The Brown Truck - My 1982 Toyota Pickup

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40LandCruising

Anderson
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Threads
33
Messages
1,353
Location
Mauldin, SC
Well I’m pretty bad at build threads so that sounds like a great excuse to make one for my newest project. My current project and Daily Driver is a 1982 Toyota Pickup that I got from @HENDOG . I bought it because instead of being logical and replacing the HG on my 80 when I had a ‘new’ engine put in and having a reliable capable vehicle, I didn’t and decided older is better. Not to say the 80 isnt great, I’m just scared to drive one without a new HG after my catastrophic failure. So here it is, my pickup, or at least it when I first started work on it:

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The first hurdle was repairing the damaged wiring harness, 3yr ago the main charge wire shorted and burned through the entire harness. So after spending 3hr getting the doors open(locks were stuck) my buddy Jacob and I took apart the entire dash, cut open the whole harness, and pulled out and replaced all the burnt wires, and taped the harness back together.
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Once we got the harness repaired, with a quick carb clean it fired right up...and it chooched like a train. After driving it home from Hendog’s, (with one driveshaft bolt holding the rear DS to the TC, I discovered this later) I immediately started tearing the engine down.
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After tearing into the engine the results were bad, it needed a full rebuild with LOTS of new parts.
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Three months later the machine shop finally finished up my engine, after a one month build quote... but boy is she nice!
-Aftermarket topline Head (heavier casting) w/ bronze valve guides
-NPR pistons and rings .020 over
-King bearings
-OEM HG
-Aising water and oil pump
-Melling HD timing set
-crank polished
-block decked
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After getting the engine, I wasted no time installing it. My buddy Tyler and I installed it the same day I picked it up from his dad’s machine shop and got her running in the dark.
 
Once the engine was in the next hurdle was the carburetor, it turned out the Weber 32/36 wasn’t pushing enough gas for the slightly hopped up 4 banger, so in order to get it to school without eating the ringlands out of the Pistons, we loaded it up and trailered it down to Clemson two days after installing the engine.
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At the same time I learned about the lean issues, I also discovered the rear end was shot and that it had a later model chain drive transfercase, much to the disappointment of my dual case aspirations.
The oil from the rear end on a magnet:
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So in the past week I have begun fixing these issues, I got a jet kit for my carb and have been doing my best to tune it, I got a V6 8” third member out of a 2001 2wd 4runner and a spartan locker to solve my rear end issues, and have been attempting to install mechanical oil and water tenor gauges.
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Got the locker and V6 third member installed today. Discovered my shafts are on their way out, time for an IFS rear housing! Also discovered a diff has grenaded in that housing before
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After a battle that lasted a couple weeks I finally got my Autometer Autogage oil oressure gauge installed next to my water temperature gauge. I even used the fancy copper tubing for the oil pressure gauge instead of plastic. I also pulled the front transfercase flange off to re-drill it for a different pattern. And beat the studs out of it.
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After a battle that lasted a couple weeks I finally got my Autometer Autogage oil oressure gauge installed next to my water temperature gauge. I even used the fancy copper tubing for the oil pressure gauge instead of plastic. I also pulled the front transfercase flange off to re-drill it for a different pattern.
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Got the brake bar I needed today off a parts axle, and I got the whole drum re-assembled. I bled the rear brakes and then filled the rear axle with gear oil and changed the oil in the front diff as well. So everything is put together now, except my truck won’t start now. Not even try to turn over. I tried jumpstarting it to no avail. I will try and test the solenoid tomorrow.
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Had my battery tested and it was bad, got a new prorated one for $50 at Napa and it solved my starting issues. Got the carb tuned well and it everything worked great, till it wouldn’t start anymore. Tested the ignition switch, it was good. It turned out to be a disconnected trigger wire, easy fix! Just plug the spade connector back on to the starter and it fired right up. My next issue is to fix the charging system and I should be sitting oretty.
 
And the culprit of my bad charging system is the toasty alternator! I got lucky that there wasn’t another shirt like the original one that burned the whole harness up!

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i would think it goes back to your volt meter or Alt warning light on the dash. i also think there might be a couple wire connections in that area and that wire could have been connect to the wrong wire.

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