and my rotors are already completely flash-rusted.
It is truly a battle that never ends. Can't wait to get the calipers on, and burn the rust off.
Today I really didn't make much progress - this is primarily because I realized that my first time through hub reassembly, I forgot to bend the tabs on the passenger side star washer, and to un-torque the inner hub nut on the driver's side. Long story short, I got to do this all over again...
I did, however, manage to get the carrier bearings pulled, labeled, and stowed in preparation for the installation of my Aussie locker.
Sorry again, for the useless photography. iPhone 6 should be inbound!
Tested both ends to confirm that they were, indeed, engaging the axle, then spun the front differential, and watched both rotors spin - seems like everything is installed, and in place!
Came back today, and my rotors are already completely flash-rusted.
It is truly a battle that never ends. Can't wait to get the calipers on, and burn the rust off.Today I really didn't make much progress - this is primarily because I realized that my first time through hub reassembly, I forgot to bend the tabs on the passenger side star washer, and to un-torque the inner hub nut on the driver's side. Long story short, I got to do this all over again...
I did, however, manage to get the carrier bearings pulled, labeled, and stowed in preparation for the installation of my Aussie locker.
Sorry again, for the useless photography. iPhone 6 should be inbound!
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Nice work!
I forgot those were my martacked axles. The martack allows you to eliminate the birfield c-clip that holds the inner axle to the birf. So, if you happen to break a birf, you just pop the new one on without having to fight with that pesky inner clip.
You still run the outer clip that keeps the axle from going too far into the birf (clipped on the inner axle shaft).
You also keep the outer birf hub clip (the one in your picture) as well.
Keep up the good progress.
I forgot those were my martacked axles. The martack allows you to eliminate the birfield c-clip that holds the inner axle to the birf. So, if you happen to break a birf, you just pop the new one on without having to fight with that pesky inner clip.
You still run the outer clip that keeps the axle from going too far into the birf (clipped on the inner axle shaft).
You also keep the outer birf hub clip (the one in your picture) as well.
Keep up the good progress.
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- #506
Hmm - I didn't realize there were actually 2 clips on the inside of the birf - it all makes a lot more sense now. Either way, I installed the birfields assembled. This truck won't be breaking any birfs anytime soon!
My only nagging concern is that while I was installing the passenger side axle (which took some force) there was a metalic "pop." I couldn't place where it came from, but I pulled the short-side axle and checked to ensure it was still attached/assembled - it seems like they were, so I put it back in. I'm hoping I didn't crack something in the differential. At this point, only time will tell! No audible grinding or otherwise "bad" noises when I spin it by hand, at least. It was probably nothing, but it is keeping me up at night!
I doubt you damaged anything in the diff. Everything, as you know, is pretty beefy in the axle.
Cruiser nerd information: There are 3 clips on the front inner axle assembly. One on the inner axle between the birfs and diff, which keeps the axle shaft from driving too far into the birfs. One inside the birfs, which keep the axle shaft from pulling out of the birfs ( martack eliminates the requirement for this clip). And one clip on the nose of the birf that keeps the birf and axle shaft located within the knuckle/hub assembly.
Cruiser nerd information: There are 3 clips on the front inner axle assembly. One on the inner axle between the birfs and diff, which keeps the axle shaft from driving too far into the birfs. One inside the birfs, which keep the axle shaft from pulling out of the birfs ( martack eliminates the requirement for this clip). And one clip on the nose of the birf that keeps the birf and axle shaft located within the knuckle/hub assembly.
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- #510
BFH was involved...that said, it seems like everything is functioning normally so I'm not panicking yet!
Hmmm, was the sticking point in the diff or at the knuckle? Did you spin the diff from the pinion after installing the axle shaft? It really should not take that kind of force, unless it was tapping with the BFH, not whacking. Did you try to remove the axle shaft after the initial install?
Hmmm, was the sticking point in the diff or at the knuckle? Did you spin the diff from the pinion after installing the axle shaft? It really should not take that kind of force, unless it was tapping with the BFH, not whacking. Did you try to remove the axle shaft after the initial install?
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- #513
Geeze, what the heck is going on with MUD lately!
Installing the axles was a learning experience. I'd heard that sometimes axle installs require "persuasion," and, having never done it before, when things got stuck, I started "persuading." I wouldn't say I was putting a ton of force behind it because wailing on anything with a sledge makes me nervous (I started with a plastic deadblow). Anyway, it was during this "persuasion" that I heard the "pop." When they still wouldn't completely slide in, I started thinking that the knuckle ball had compressed when I tightened the trunnion bearings down, and I hadn't ground enough out to accommodate, so I loosened the steering arm and trunnion bearing cap to relieve any tension. Once loosened, I reinstalled, still had issues, until I spun the diff a little and they literally fell in...Live and learn...When the axle was pulled to loosen the trunnions, everything seemed good - no spline damage, chips, cracks, etc. So either this was just an aberrant noise from somewhere else in the truck, or the noise came from my diff, and I will find out soon enough...Boy do I wish the front axles had diff covers like the backs do...
Installing the axles was a learning experience. I'd heard that sometimes axle installs require "persuasion," and, having never done it before, when things got stuck, I started "persuading." I wouldn't say I was putting a ton of force behind it because wailing on anything with a sledge makes me nervous (I started with a plastic deadblow). Anyway, it was during this "persuasion" that I heard the "pop." When they still wouldn't completely slide in, I started thinking that the knuckle ball had compressed when I tightened the trunnion bearings down, and I hadn't ground enough out to accommodate, so I loosened the steering arm and trunnion bearing cap to relieve any tension. Once loosened, I reinstalled, still had issues, until I spun the diff a little and they literally fell in...Live and learn...When the axle was pulled to loosen the trunnions, everything seemed good - no spline damage, chips, cracks, etc. So either this was just an aberrant noise from somewhere else in the truck, or the noise came from my diff, and I will find out soon enough...Boy do I wish the front axles had diff covers like the backs do...
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Sounds like you have it well in hand. It sounds to me like all is well. That running gear is looking good too.
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- #515
Thanks! It's coming along, slowly but surely. The elements have been conspiring against me to get this thing done! I probably have, realistically, 3-4 hours of work left, but I only get 45min of daylight after work each night, and it seems to rain every weekend...Again, who's brilliant idea was it to buy a project car without a garage?
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- #516
Christmas has come early for the Clustertruck. I'm probably a solid year from actually tackling this, but just in case the sketchy throw-out bearing currently in my rig decides to fail, I figure I should probably be prepared. Hence, I got in touch with the "dream team" form California - Jim Sickles @Downey, Georg (@orangefj45), and Mark (@65swb45). Mark and Jim put together a care package including most of the key hardware to "convert my conversion," and this time do it right - with probably one of the last Downey conversion bellhousings in Jim's possession. Georg came through with the elusive aluminum 4-speed cover off an early FJ60, which should bolt right up to my FJ40 4-speed, and move the shift tower back ~3-4 more inches. Thanks, guys! Great doing business with all of you.
Theoretically, if I move the V8 back about 3-4 inches (where it belongs), and swap top covers on the transmission, that SHOULD put my shifter through the transmission tunnel in the ALMOST stock location. Ideally, I'd like to avoid the "dog leg" situations that many conversions have done to clear the heater inside the cab. Time will tell - and this project is still a long way off. I still have some more parts to collect, but these are a solid start:
Clutch/Pressure plate:
Shift fork, bearing retainer, T/O bearing hub, engine and trans mounts
Early (80-83/4) FJ60 4-speed shift tower:
FJ60 shifter and trans seals:
And the Downey Conversion Bellhousing itself!
Theoretically, if I move the V8 back about 3-4 inches (where it belongs), and swap top covers on the transmission, that SHOULD put my shifter through the transmission tunnel in the ALMOST stock location. Ideally, I'd like to avoid the "dog leg" situations that many conversions have done to clear the heater inside the cab. Time will tell - and this project is still a long way off. I still have some more parts to collect, but these are a solid start:
Clutch/Pressure plate:
Shift fork, bearing retainer, T/O bearing hub, engine and trans mounts
Early (80-83/4) FJ60 4-speed shift tower:
FJ60 shifter and trans seals:
And the Downey Conversion Bellhousing itself!
- Thread starter
- #517
The Aussie Locker went in yesterday. All said, this was a pretty easy job, with only one potentially serious snag. First, the pictures:
Note: I had already pulled the spider/side gears from the case a couple days ago.
1. Installed the thrust washers (re-used from my stock side gears) onto the locker side gears, then installed the side gears into the case:
2. Installed the spacers, using grease as "glue" to hold them in place. Next, I installed the center pin. The manual calls for a clearance spec of 0.006 - 0.020 inches. With my feeler guage, it was a TIGHT 0.006. This will come into play later...
3. Pulled everything but the long-side (ring side) side gear. Then, installed the axle:
4. Once Installed, I installed the C-clip, then pulled the axle out slightly to hold everything in place:
Note: I had already pulled the spider/side gears from the case a couple days ago.
1. Installed the thrust washers (re-used from my stock side gears) onto the locker side gears, then installed the side gears into the case:
2. Installed the spacers, using grease as "glue" to hold them in place. Next, I installed the center pin. The manual calls for a clearance spec of 0.006 - 0.020 inches. With my feeler guage, it was a TIGHT 0.006. This will come into play later...
3. Pulled everything but the long-side (ring side) side gear. Then, installed the axle:
4. Once Installed, I installed the C-clip, then pulled the axle out slightly to hold everything in place:
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- #518
Next came assembly of the inner (cam) gears. Again, grease is used to "glue" everything together:
5. First, I installed the pins - there is a small "step" on one side that the springs will seat on later:
6. The spacers go in the center of the cam gears. Note that there is a recess for the C-clip on one side. Make sure that this points toward the C-clip on the axle when installed. This will cover the C-clip, and prevent it from coming loose.
A shot of the spacers and pins installed, for orientation:
7. With the cam gears assembled, they get installed into the case. you push the sing gear side up into the side gear to "stick" it in place, then, push the spacer in tight against the C-clip.
This is where it got tricky, for me. In order to properly install the short-side C-clip, you can't push the short-side cam gear in place just yet. Instead, you push the center spacer from the short-side came gear over into the long-side cam gear, to hold the gear in place and centered while you install the C-clip. This is way harder than it sounds, as everything was sliding in the grease (and I didn't use a heavy enough wire). Aussie's instructions call for a bent piece of heavy guage wire (ie: a clothes hanger) to push the other spacer in the cam gear over and through. Ultimately, this is a job easier done with 3 hands, I ended up wedging the cam gear in place with a screwdriver while I oriented/pushed the spacer over:
8. Once that whole assembly is static, no longer sliding around, and you've had your victory beer, move on, and install the short axle, followed by the short axle's C-clip through the gap that you've created. I accomplished this with some thin needle nose pliers and some grease to glue it in place:
I should note also that Aussie Lockers recommends installing the C-clips with the opening facing down, to allow gravity to help hold everything in place, and line everything up.
5. First, I installed the pins - there is a small "step" on one side that the springs will seat on later:
6. The spacers go in the center of the cam gears. Note that there is a recess for the C-clip on one side. Make sure that this points toward the C-clip on the axle when installed. This will cover the C-clip, and prevent it from coming loose.
A shot of the spacers and pins installed, for orientation:
7. With the cam gears assembled, they get installed into the case. you push the sing gear side up into the side gear to "stick" it in place, then, push the spacer in tight against the C-clip.
This is where it got tricky, for me. In order to properly install the short-side C-clip, you can't push the short-side cam gear in place just yet. Instead, you push the center spacer from the short-side came gear over into the long-side cam gear, to hold the gear in place and centered while you install the C-clip. This is way harder than it sounds, as everything was sliding in the grease (and I didn't use a heavy enough wire). Aussie's instructions call for a bent piece of heavy guage wire (ie: a clothes hanger) to push the other spacer in the cam gear over and through. Ultimately, this is a job easier done with 3 hands, I ended up wedging the cam gear in place with a screwdriver while I oriented/pushed the spacer over:
8. Once that whole assembly is static, no longer sliding around, and you've had your victory beer, move on, and install the short axle, followed by the short axle's C-clip through the gap that you've created. I accomplished this with some thin needle nose pliers and some grease to glue it in place:
I should note also that Aussie Lockers recommends installing the C-clips with the opening facing down, to allow gravity to help hold everything in place, and line everything up.
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- Thread starter
- #519
9. Once the C-clip is installed, the short-side cam gear assembly can be pushed over to the correct side, and the spacer slid over the C-clip. This was also sort of a pain, as the spacer had glued itself to the long-side spacer. A small flat head through the center-pin hole was used to separate them, and push the spacer over a little. Then, the goofy wire hook tool, until the space was big enough to get a finger in there.
10. Next, the two sides were aligned by twisting the axles until they were positioned properly. All the pins sitting in their greased channels were slid across the gap, into the recessed hole on the other cam gear. The little hook tool help to align the pin to the hole, while you push it across with a small flat-head:
11. Once all the pins have been pushed across, you install the springs. These go over the step on the back of the pin, then get compressed into the slot you left when you move the pin over. This wasn't TOO tricky, but don't let the spring slip while you're compressing it into the slot (flat head screwdriver). They get some SERIOUS distance if they go flying. I had the joy of spending about 20 minutes searching the lawn for an errant spring...
Repeat for the other 3 pins.
12. Once Everything is in place, measure the gap between the two cam gears using a set of calipers. The manual calls for a gap of 0.145 and 0.172 for proper function. Mine came in right in the middle:
10. Next, the two sides were aligned by twisting the axles until they were positioned properly. All the pins sitting in their greased channels were slid across the gap, into the recessed hole on the other cam gear. The little hook tool help to align the pin to the hole, while you push it across with a small flat-head:
11. Once all the pins have been pushed across, you install the springs. These go over the step on the back of the pin, then get compressed into the slot you left when you move the pin over. This wasn't TOO tricky, but don't let the spring slip while you're compressing it into the slot (flat head screwdriver). They get some SERIOUS distance if they go flying. I had the joy of spending about 20 minutes searching the lawn for an errant spring...
Repeat for the other 3 pins.
12. Once Everything is in place, measure the gap between the two cam gears using a set of calipers. The manual calls for a gap of 0.145 and 0.172 for proper function. Mine came in right in the middle:
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- #520
13. Last but not least, you reinstall your stock center pin, and bolt it into place:
This last step is where I hit my only MAJOR hickup. Remeber, previously, we had verified a 0.006in gap on either side of the center pin? Well, when I went to actually push the pin through in the final step, it wouldn't fit...
My guess is, with all the grease used in assembly, and the addition of the c-clips, the spacers were pushed out just a HAIR further than they had been when I measured them initially. Because I had been on the absolute low side of the suggested gap to begin with, now the pin didn't have clearance.
I got around this by pushing the axles in and out a few times on each side, making sure to pull them back into position forcefully to compress any grease, etc. Then, I'd do some more prying on the spacers with the screw driver (and my fingers) to compress them as much as possible as well.
After about 3 rounds of this, the pin finally slid through, albeit tightly. I had to tap it lightly with the back of a set of vice grips I had laying around to slide it the last 1/2 inch.
So my question (posed in another thread as well) is: It doesn't seem like I have the 0.006in clearance anymore. Should I really disassemble the entire thing and install some slightly thinner thrust washers?
My gut says no - as really those spacers/center pin are there to prevent the axles from riding in far enough to drop a C-clip...with NO gap, it's safe to say the C-clips won't be going anywhere. I'm thinking that, as long as the pin clears and installs (which it did) I should be able to run it. Thoughts from the peanut gallery?
This last step is where I hit my only MAJOR hickup. Remeber, previously, we had verified a 0.006in gap on either side of the center pin? Well, when I went to actually push the pin through in the final step, it wouldn't fit...
My guess is, with all the grease used in assembly, and the addition of the c-clips, the spacers were pushed out just a HAIR further than they had been when I measured them initially. Because I had been on the absolute low side of the suggested gap to begin with, now the pin didn't have clearance.
I got around this by pushing the axles in and out a few times on each side, making sure to pull them back into position forcefully to compress any grease, etc. Then, I'd do some more prying on the spacers with the screw driver (and my fingers) to compress them as much as possible as well.
After about 3 rounds of this, the pin finally slid through, albeit tightly. I had to tap it lightly with the back of a set of vice grips I had laying around to slide it the last 1/2 inch.
So my question (posed in another thread as well) is: It doesn't seem like I have the 0.006in clearance anymore. Should I really disassemble the entire thing and install some slightly thinner thrust washers?
My gut says no - as really those spacers/center pin are there to prevent the axles from riding in far enough to drop a C-clip...with NO gap, it's safe to say the C-clips won't be going anywhere. I'm thinking that, as long as the pin clears and installs (which it did) I should be able to run it. Thoughts from the peanut gallery?