The Brown Truck - My 1982 Toyota Pickup

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Negative :)

Connect the fusible link at the battery and let it be the first several inches of wire feeding power to the fuse block. Because you ran an 8 AWG wire to the fuse block I would recommend a 12 AWG fusible link. It would also be fine to install a high capacity inline fuse instead, such as the one linked below. What you are shooting for is circuit protection as close to the battery as you can get it.

Amazon product ASIN B07H19SYTK
Oh that does make sense, I guess a fusible link/fuse in between the alternator and battery doesn’t make much sense if you think about it.
 
Oh that does make sense, I guess a fusible link/fuse in between the alternator and battery doesn’t make much sense if you think about it.

There is certainly is no harm having a fusible link there. Especially if, like on some cars, the batt is on one side of the engine bay and alternator on the other (ie a long wire with more opportunity for chafing and grounding). I do not use a fusible link on that circuit since my alternator is only a few inches from the batt. The main issue is you would need to protect that wire on both ends since juice can run either from the batt or the alternator if the wire ever finds a ground (the battery should have priority since it can deliver hundreds of amps compared to the alternator). In short (now ain’t that funny) just be absolutely certain the charge wire is as secure from ground as possible.
 
Last edited:
There is certainly is no harm having a fusible link there. Especially if, like on some cars, the batt is on one side of the engine bay and alternator on the other (ie a long wire with more opportunity for chafing and grounding). I do not use a fusible link on that circuit since my alternator is only a few inches from the batt. The main issue is you would need to protect that wire on both ends since juice can run either from the batt or the alternator if the wire ever finds a ground (the battery should have priority since it can deliver hundreds of amps compared to the alternator). In short (now ain’t that funny) just be absolutely certain the charge wire is as secure from ground as possible.
We did a lot to protect the charge wire. It has wire loom on it that is wrapped in electrical tape the entire way. And tape on both ends up to the base of the connector so it can’t short on anything! I don’t want any more shorts!!
 
Well...after tonight I have come to the firm conclusion this truck is cursed. I was driving right outside of Clemson, about 10min away, and I noticed the truck start to feel a little funny steering. I got to where I was going 2min later and got out and to my horror my wheels were no where close to vertical. I initially thought my trunion bearings had died. But it turns out my front wheels somehow completely hacked themselves. They are absolutely destroyed. All the lugs were still tight, except the one missing, but the wheels were horribly loose.
A2905417-9604-4CA5-A490-1D72FA9D42A1.webp
CAE46620-D1DC-4A9E-B0D4-EDE8272EADAD.webp
6E0A1350-DBF0-46F5-95E7-767B55865027.webp
1AE0055F-D170-4A02-94EE-006C82D49D1C.webp
7D198DDB-C242-4C43-B131-BF33D7E997A6.webp
 
Judging from what I am seeing, you are using the incorrect lug nuts. Looks like your washers took the shape of the void where the acorn nut would fit. I may well be wrong too.
 
^^ exactly my thoughts.
 
@NCFJ @GLTHFJ60 @S4Cruiser

From everything I understand I had the correct lug nuts. I had shanked lug nuts and washers. The washers fit the space in the wheel perfectly and the shanks of the lug nuts fit well in the wheel.
 
@NCFJ I’m not 100% sure what you mean by that, but if it looks like I was using acorn lug nuts I was not. They just got so eat up they appear that way. Originally the bottom of the hex head was flat.
 
Take off a rear wheel and take a photo of the lug nut seat. I am thinking that your wheels may have a bevel for an acorn style. If you were to tighten shank/flat washer lug nuts up to an acorn style I could see your results happening. I am just guessing here, hard to tell from just a few photos.
 
Take off a rear wheel and take a photo of the lug nut seat. I am thinking that your wheels may have a bevel for an acorn style. If you were to tighten shank/flat washer lug nuts up to an acorn style I could see your results happening. I am just guessing here, hard to tell from just a few photos.

Was going to mention the same...check your rear (hehe) tires and make sure they're good to go.
 
Yep, just because they're alloy doesn't mean they need shank/washer lug nuts. My alloy h2 wheels use regular lug nuts.
 
This is the style lug nut I was talking about

7802L-2.jpg
 
As far as I know all slot mag wheels use shanked lug nuts in the same style as mine. But I will pull a wheel tomorrow. If I remember correctly they are flat.
 
As far as I know all slot mag wheels use shanked lug nuts in the same style as mine. But I will pull a wheel tomorrow. If I remember correctly they are flat.

Important note ... even if the wheel is designed for shank (mag - style) lugnuts, the shanks come in different diameters AND lengths, also leading to the possibility it was the wrong nut for the job. My first guess is the shank was too long and bottomed out. The other possibility is the stud is too long and bottomed out in the lug nut.
 
Last edited:
Important note ... even if the wheel is designed for shank (mag - style) lugnuts, the shanks come in different diameters AND lengths, also leading to the possibility it was the wrong nut for the job. My first guess is the shank was too long and bottomed out. The other possibility is the stud is too long and bottomed out in the lug nut.
I had thought about all I that and the best I can tell none of it was an issue. But I will do closet investigating tomorrow. I think that if anything it is a stud issue because Ted had these wheels on his 40 using these lugnuts and drove it without issue.
 
I had thought about all I that and the best I can tell none of it was an issue. But I will do closet investigating tomorrow. I think that if anything it is a stud issue because Ted had these wheels on his 40 using these lugnuts and drove it without issue.

If those wheels were being run on a 40 there is a good chance he was also using spacers. Regardless, pull the rears ... measure shank depth vs depth of the hole on the wheel vs. stud length. If the wheels on the rear are secure, measure the front and rear studs to see if they are the same.
 
If those wheels were being run on a 40 there is a good chance he was also using spacers. Regardless, pull the rears ... measure shank depth vs depth of the hole on the wheel vs. stud length. If the wheels on the rear are secure, measure the front and rear studs to see if they are the same.
He wasn’t using spacers, but I do plan to investigate closely. I want to know exactly what the issue was.
 
If you were running the correct style lug nut, and they were still tight when the wheel got destroyed, then the lug nuts were too long, and bottomed out.
 
Back
Top Bottom